u/BFMGO13

Both 10 speed Deore.

Actually think there was a recall on the Trek.

https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2017/Trek-Recalls-Farley-Bicycles

Surly Pugsley - guessing 2010

Seller asking $250. Might offer 200.

First time truck owner. This thing rocks.

Can anyone help, or point me in the right direction to help set up these canti brakes?

Particularly the spring direction, and alignment of these plastic pieces. Normal vs SLR?

I took them apart to clean after stripping a frame and can’t recall how to put them back together on a different frame.

I tried to put them on another frame, tightened the bolts but they seemed to slip out of their position.

Not sure what exactly this was called…

Doable to fix on my own? I was hoping to see threads at the bottom and possibly just screw it back in.

Any YouTube video recommendations?

Don’t worry, my wife let me know what I left one of the doors unlocked last night before sending me this picture of her midnight escapades.

Had a kid 4 years ago and winter riding took a nosedive. Also our last few Wisconsin winters have been either mostly warm and melty or bone chilling as well.

Have a Ti Salsa Mukluk with 14 speed Rohloff hub.

Posted it for sale a couple years ago. Couldn’t sell it… still ride it a bit.

Price is down to $2,500 and getting interest and messages again… but I’m on the fence, and for that price, why not just keep it.

Any thoughts??

Best option? coping saw and try to saw the bolt in half?

The bolt just spins now. Can’t even back it out.

Just a free bike I’m trying to rebuild without putting money into it. All the components are in good shape just running into this pinch bolt issue.

After squeezing brake lever, the Brake caliper won’t open back up all of the way. The cable will lose tension (as pictured where it sits in the lever).

I have tried every way I can think to ensure the cable is fully taught when clamping down the cable at the bolt on the caliper. Have tried adjusting the caliper mounting bolt tension.

Cable seems to slide smoothly through the housing… maybe I just need new cable and housing… but still, when under tension the caliper won’t open back up all the way when the brake lever is released. When the caliper is removed from the frame I can squeeze it and it will return to pretty the same starting position maybe minus a millimeter or two.

Front brake works fine. All components were removed and cleaned… not sure if or how the caliper comes apart or if I need to try that as well.

Have heard mixed opinions.

Finding reasonable prices 2k is a pain in the ass and my current order is of course lost in shipping.

Painting a steel bike frame and need another layer of clear.

I need to sand away this entire section of paint/rust don’t I?

Got this neat looking 400 for free and after cleaning it up it’s in much better shape than expected. Except this one section…

Moving this drivetrain to a different bike, because, sure?

Chain seems too short?

Waiting on a new headset, so fork and cables aren’t installed yet.

The headset can still screw on… gets a little stuck over this section. Anything I can do to improve this at all?

Try to dig up the thread and trim it off?
Recommended tools?

Will of course wire brush off the spray paint.

Thanks!

1990 750… got it cheap but hated the beat up black paint with bright green decals.

Slow going project and still finding ways to slow it down. Head tube is sprayed White pearl.

Which side?

Start 8 position players.

Both teams competing.

https://www.wbay.com/2026/05/26/de-pere-police-search-driver-lightning-mcqueen-themed-car/

Sorry, posted from my wrong account.

Trying to fix for a friend’s kid. They have fallen a bunch.

This hanger is very clearly bent correct?

Which hanger is this called? The friend ordered one but I’m pretty sure it’s not compatible.

The derailleur was bent as well… the one in the picture is the replacement.

Have been trying to figure this fork out… my best guess is a Judy C.

I tried typing in the serial number but the Rockshox site can’t find it. Maybe I’m reading the serial number wrong: B11K007500

One of the videos suggests adjusting the top cap dials for the rider weight but doesn’t give any additional information. The top caps seem to spin/tighten endlessly with a subtle click but I haven’t noticed that it increases or decreases pressure.

Just to confirm with this that there is no true “lockout” correct?

Thanks!

I have never changed from a threaded to a non threaded headset before. Want to make sure this fork and steer tube will be compatible.

I would need to buy an unthreaded 1 1/8 headset, correct?

Didn’t want to pop the cups out until I knew for sure.