u/BinaryJay

As of right now, there is still zero mention of any bZ recall on Toyota Canada nor from Transport Canada. Has anybody in Canada actually been notified that anything needs to be done?

I don't know if it's just a run of bad luck, but over the last year the ride share vehicles that show up when I use them have been getting more and more beat up.

It seems cracked windshields, body damage, check engine lights, obvious mechanical problems etc. are getting more and more common. Sometimes they're straight up beaters. I paid Lyft extra once for a "newer, nicer" car and that thing looked like it moonlit in demolition derbys.

I never give these guys bad reviews or complain to the ride share companies and always tip because I know they're working hard to just try to get by with what they have but man... sometimes they are on the edge of feeling safe.

Is it just me?

Took the car out for a short drive on local roads this morning, 30C outside, sunny and climate on with just me in the car and not in ECO mode or anything. When I got back, my trip efficiency was 10.3 kWh / 100 km (almost 6 miles per kWh). Not much traffic, didn't hit every red light, and I restrained myself and didn't gun it every chance I got for once. Hardly a useful statistic for real world use but I was kind of excited to see the car pull it off being the least energy efficient bZ model.

At one point had an older bz4x driving behind me, the first pre-2026 I've ever seen in the wild.

What's your highest efficiency granny trip so far?

I'm not able to test this right now but here's an idea, if you have a battery monitor installed or just a multimeter give it a try and confirm what the 12V voltage does.

I know that remote start climate does not seem to bring the 12V to charging voltage, it seems to just float the 12V system to 12.8V when started for whatever reason.

But, it occurred to me there is another way of having the car turn itself on that doesn't require having room in the traction battery for active charging to take place - the battery preconditioning schedule which you can set to repeat on a schedule automatically. I imagine the intended use of this is to get the battery to optimum temperature during cold weather while sitting in the driveway and connected to your EVSE so that range isn't sacrificed heating the pack when you start driving.

If battery preconditioning fully activates the car to the point where the DCDC 12V charging kicks in during preconditioning you can presumably set it up to precondition the battery overnight every day. If you're plugged in it should just pull from the EVSE otherwise it will draw down the traction battery but I can't imagine that much. If it brings the 12V up to charging voltage this should maintain the 12V enough to keep the daily drain in check I'm guessing for as long as needed provided the 12V battery starts with a good charge and the battery itself is in good health.

If it works, it's not as good as if the car just monitored 12V and maintaining it as needed without having to run the heat pump to heat/cool the traction battery for no other reason but it might be worth doing if leaving the car for an extended period at an airport etc.

My wife drove off with the car this morning and I got a notification in the Toyota app as a "Vehicle Alert" saying "Maintenance Required - Vehicle maintenance is required. Contact your Toyota dealer to schedule a maintenance appointment".

I assume this is just the scheduled maintenance reminder but why the heck am I getting it when we've had the car less than 4 months and less than 600 km on the odometer? It should be 6 months/8,000km. Does that timer start when it leaves the factory or something, or is there some other reason this might pop up?

I'm going to wait until I can see what it says in the car myself before calling the dealer, if it's just the scheduled maintenance then it's easy enough to reset but it would be helpful if it actually showed scheduled maintenance reminders actually at the time it's needed going forward.

Edit: Dealer said it's because for some reason they did the PDI on my car a good while before I actually bought it (probably explains why I was able to get them to discount it a bunch extra on top of the 10K incentive at the time I bought it, funny because shortly after I bought it nobody could keep them in stock anymore), you'd think they would do PDI before delivery to the customer not when they take it into inventory but whatever I guess I will just reset it.

I've seen it said on here a few times, one case in particular where someone specifically asked if the 12V battery would charge if they remote started their car, that yes it would. Well, it doesn't appear to. I have an Ancel BM300 Pro battery monitor on mine to keep an eye on things after I replaced the battery it came with with a bigger better one. Twice now I've remote started the car and either looked at the live data before "starting" it after getting into it, or reviewing the logs afterwards. Both of these times, while the car was "started" but waiting for me to actually get in and ready it to start driving the voltage at the 12V only went up to a fixed 12.6V during the remote started state which is not really charging voltage. Once I actually put the car in ready state, it jumps up to 14.3-14.4V as you expect to see when charging.

Unless someone else can offer a different observation with remote start, mine seem to suggest that relying on remote start to keep the 12V system charged is a no go.

I'm curious what others 12V voltage sits at during normal use of the car, or even voltage over time looks like. After I got the low battery warning from 12V draining on our new car around a month after getting it, I just said forget it and put a bigger sized AGM in there and at the same time I installed an Ancel BM300 Pro battery monitor to keep an eye on what it's doing.

On May 3rd I hooked up a NOCO to the new battery and pretty much fully charged it manually ending settling at around 12.9V. Since then, even though the car has been driven a decent amount though shorter trips of 10-20 minutes each every other day or so, the voltage of the battery has steadily declined to 12.51V today. The car does charge it at around 14.3V but only for a very short time and quickly seems to reduce the charging voltage to around 13.2V or so which is more of a float charge so even with 15-20 minute drives it hasn't really been adding anything to the battery over time.

I need to monitor it longer to get the whole picture, but maybe there are two things going on:

1. For whatever reason the car just does not see the need to actually charge the battery at all until it reaches a pretty low voltage, but as it dips even lower will start to charge it more thoroughly keeping it stable at a relatively low SoC instead of trying to keep it more fully charged.

2. Around 0.1V of discharge per day doesn't seem normal, especially considering it's the bigger than OEM Group 47 size.

I have not tried to unpair the car from the Toyota app because I actually find it useful and I loathe to just throw away the service particularly during the time I'm not having to pay for it. But what else can I do? Is it really the app communication? It doesn't seem like force closing the app on the phone and making sure it's not running changes anything. Keys are kept a good 20 feet away from the car and I deleted the digital key.

So, anybody with a battery monitor or that can go and put a multimeter on their battery - what does the car actually maintain the battery voltage at for you?

I've received way more than 750 points between Bing and Game Pass this month, but no matter what I do the points total towards renewing Gold for me is just stuck at 500 of 750 and never increases no matter how many points I earn. Anybody else see this before?