u/Breakerbuilds

I got the remnants of a failed whoop build from a friend due to them purchasing a frame meant for larger motors on 2s, while running 1s motors on 5A. The key parts that I'm stealing are the motors, which are BetaFPV's 1102-22,000kv motors.

After doing a bit of research, I found the motors were meant for the Meteor series, specifically the Meteor 75 Pro with either the 04 or P1 units. Because I think it was safe to assume that even with the added weight of a digital VTX they had plenty of power, I was thinking it would be safe to assume that they could handle a slightly larger prop (from 45mm to 50.8, or 2").

2" props are what are currently on them in the first image with the frame, although they typically aren't great with quadblades, and the added weight of the stronger whoop frame (I think it was a Mobula 8) on 1s/5A (og Air series AIO) wasn't enough to get them in the air.

What I am planning on, is running the Twiglet 2 frame (less than half the weight of current frame, 1g-2g less than the Meteor 75 Pro frame), using the Matrix V2 AIO, pushing up to 18A bursts, 12A continuous (more than double the og attempt, same as Meteor builds), paired with a leftover C03 camera and a Air series canopy to minimize weight.

As for props, with my Air65, throughout my not perfect testing, I find biblades to be the best overall. Now hear me out; with larger quads (like 5") that have more torque, having more blades=better acceleration at lower speeds and more grippy flight. However, when you have micro drones that have little to no torque, running biblades seem to be best because that allows the motors to ramp up to max RPM faster than if it were to have more blades that would not allow the motors to spin up as fast. Because of this, I'm running biblades on my Air65, and will be doing the same on this drone.

If anybody has other recommendations/comments for future upgrades, lmk. I was simply trying to get a build that works with what I have, so it may not be the best, but will be open to upgrading in the future.

(Edit: idk if this drone will be 100% welcome here cause I guess technically it's not a whoop anymore, will be a micro drone 😅)

Hey!

So here's my modified Air65 (I kept breaking frames and didn't wanna get new ones so I removed prop guards and 3d printed supports, and it does work and flies way faster), and I flashed a different firmware onto it because I heard of the auto tune thing Betaflight is working on and wanted to try it on my micro drone instead of something going wrong on my 5".

I did this however, before I ended up bricking the flight controller because I didn't know the AIO had specialized firmware built for it cause otherwise the firmware would break it.

I ended up reflashing the firmware that's supposed to be on it from the BetaFPV website, and now have a functional flight controller, gyro, accelerometer, OSD, and VTX. Adding onto this, I got my controller to rebind correctly and was receiving all the correct inputs.

Then, when I tried to plug in a battery to fly to see if it was working, my controller no longer connected, and has the solid green light as shown. I've done everything from reflashing (again) to going through the downloaded ELRS Configurator in order to try to fix the ELRS Rx, with no avail.

If anybody knows how to fix the issue, that would be great. Otherwise, from my understanding, I can buy a nano Rx with a ceramic antenna to compromise. My mods that I did didn't decrease weight by that much, I think it was like maybe 1.5 grams, but it preforms so much better without the ducts and so I think it should be fine with an external Rx.

Hey!

I've become very interested in creating a tilt rotor VTOL recently as my friend is currently attempting a tilt rotor bicopter in the idea of the V22 Osprey configuration but without wings, and now I really wanna actually design and build my own VTOL, mainly cause I already have plenty of motors and servos lying around and have plenty of CAD knowledge along with knowledge of fpv drones and rc planes.

I will likely be assembling mine with foam board and carbon fiber spars for structural strength and rigidity for the VTOL part of the plane. I mainly need help with the following questions:

-I have an existing plane in progress, the Stormscout, which I'm not sure if anybody else has seen me post on here, that could in theory be VTOL enabled by having 2 props that stay within 30 degrees of vertical on the front and another on the rear that would be the main pusher. Would this be a reasonable/feasible plane to make, considering the size? It has a 500mm wingspan, would be running some smaller motors, 1806-3500kv on 4" biblades.

-The other idea I had, was to use some larger motors I have, 2004-3000kv for a larger plane that I would still need to model and design being something similar to your average tilt-rotor VTOL that you find kinda everywhere when you search for a VTOL rc plane. This would require more time and engineering than my current concept, but would it be worth it? I would get seller 5" bi-blades for it too to make it more efficient.

If anybody knows how to/has experience with VTOL planes that would be great.

Also if there's anything else I should know about firmware between iNav and ArduPilot for it that would be great cause I've only used Betaflight for FPV drones. I'm also considering putting a lidar and optical flow sensor along with GPS if that helps choose a firmware to run.

From @patrickfpv97 on YouTube, just came up in my Shorts feed (i get bored sometimes and every now and then insta isn't getting me what I want), is this battery in ok condition, cause it looks very misshapen. Just kinda found it funny and worth sharing.

My friend sent me this video and I deemed it worthy to post here. I can understand where he was coming from, as waypoints have typically been primarily a iNav feature or ArduPilot if you wanting to do allat. And as Betaflight has been kinda known for not having the best GPS, but not necessarily the worst GPS features out of the flight controller programs, and Betaflight's known for the racing and freestyle firmware/software.

I just found his reaction to adding it in funny cause I would definitely not have had said that.

So basically I got some Gemfan 51455 props (quad-blades), and snipped off two of them to get 51455 bi-blades.

From my understanding, this would make the drone go a lot faster, but instead only got it going about 3-5 mph faster at most. It gained only 1 min more flight time while cruising.

The other props I regularly use for freestyle are Gemfan's 5136 tri-blades, so my thought process was more pitch = faster, but with less blades = slower acceleration, so maybe I just need a more open area to test? Also I thought bi-blades were supposed to have way better efficiency, but maybe that only works if the blades are flatter/less pitch?

Idk enough about props to come to a conclusion but lmk if anybody has a idea why. Related parts to build down below if that helps.

-ESC: Blueson A2 70A

-Motors: Axisflying Bando 2207.5 - 1960kv

-Battery: Ovonic FPV series 6s 1300mAh

So basically I got some Gemfan 51455 props (quad-blades), and snipped off two of them to get 51455 bi-blades.

From my understanding, this would make the drone go a lot faster, but instead only got it going about 3-5 mph faster at most. It gained only 1 min more flight time while cruising.

The other props I regularly use for freestyle are Gemfan's 5136 tri-blades, so my thought process was more pitch = faster, but with less blades = slower acceleration, so maybe I just need a more open area to test? Also I thought bi-blades were supposed to have way better efficiency, but maybe that only works if the blades are flatter/less pitch?

Idk enough about props to come to a conclusion but lmk if anybody has a idea why. Related parts to build down below if that helps.

\-ESC: Blueson A2 70A

\-Motors: Axisflying Bando 2207.5 - 1960kv

\-Battery: Ovonic FPV series 6s 1300mAh

First 5" freestyle build... And it's 6s! I built this beautiful drone last Sunday, and it's the 3rd I've owned starting last December (6 months in).

​

Making the color scheme around the motors (Axisflying Bando, size 2207.5, 1960kv), I went with the cotton candy color theme, with 5135 HQProp's, and some pink TPU made it look really nice! (After first images 1-3 I added motor feet).

​

It had some unknown issues with the first flight controller (Sequre H743 V2, was receiving power via lipo, usbc connection wouldn't power, when powered via lipo, it would turn on cam, vtx, gps, Rx, and connect all successfully minus gps cause I cant receive readouts from anything, as the OSD and the main chip wouldn't boot, and there were no LEDs turning on. This was after a successful flight, so if anybody could troubleshoot that would be great, but I think the main processor got fried at some point), and so I bought a HGLRC H405 FC that has worked perfectly so far, if not better than the Sequre one.

​

Other than those issues, its been great! I'm planning on running the old GoPro Hero 4 Silver in a day or two once I'm more comfortable with the sheer power of it, then the RunCam, as in a limited space I got it to 97mph. Parts list down below!

​

The drone:

-Frame: Mario5 DC (SpeedyBee)

-ESC: Sequre Blueson A2 (6s, yes there is a 8s variant)

-FC: HGLRC H405 6s Race

-Motors: AxisFlying Bando (2207.5 - 1960kv)

-VTX: HGLRC Zeus Pro/1.6W (whatever you wanna call it, the red slab)

-Camera: RunCam Phoenix JB Edition

-GPS: HGLRC M100-Pro

-Rx: SpeedyBee ELRS Receiver

-Props: HQProp 5135 (pink and blue)

-Battery: Ovonic FPV series 6s 1300mAh

​

Gear:

-Transmitter: Radiomaster Pocket (Transparent)

-Goggles: Fat Shark Echo

-Charger: SKYRC B6AC Charger

​

Tools:

-Smoke Stopper: ViFly

-Iron: Hakko

​

Let me know if there's any other questions!

First 5" freestyle build... And it's 6s! I built this beautiful drone last Sunday, and it's the 3rd I've owned starting last December (6 months in).

​

Making the color scheme around the motors (Axisflying Bando, size 2207.5, 1960kv), I went with the cotton candy color theme, with 5135 HQProp's, and some pink TPU made it look really nice! (After first images 1-3 I added motor feet).

​

It had some unknown issues with the first flight controller (Sequre H743 V2, was receiving power via lipo, usbc connection wouldn't power, when powered via lipo, it would turn on cam, vtx, gps, Rx, and connect all successfully minus gps cause I cant receive readouts from anything, as the OSD and the main chip wouldn't boot, and there were no LEDs turning on. This was after a successful flight, so if anybody could troubleshoot that would be great, but I think the main processor got fried at some point), and so I bought a HGLRC H405 FC that has worked perfectly so far, if not better than the Sequre one.

​

Other than those issues, its been great! I'm planning on running the old GoPro Hero 4 Silver in a day or two once I'm more comfortable with the sheer power of it, then the RunCam, as in a limited space I got it to 97mph. Parts list down below!

​

The drone:

-Frame: Mario5 DC (SpeedyBee)

-ESC: Sequre Blueson A2 (6s, yes there is a 8s variant)

-FC: HGLRC H405 6s Race

-Motors: AxisFlying Bando (2207.5 - 1960kv)

-VTX: HGLRC Zeus Pro/1.6W (whatever you wanna call it, the red slab)

-Camera: RunCam Phoenix JB Edition

-GPS: HGLRC M100-Pro

-Rx: SpeedyBee ELRS Receiver

-Props: HQProp 5135 (pink and blue)

-Battery: Ovonic FPV series 6s 1300mAh

​

Gear:

-Transmitter: Radiomaster Pocket (Transparent)

-Goggles: Fat Shark Echo

-Charger: SKYRC B6AC Charger

​

Tools:

-Smoke Stopper: ViFly

-Iron: Hakko

​

Let me know if there's any other questions!

Bruh I didn't even crash that badly, compared to others I've done at least.

4" quad, I basically was just cruising around with a transmitter I've never used, being my friends Zorro, cause I broke my Taranis X9 Lite right stick and want to get a different one anyways, cause it's a used and abused transmitter from another friend, and am waiting on a Pocket to arrive. Because the Taranis's sticks are larger, I think I overcompensated on the roll and went into the ground. What I dont understand is how this drone fell from like 50 ft up after I hit a branch into concrete and just bent a prop, while I do this one thing from like 6 feet up and now the while motor is cooked.

Cause I like these motors and they're cheap, I'm ordering another set to replace this one so I can also have some backups.

Anybody know how this happened?

So basically I've been looking into doing a 3d printed nerf build for quite a while now, and while looking into u/AshtonRogers 's Drawn Line blaster, I found a link on Printables for the hardware kit on a website called AK Blaster Mod.

I'm curious about them because I've never heard of them before, and yet they sell their kits for on average 60% the price of other shops, like OOD does. For example, they have MHP Vulture kits for only $44 with ~$14 shipping for where I live (both in USD). Comparing this to OOD, it's about half the price of their hardware kit, which seems insane to me. They also have blaster kits like the Smiley and SLAB for ~$30, which again is about $50 on most other websites that I know of.

The main thing I wanna know is if they are trustworthy or not and if they actually provide quality, consistent parts (idk, I've never built one before, but I've heard things like needing to post-process some parts to be compatible with the blaster).

If anybody could provide any info about them that would be great! Looking forward to doing more in this hobby, especially if it's a good shop for that cheap.

Lore: charger and cord were gifted from friend as he got a new one this last Christmas, and I got my first FPV drone then. Last week, the XT60 on his cord managed to break loose of the leads, not allowing me to charge, and I didn't need to charge until today, when I, with my shitty ass soldering iron ($10 on Amazon) decided it would be a great idea to use these dischargers I never used cause they don't work, break the end off of one, and solder on the wires for them. I know that this works cause I may or may not have had used one other one of these to form a XT60 -> XT30 plug for my FPV drone cause I couldn't find a better one.

Working on a foam board remake of a project I've been working on for a bit, Project Stormscout, failed a 3d printed version, moving to foam board.

Anyways- I need help transferring the remade sketch of the plane onto a PDF/image in a format that would allow me to print it out, in a similar way that the Flight Test SPONZ Index (may have to download file to view in the format I'm mentioning) provides them so I can easily make it, and remake it as needed.

If anybody has any info on how to do so, that would be great!

Hey y'all! Completed the CAD remake for the Stormscout, and only thing left is to make sure motor mount, servo, and other mounts are good to go before I gotta figure out how to swap it to the format FT used for their builds.

Fits on one single piece of 20"x30" foam board, so the plane itself is $1.75 depending where your buying from. (For me, I get mine from Dollar Tree, and have bought a sheet for under $2).

Exactly 500mm wingspan. Have tested a heavier 3d printed model, and flew (hand tossed) really well with correct weighting. 1 motor, 2 servo, couple printed parts, flight controller/Rx as preferred, built for FPV, optional CF rod for wing support, but we'll see how strong the wings really are when built.

Any questions/recommendations/feedback greatly appreciated!

My 4" now 3.5" drone now has 6 blades per motor. Total of 24 blades. My friend had the idea that since tmount use just your typical M2 screws, I could just get longer ones and put them on. Later today imma try it out with my terrible 3s batteries, I'm hoping to order some 4s in the near future, but then again I'm likely getting a 5" build in about a month and will be needing some extra $$$ to repair and do some minor stuff upgrades on it, so we'll see.

I also wanna get a radiomaster pocket so that may come before anything else, but if it comes down to it I'll likely order some batteries off of Amazon first.

Hey y'all, it's back. I tried to do a 3d printed micro FPV wing about 4 months back, with the constraints of it being under 250g and 500mm wingspan, but that didn't turn out too well, as it was really hard to get strong, structurally sound prints, while still being within weight goal, mainly for the fuselage as honestly the wings were great. (Just for the record, I did get it to fly well from a hand toss with the correct weighting)

Now, I'm back (after about 4 different FT foam board planes) and am reattempting the project, without the 3d printing constraint, and not taking the weight aspect too seriously now that I've bought my registration tag and still keeping it under 20" wingspan (bit over 500mm) while CADing and modeling my own plans similar to the ones FT produces and makes public on the SPONZ Index. I'm starting by re-CADing the whole thing with roughly the same dimensions, but an doing it to be more angular so you can cut sharp edges and have a overall cleaner build.

Here's my current progress:

Currently have the overall wings and fuselage modeled, may have to make the fuselage thicker then the original design though because there's only an inch of vertical space inside compared to the model where there was 1.5" of space.

There will still be 3d printed parts due to structural support via a carbon fiber rod, and hoping for the wings to not fold in half, along with the motor mount, and other electronics, which I will be attaching to the finalized plans for the plane so people can alter the mounting holes/dimensions. If enough people request it I can also attempt to model laser cutting files for the parts, but I wouldn't expect them to work as well as the printed ones (Don't go into it thinking the models will be cleanly designed, my CAD process is atrocious)

I'm actively working on integrating the building process that FT uses, like the slotted parts so the pieces line up nicely while assembling, and is overall a lot easier to build.

Contrasting to the previous model, I've now spent a lot more time in the FPV hobby of drones, and now have gained knowledge on how electronics like flight controllers work, so one of the things I'll also be working on is a way to integrate a flight controller, GPS, and your basic analog system (no digital cause I don't got the money) into the plane in a attempt to get iNav to work (I *really* wanna try out RTH, along with auto launch, although this may be a stretch for a bit cause I only know Betaflight).

If I can do it right, I should also be able to fit it on the basic 20"x30" foam board that I think is the standard from what I can tell that most people use, although I'm not making any promises on that.

Electronics:

FPV Drone-style flight controller, with at least 2 extra UARTS not including receiver, cam, and VTX (I'd go 2s-4s)

2x 4.3g servos (will likely make models for others)

Motor of your choice (I'd stay on the smaller side because it's mounted on the rear, and it's a swept back wing, so having weight farther forward is better)

2s-4s brushless ESC

FPV camera (analog, digital if your good with doing some custom modeling)

Analog VTX

ELRS or desired receiver (swap to ELRS tho if you haven't lol)

2s-4s battery, make sure compatible with FC, ESC, and motor, something like a 650mAh-850mAh would likely be optimal

Specs will be updated in the future after construction and testing have been done.

Any feedback is welcome!