Finally got some decent clips of some attempts of my crappy track of chalk lol.
The sct forces discipline on throttle and man is it fun but hard to control sometimes.
The truggy loves the stay planted and turns so well in the corners.
Which one do you like and why?
Dismantled every millimeter of the truck. Could use some new grease, but overall seems “new” behind the dirt and scuffed parts.
I get it. It’s stock with hacking mods and missing the carrying handle things on each side.
I seriously gotta know, did they just not put inserts in the tires on this model? I wonder do I have the long chassis? I want to setup as 312-313mm wheelbase eventually , or I’ll figure out how to build ground up.
The 11 overnight hours? Yea no joke. Started working around 9 pm and didn’t finish until almost 8:30 this morning. I spent 2 hours trying to figure out how the links go in the front axle, bc it’s not standard 4 link. First time seeing that strange bar setup but yeah idk how retarded I am to spend 2 hours just trying to figure that out for the links lol. NO GOOGLE, I wanted to test my intellect, and I did better than I expected, never called “SIRI” lol.
I’m a natural tinkerer, since I was 4 years old my mom would tell me I could take something like this apart any time, and try to put it back together but I wasn’t sober or sane last night so let’s be realistic.
Installed a light controller I ordered for a scx24 4Runner body light mod I was gonna do but got rid of the micro, now I have a 1/10. Rock lights are hooked up to it so when I turn the wheel twice, the Rick lights come on😏 eh? Yeah I like that concept without a light dongle switch or whatever auxiliary adapter.
If you seen my last post about first tackled mods, someone said do a overview, well I think I did too much, but now I know how to comfortably build a 1/10 crawler chassis from nothing but screws lol.
I’ve had this ZD Racing RX12 for a while now and figured I’d share my experience because I don’t see a ton of real-world info on these. I got mine for free, so I’ve basically had nothing to lose by beating the hell out of it and seeing where the weak points are 😂. I’ve run it on pavement, dirt, grass, drifting concrete/hardwood, crashing, etc., and honestly I’m pretty impressed with how much it has taken.
I’ve broken the front and rear control arms, bent front shock tower, rear dogbones, and damaged the diff/hub cup area. I also found that the stock wheel hex setup can leave more play than I like, so I went with wider hexes to get the wheels mounted properly. None of that really makes me think the platform is hot garbage however; most of this happened from me intentionally pushing it way past what I probably should have 😂.
The drivetrain situation got especially interesting. After damaging the rear setup, I swapped the front CVDs to the rear and the rear hub cups to the front, leaving it without rear dogbones and effectively turning it into RWD. And the damn thing still scoots. I actually had it ripping around in 2WD before finally deciding to rebuild it properly.
I’ve repaired everything I can instead of throwing the car away, and that’s probably what I like most about it. It’s become my “let’s find out what breaks” car, and every failure has taught me something about the platform.
At this point I actually like the RX12 enough that I want another one. 😂 I’m looking at either the Rlaarlo XTS-P12 or Dikavey RX12 as the next one, and I’d like to start fresh with everything I’ve learned from abusing this one and actually tune/build it properly. And respect it…
So for anyone searching ZD Racing RX12 / Rlaarlo P12 / Dikavey RX12 and wondering if these are worth messing with: my free RX12 has been damn near a science experiment, and despite everything I’ve broken, I’d still buy another one.
What have you RX12/P12 owners managed to break? Or what would you upgrade/modify first on a fresh build?
Accidentally drove into some muddy clay and we’ll… deep clean through and through. Got this from a trade, so getting to eyeball everything that’s not brand new, was pretty cool.
Found a few issues, shock tower mount is cracked above wheels bar, esc heat sink has completely separated from the esc lol. Esc fan bearing shot and doesn’t spin at max rpm. Traxxas aluminum shocks springs rubbed into all of the axles also. Servo saver is rough looking, not sure how long that will last.
And what’s up with all the ball end joints being so stiff on plastic buckles? Shocks too. I cleaned everything in tap water so we will all expect some rust to show bc I didn’t take the screws out of their homes… whoops… however it should look new when I’m done. I’m tapped out tonight..
Just sharing some faults I found, because how in the absolute dern does the esc heatsink just pop off? And btw, traxxas used WAY TO MUCH conformal coating that it is between the heat sink fins. Bummer.
Chow
Not many people own this rally clone rc.
Dikalvey rx12, zd racing rx12, and rlaarlo xts-p12 are all the exact same with different bodies. Zd racing has 2 pinions out of box that I know of. Seems like the other 2 just have a 21t pinion rtr.
I’m curious who out there does own of these models, and what parts have broken, you’ve bought and from where, and if you need any help with yours.
Out of the box the adjustments are all wrong, control arms droop too low and cause the dog bones to bind into the drive cups from differentials. Adjusting the small screw located on the lower control arms will help set the proper ride height.
I have found that the front cvd axles fit perfectly in the rear to replace the dog bones. Less chattering metal and you gain longevity from the rear differential and cups.
I adjusted my upper control arm turnbuckles to get even tire wear, looks like I went too far, (out of box the camber is too far inward).
Also added on some slightly thicker 12mm wheel hexes, however I sacrificed the threads for wheel nuts. Must use loctite or they fall off lol.
This chassis setup is sick.. I’m getting the dikalvey rx12 clone and getting mixed parts to repair my zd rx12. Later I’ll add on a 23-25 tooth pinion and see what happens.
But for all the abuse I put my rx12 through, constantly adjusting mesh, all gears look immaculate compared to how fast I’ve destroyed other gears and rcs. So if anyone looking for a good rally rc, this rx12 is sweet.
I’ve had it about a month and only broke control arms immediately when I got it. Last owner had binding issues with rear axles but too late for me, chewed the cups slap out. I saved it from worse damage, but it’s still damaging. I plan on getting this new rx12 clone, repeating everything I did to my zd rx12, plus swapping out rear dog bones for front cvd axles. Then imma send it, and hope it lasts me more than 6 months without needing anything more than bearings and tires, and well the batteries.
Chow
Watch the video at high volume, don’t have to be max, just listen to the gears hum like a monster. The last clip , I lost a wheel nut doing a speedy corner run lol, I was mad af when I seen the tire roll faster than the car, and then heard the knuckle scrap the concrete 💔🤦🏽♂️
Has anyone gotten this? Have you put aluminum on it? Where’d you get it if you did? I love this thing. Ran it on a hwy shoulder and barely could keep up with 55mph traffic which makes me believe it’s running between 50-53 mph! I mean the thing comes with the speed gear, but as many times that I’ve flipped, crashed, over revved, I mean you name it, only thing I’ve broken off the chassis is 2 control arms are the hinge joint, which I glued and bought time to find aluminum. Very very very solid Amazon buy, however I got mine for free which is why I’d like to find aluminum.
I stripped a wheel hex on those tires and I’m sad. I picked this up and it had a 3s system installed. Super quick on the 13t. I wanna find some things to make it handle well, and also do over 70. Thanks
2005 Ford Exploder 4.0L Limited. Has about 170,000 miles. Here we go….
Timing rattle, very common.
No reverse, again, common.
No air conditioning, probably clutch failure, haven’t diag yet.
Intermittent dash cluster failure, this is also kinda common
Low tire tread, good enough for me however.
Sway bar bushing missing all corners. Haven’t got time.
Factory subwoofer/ JBL LEGEND 700 CarPlay radio (my fav)
Amber pods for secondary fog lights, factory work as well.
Has weird brake light sensor twitch, letting off makes it flicker.
Reliable ….. was for me for about 6 months. I paid $1750 for it as is with misfire and constant limp mode (crank pulley about cracked due to loose crank bolt: diabolical) as now it drives well, has very little power, and sounds like shit on start up. Backfires a lot, and in reverse during misfire it smells like straight fuel. I love the truck and want to spend $5,000 flat out and do all repairs myself but I don’t have the time or that money. But I need to get out of it so I can get a job and go to trade school at the same time, as I cannot do such a thing with low power from engine and I live right off a 55mph hwy so… I am by myself as far as resources and other vehicles so 🤡 help this clown somehow. Atleast give it a price tag in your opinion.
I have a scx24 133mm wheelbase for now. I want to replicate my truck I guess, I don’t own a Bronco and that’s the body I bought to start with. This photo is my 2005 exploder. I’d like to replace the Bronco body with either a collectors metal body, or a plastic hobby kit. Anything leads to sites, small business creators, or anything??? Thanks chat!
Just thought I’d share some clips I got today of my Bronco. Forgot my other batteries in someone’s truck so I was stuck with the stock spektrum battery lol. Didn’t last long.
I remember someone was curious if my side hill capability so maybe this can do some justice or show proof to see how it reacts. It’s mostly stock besides shocks.
UPDATE: I found a 155mm on injora, and a 313mm on eBay. Thanks guys
I’m looking to get this kind of body in the future but I always see integy pop up every search run.
I need the 313mm wheelbase hardbody jeep xj version. Not proline. TIA
Axial SCX24 Crawler
Motor:GAC RACING 1621 Sensorless Brushless 3500kv (w mount)
ESC: Furitek Lizard 132 Pro with live telemetry
Receiver: STOCK ESC/RX COMBO (getting radio link)
Transmission: Hot racing aluminum case & YEAH RACING gearset
Servo: EcoPower 827 (and EcoPower brass servo mount)
Fundamentals above 👆
NON ELECTRONICS ⬇️
Shocks: Injora 43mm double barrel shocks (friction)
Links: STOCK
Axles: STOCK
Chassis: STOCK
Wheels&tires: STOCK
Everything else is stock that you would think of, got blown bearings if that counts lmao. Only things I’ve done is body trimming and lighting mod for taillights.
Sooo….. what do yall think so far? Should I post an action vid too? Thanks in advance all!
The red 0603 micro litz are the bulbs I’m going with, the other bulbs are for replacing the headlights with same or different color (might not even purchase) I’m focused on the teeny tiny ones.
So, red for tails and brakes, they have other colors, white for reverse and amber for turn signals. I’m not going to explain how I will modify them into a build (scx24 4Runner body kit (unpainted)).
I am on the hunt for a light controller, headlight, taillight, brake light, reverse light, and turn signals/markers. I found one from MytrickyRc but it is an “always on” kinda thing. I’m looking for ch1 (steering) AND ch2 (brakes and reverse lighting) instead of just ch2 options. I found a couple but they’re upscale for 1/10. I found mytrickyrc but am not satisfied with the output of their product.
I need a small light controller that plugs into ch1 PLUS ch2 ports on RX, whilst having adapters to still plug in servo and esc. I want the controller to simply operate headlights (low brightness), taillights and brake lights, reverse lights, and have turn signals. I will have 2-3 bulbs in the rear light housing, and adding an addition to the front housing for front turn signals.
It’s gonna look cool if I can find what I need, I can atleast have it looking sick with always on light, but I’d like them to function.
I am a beginner and just got out of research but I’m coming to you guys for the more broad research within the ecosystem.
After hours of fiddling and redoing some layouts, I got it dialed for how stock it is. YES ITS VERY UGLY AND IT WILL GET BETTER OVER TIME. Only monetary upgrades ⬇️
Furitek lizard 132 pro esc ($85)
GAC Racing gm1621 v2 3500kv brushless motor ($23)
Next I’ll get a new radio, and reciever. I’m trying to settle electronics first, as they run the rc. If I buy axles or wheels; etc, then I might still have electronic issues which I’d dislike so chasing electronics first.
I have a eco827 servo but I was unaware when I bought it that I would need a new mount. So, I can’t install it yet. I’ve had this scx24 for about 3 months now, I drive it mostly everyday. Longest OOC was about 2 weeks while waiting for new motor. I’m honestly highly surprised with the stock radio electronics. The transmitter is giving out and the reciever is glitching the servo, it’s been 3 months… consistent driving. That says a lot…
I know my build looks goofy as all get out, but this is what I got going on, I’m waiting to find parts like axles and shocks.
In the last 2 pics it’s showing some cool flags for a course. The pink circling around the sticker shows the line where you fold to make it a flag you know? I would put it together but not today lol.
GM1621 V2 Brushless motor
Aluminum CNC motor mount for scx24
Sticker
2 course flags
(Accidental spare motor mount) oops $10 ain’t nun tho.
Install level? Prebeginner lol, it’s just as easy as anything else man.
I had to move the battery sideways so it didn’t rub in the outrunner.
MY BUILD ISNT DONE NOR PERMANENT, so please don’t advise me anything related to how my setup looks, you can recommend anything else but don’t critique my build when it’s not done. I spent al day testing and tuning the motor and app just to find out my transmitter or receiver is faulty (glitching) and I’m replacing them both.
Questions? Comments? I’m not sure what’s allowed and what’s not so I’ll let the thread carry itself. I need more things to share about it but not sure what’s all to do to be helpful to someone else that might want to do this same setup install.
This montage thing on here was nice for these clips. Enjoy!
I’m going to upload photos following this post of the motor and mount and blah blah. But here’s some action on the new motor. Follow along for next post to get motor specs and blah blah lol.
I am so friggin amazed by this. However it has informed me that the stock transmitter/reciever is no longer compatible for me. Going to upgrade soon.
Before you guys see the other post, or see this post second; what do think of the running ? Keep in mind it’s choppy because of my remote. But it’s so smooth and way slower than a 030/050 on the top end side but loads of slow torque.
I seen a thread someone was looking for thoughts on parts and battery chargers, and potentially batteries as well. I’m making this post to show what I run, as a beginner. The black batteries are 18650 (obvious) but they’re basher batteries. Those batteries included the chargers which is shown as a single charger with no batteries. The batteries above the black from left to right 350;1000;1600;1600;1800 2s packs. All of them are 2s but only the top 5 I run for my crawler. I only reference the black batteries as they came with chargers. I also don’t own a lipo bag or pouch or anything so make fun of me if my house goes in flames ok guy? Thank you. Also, I added another photo with one of the 1600mAh batteries. The 1800 is the same size battery. I get about 45-60 minutes of run time without lights, 30-45 with lights.
So, now I’m curious what everyone else is running? Let’s share some info for the beginners and give everyone else insight on brands, quality, longevity and let’s help each other. I have own all of these batteries in the post for almost 2 years and only one battery, (with the connector cut off and tied to it on the right bottom black battery) doesn’t charge anymore. And it’s not because I cut the wire, it’s been dead awhile. Thanks guys, and you’re also welcome at the same. 🙃