Just thought I’d share some clips I got today of my Bronco. Forgot my other batteries in someone’s truck so I was stuck with the stock spektrum battery lol. Didn’t last long.
I remember someone was curious if my side hill capability so maybe this can do some justice or show proof to see how it reacts. It’s mostly stock besides shocks.
UPDATE: I found a 155mm on injora, and a 313mm on eBay. Thanks guys
I’m looking to get this kind of body in the future but I always see integy pop up every search run.
I need the 313mm wheelbase hardbody jeep xj version. Not proline. TIA
Axial SCX24 Crawler
Motor:GAC RACING 1621 Sensorless Brushless 3500kv (w mount)
ESC: Furitek Lizard 132 Pro with live telemetry
Receiver: STOCK ESC/RX COMBO (getting radio link)
Transmission: Hot racing aluminum case & YEAH RACING gearset
Servo: EcoPower 827 (and EcoPower brass servo mount)
Fundamentals above 👆
NON ELECTRONICS ⬇️
Shocks: Injora 43mm double barrel shocks (friction)
Links: STOCK
Axles: STOCK
Chassis: STOCK
Wheels&tires: STOCK
Everything else is stock that you would think of, got blown bearings if that counts lmao. Only things I’ve done is body trimming and lighting mod for taillights.
Sooo….. what do yall think so far? Should I post an action vid too? Thanks in advance all!
The red 0603 micro litz are the bulbs I’m going with, the other bulbs are for replacing the headlights with same or different color (might not even purchase) I’m focused on the teeny tiny ones.
So, red for tails and brakes, they have other colors, white for reverse and amber for turn signals. I’m not going to explain how I will modify them into a build (scx24 4Runner body kit (unpainted)).
I am on the hunt for a light controller, headlight, taillight, brake light, reverse light, and turn signals/markers. I found one from MytrickyRc but it is an “always on” kinda thing. I’m looking for ch1 (steering) AND ch2 (brakes and reverse lighting) instead of just ch2 options. I found a couple but they’re upscale for 1/10. I found mytrickyrc but am not satisfied with the output of their product.
I need a small light controller that plugs into ch1 PLUS ch2 ports on RX, whilst having adapters to still plug in servo and esc. I want the controller to simply operate headlights (low brightness), taillights and brake lights, reverse lights, and have turn signals. I will have 2-3 bulbs in the rear light housing, and adding an addition to the front housing for front turn signals.
It’s gonna look cool if I can find what I need, I can atleast have it looking sick with always on light, but I’d like them to function.
I am a beginner and just got out of research but I’m coming to you guys for the more broad research within the ecosystem.
After hours of fiddling and redoing some layouts, I got it dialed for how stock it is. YES ITS VERY UGLY AND IT WILL GET BETTER OVER TIME. Only monetary upgrades ⬇️
Furitek lizard 132 pro esc ($85)
GAC Racing gm1621 v2 3500kv brushless motor ($23)
Next I’ll get a new radio, and reciever. I’m trying to settle electronics first, as they run the rc. If I buy axles or wheels; etc, then I might still have electronic issues which I’d dislike so chasing electronics first.
I have a eco827 servo but I was unaware when I bought it that I would need a new mount. So, I can’t install it yet. I’ve had this scx24 for about 3 months now, I drive it mostly everyday. Longest OOC was about 2 weeks while waiting for new motor. I’m honestly highly surprised with the stock radio electronics. The transmitter is giving out and the reciever is glitching the servo, it’s been 3 months… consistent driving. That says a lot…
I know my build looks goofy as all get out, but this is what I got going on, I’m waiting to find parts like axles and shocks.
In the last 2 pics it’s showing some cool flags for a course. The pink circling around the sticker shows the line where you fold to make it a flag you know? I would put it together but not today lol.
GM1621 V2 Brushless motor
Aluminum CNC motor mount for scx24
Sticker
2 course flags
(Accidental spare motor mount) oops $10 ain’t nun tho.
Install level? Prebeginner lol, it’s just as easy as anything else man.
I had to move the battery sideways so it didn’t rub in the outrunner.
MY BUILD ISNT DONE NOR PERMANENT, so please don’t advise me anything related to how my setup looks, you can recommend anything else but don’t critique my build when it’s not done. I spent al day testing and tuning the motor and app just to find out my transmitter or receiver is faulty (glitching) and I’m replacing them both.
Questions? Comments? I’m not sure what’s allowed and what’s not so I’ll let the thread carry itself. I need more things to share about it but not sure what’s all to do to be helpful to someone else that might want to do this same setup install.
This montage thing on here was nice for these clips. Enjoy!
I’m going to upload photos following this post of the motor and mount and blah blah. But here’s some action on the new motor. Follow along for next post to get motor specs and blah blah lol.
I am so friggin amazed by this. However it has informed me that the stock transmitter/reciever is no longer compatible for me. Going to upgrade soon.
Before you guys see the other post, or see this post second; what do think of the running ? Keep in mind it’s choppy because of my remote. But it’s so smooth and way slower than a 030/050 on the top end side but loads of slow torque.
I seen a thread someone was looking for thoughts on parts and battery chargers, and potentially batteries as well. I’m making this post to show what I run, as a beginner. The black batteries are 18650 (obvious) but they’re basher batteries. Those batteries included the chargers which is shown as a single charger with no batteries. The batteries above the black from left to right 350;1000;1600;1600;1800 2s packs. All of them are 2s but only the top 5 I run for my crawler. I only reference the black batteries as they came with chargers. I also don’t own a lipo bag or pouch or anything so make fun of me if my house goes in flames ok guy? Thank you. Also, I added another photo with one of the 1600mAh batteries. The 1800 is the same size battery. I get about 45-60 minutes of run time without lights, 30-45 with lights.
So, now I’m curious what everyone else is running? Let’s share some info for the beginners and give everyone else insight on brands, quality, longevity and let’s help each other. I have own all of these batteries in the post for almost 2 years and only one battery, (with the connector cut off and tied to it on the right bottom black battery) doesn’t charge anymore. And it’s not because I cut the wire, it’s been dead awhile. Thanks guys, and you’re also welcome at the same. 🙃