u/Clean_Breakfast9595

Looking for a section of the install manual/verbiage that makes it clear this woven corner look method with the shake lap siding is not allowed. I've read through multiple times and am struggling to find anywhere it says this is it isn't allowed. My LP certified, higher bid contractor decided to do something unprecedented and I don't love the look and I would've just preferred the corner going to the roof, but because the PM claims he asked me and I said it was okay, and this project has stretched on way longer than it should've, they are refusing to perform any additional work outside of the original scope (which is bs, because the original scope explicitly states mfg guidelines will be followed). I'm also skeptical that them continuing the lap LP shake from the Hardie without additional flashing is not compliant. I expected a starter strip and band board.

Also, how high or low above where the box will be mounted should I drill the holes in the studs?

Long story short, the wall covering is going to be 3 in out from the currently exposed framing. How do I leave the Romex and boxes for the contractor so they can lay the wall on the framing? What boxes do I use considering they will be mounted flush with wooden trim blocks?

For lack of a better description, imagine the wall put on those studs is going to be 3in thick solid wood.

If I consider everything like this as being punch list worthy, I'm going to be treated like a huge pain in the ass... But conversely, this entire work was remediating hail damage lol.

Current plan is to use leftover siding material on the interior of my porch, already worked into the bid of my contractor.

Climate zone 5a, upstate NY, room conditioned with a mini split, sloped ceiling with 5in closed cell spray foam.

ignore the AI diagram, here is a textual version:

[ fiber cement siding ]

[ taped 3/4 EPS foam ]

[ taped ZIP ]

[ 2x6 wall + 3-4 in closed cellspray foam ]

[ taped ZIP ]

[ taped 3/4 EPS foam ]

[ fiber cement siding ]

These are only the two walls that are exterior.

The two interior walls are going to be the same zip, EPS, fiber cement from within, but with instead fiberglass under straight wood paneling, 2x4 framing then additional wood paneling or drywall (or both) outwards toward the adjacent room.

Already had the sill plate around the perimeter of the house replaced sitting on the field stone. But this part just confuses me.

First few photos are taken from the perspective of my covered porch:

a cavity in the wall of my covered porch that bridges the original house/dining toom (on the left), the living room that is an addition that connects my original house to the garage (to the right), the addition that bridges a second story addition and the lofted area above my living room that connects to my garage (above), and my crawlspace (below)..

There was a fire like seventy years ago about. No records that spell out any remediation done.

Most of the charred wood is solid beneath the char. The rotten floor joist I can see from in the where all the horizontal stuff in that wall cavity seems to sit, sits on a field stone wall and is mortise/tenon jointed to a opposite direction beam.

One pic is from a recent renovation where I had the house taken down to the framing.

Idk if it's possible one of these additions/structures is taking some of the load off of those parts of my framing. A bit too broke ATM to afford a structural engineer. Pics at the end are from the attic. Last pics are from the basement.

Just trying to overlay the top step where the sleepers are currently oriented to get some height back now that the door frame was installed.

I was going to put sill gasket under the sleepers, tapcon them down and then install the picture frame on top of it. I definitely want to leave a gap because the siders are going to bend aluminum for that area under the door frame..

Any tips?