Any of you with around 400whp and more torque what brake upgrades are you using? My car stops okay but I want a little more bite. Wondering what I could do that doesn’t involve spending thousands.
On the 8th gen euro model civic, is mileage tampering easy? Found a low mileage I want to buy. MOT history checks out however in some years it has only done 100miles which is suspiciously low but otherwise just looks like a normal old car. If I could verify it’s legit, it could be a good deal. How is mileage usually tampered on this car? Is it easy? How do you make sure it is not tampered with?
I have used two main VPN providers now and I have found that most websites have some kind of list of VPN ip addresses so they block them or force you to continuously do captcha (like google). Is there a way to determine the best IP address to use which hasn’t been banned or flagged or reported as a bot yet? I’m finding this increasingly is the case in many places.
Does anyone with N54 have logs I could look at with VANOS channels logged? Trying to troubleshoot an issue.
Should’ve said in title this is for N54. Can’t change it now after posting.
Could I request if someone could show me their logs with the exhaust and intake VANOS? Especially after full boost and then lift off? Thanks.
I’m new to rust/tauri and trying to debug some code and learn at the same time. When I use println!(“result of arp -a” {:?}, ARPresult);
I get no error messages and no print outputs. I then searched and found someone mentioned debug! Macro and that doesn’t exist. Could someone point me in the right direction please?
It is something to do with unit tests capturing the output and I’m not sure what that means especially because I’m writing a tauri app.
This is on Linux/Lubuntu.
I’m making a controller for my home where I’m trying to use armbian on a cheap SBC (libre computer). I would like my distro to login the user and then start the app I have made automatically. I can start googling things like “how to remove splash screen”, “autologin”, “full screen app start” and then implement what I find.
My question is, is there any other distro more suited to this kind of IoT/home thing? Is armbian okay for this kind of thing? Should I look into embedded Linux? Any other tips would be appreciated thanks.
I think my engine needs new cam ledge on the exhaust side. I have changed the solenoid to a new one and it’s triggering the 2A87 code even more with the new solenoid. Always seems to happen on overrun/lift off so I think it’s losing pressure required to keep the VANOS system working.
I have read that some people (BMW techs) have simply replaced the seals with Teflon seals and it’s fixed the issue without new cam ledges. Two accounts where someone has had thicker seals machined from PTFE rods. My logs show the exhaust side is tracking less tightly at acceleration than the intake side. Up top it looks fine. So perhaps my cam ledges aren’t that bad yet. I was wondering if I had seals machined from a quality PTFE rod and had the OD made 0.1mm thicker if that would work. Has anyone else done this and it worked?
The ledges used to be a £50 part which is now £500+ so dont blame me for trying to consider some hacks before I buy new ledge tray 😭
Over the last three years and 40,000 miles my N54 has thrown 2A87 code 3 times and 2A82 code once.
1 week after replacing exhaust solenoid, I get the 2A87 exhaust VANOS code again.
These codes come when it’s very hot outside and I’m really pushing the car towards redline. It has happened in summer only. Does this point towards the cam ledges being damaged/worn? I think my friend once did clean the VANOS filters like 2 years ago. I could try cleaning them again or use thicker oil for now. Is there anything else to look at before committing to changing the ledges? The codes are thrown so randomly and so rarely that I can’t even diagnose the problem. I can redline the car all day long and it mostly won’t throw a code.
I use 5w30 oil. Can’t remember if it ever threw any of these codes with 5w40. It also tends to happen when it’s been like 2-3000 miles since last oil change. I’ve never run low and change oil every 4000 miles.
After the last time it happened I filled it with about 300mL of engine oil and I was pissed with the car so I ragged it. 2nd and 3rd gear hit rev limiter. Found open empty road and 4th gear pull then shift. 50 miles of beating and not even a hesitation, the car actually drove better during abuse. My engine oil level is always showing full, it surely can’t be low engine oil?
Over the last three years and 40,000 miles my N54 has thrown 2A87 code 3 times and 2A82 code once.
1 week after replacing exhaust solenoid, I get the 2A87 exhaust VANOS code again.
These codes come when it’s very hot outside and I’m really pushing the car towards redline. It has happened in summer only. Does this point towards the cam ledges being damaged/worn? I think my friend once did clean the VANOS filters like 2 years ago. I could try cleaning them again or use thicker oil for now. Is there anything else to look at before committing to changing the ledges? The codes are thrown so randomly and so rarely that I can’t even diagnose the problem. I can redline the car all day long and it mostly won’t throw a code.
I use 5w30 oil. Can’t remember if it ever threw any of these codes with 5w40. It also tends to happen when it’s been like 2-3000 miles since last oil change. I’ve never run low and change oil every 4000 miles.
Got a code for exhaust VANOS. Exhaust solenoid is the bottom one right? And top is intake?
Is the N55 from 2014 onwards in F series cars (including M135i, M235i and 335i) stronger than the first iteration in E series (E9x) cars? What’s stronger about it? I know the M2 N55 has some forged internals. In the F series cars is there still a risk of oil starvation when cornering very hard?
I have a BMW E90 which uses a McPherson strut and a double pivot front suspension. I changed the standard tension arm (the most front bit) and the rear control arm to BMW M3 E9x parts.
I changed these parts in steps and changed the front suspension’s rear control arms last because it’s the part which definitely needed alignment. Everything was fine until I changed this last control arm. It’s made so that it’s slightly longer than the standard control arm so that it pushes the bottom of the wheel outwards therefore introducing more negative camber.
Alignment got done. Now at low speeds (<15mph) the steering won’t self centre but self centres fine at higher speeds. At low speeds the steering also kind of wants to keep turning. At very high speeds on crap roads the harsher bumps make it feel like the road could turn the steering wheel, a bit like bump steering but you can maintain control of the car with little but not negligible effort.
Isn’t what I’m experiencing a symptom of too much scrub radius? Is it possible due to these longer lower control arms introducing more camber they have increased the scrub radius? Even though the kingpin or SAI angle should’ve moved with the contact patch centre line. The kingpin axis on this type of suspension is simply top strut mount to lower ball joint of lower control arm, so by moving the lower ball joint of the lower control arm more outwards, it should’ve adjusted this angle correctly so that it maintained the original scrub radius.
The thing which confuses me is, after the change, my toe-in was nearly 2 degrees and the steering was even worse where when you were turning the steering really put good effort into wanting to keep turning. It sort of points me towards toe being the issue rather than scrub radius?
Do I have a remedy other than changing the control arms back to standard? This is a popular mod to improve handling and I don’t see many people complaining about it. It has definitely helped a lot in cornering. Usually people get -1.0 to -1.5 degrees camber but somehow my car has ended up with -2.0 degrees camber.
Any of you here put M3 arms in the front of your 335i? I only did the front and my car is great in cornering but the road really affects the steering. What’s your high speed feel like? I’m talking about 160-200kmh (100-120mph) the steering feels kind of unstable like the road can turn it when the surface is old and uneven. I’m thinking of switching back unless something is wrong with my setup. I have about -2degree camber on the front. I don’t know if the M3 has a different steering ratio which negates this or what’s up with my car.