Gentlemen,
What's the preferred method for treating rust? I know when to cut it out and patch, I'm talking anything from flash rust to pitting that can be treated. I just tried wire wheel, which was awesome, and Ospho on a nasty rear axle and wasn't super impressed. Is the consensus Por-15, or is there something else folks use to keep rust from coming back.
I came off active duty back in January and transferred to IMA with a mid-January R&R date. Would I still need an AT this year because of my service in fiscal year 25, or is my R&R date controlling?
I currently work as a 1099 contractor full-time and pay estimated quarterly taxes. However, I also have a military reserve position with about a month worth of work annually. On the W4 for the military pay, how should I complete the multiple jobs section?
Can anybody tell me how to login to UTAPs? I'm fresh off AD to IMA and the website just spins. I've read to try AROWS-R, but it also doesn't work from the links I've found. Just trying to learn how to do my FY26 orders.
Looking for some advice before I move on with this cleanup job. Got this 8.8 with some light surface rust and a little pitting here and there. I’ve already stripped it with a wire wheel (not pictured) and want to make sure this will be a good plan from here:
Naval jelly
Baking soda and degreaser
Primer
Paint
1992 Ranger XLT, 3.0 Vulcan bogs down on a cold starts and eventually stalls if you don’t give it some gas. Voltage and oil pressure swing pretty wildly until it settles, and then it runs fine.
I’ve had to replace the fuel pump and filter for unrelated reasons, cleaned the IAC and all the grounds I can find, but problem hasn’t changed. Any thoughts?
Just like the title says. Listing straight up says subframe is toast, but had the guy send over pictures for the rear axle and it honestly doesn't look too bad for $100. For reference this is Western PA.
I'm planning out my 302 swap on my '92 Ranger (2WD) and want to crosscheck the chatgpt before I pull the trigger on anything. Truck currently has a 7.5 rear axle with drum brakes. If I can help it I'd like to avoid fabricating new mounts for an explorer axle, so a Ranger 8.8 seems like the way to go.
Is there anything I'm missing as far as fabrication or pain in the ass work on a Ranger 8.8?
Is it necessary to upgrade to disc brakes if I do get the Ranger 8.8? For reference, it's just a hobby truck for driving in the warm weather, so nothing too crazy.