Rebuilding a 1977 c4 using this kit: https://www.jegs.com/i/jegs-555-62108-transmission-rebuild-kit-for-1970-1981-ford-c4?srsltid=AU7gw4WA-NgpR\_QMmggkEljFZvTgayN4N3-MHjIIG45CaC8\_ozviVj1c
Are there any other mandatory replacement parts not here? I’ve read the following but want to made sure: band locknuts, thrust washers, all bushings, and vacuum modulator.
Getting ready to teardown and rebuild a c4 out of a ‘77 pickup. I’ve done plenty of auto work but first time working on a transmission. Any advice on common mistakes, replacement parts, etc?
I'm near indy for work so I got myself a ticket to Sunday's game, but my plan is to drive into Indy on Saturday night and head home (about 6 hrs) right after the game. Any advice on where to stay that isn't $200 for one night and how to not get my bags stolen out of my car while I'm at the game?
Traveling for work so I thought I’d get everyone’s opinions on a second project. Currently have a 92 Ranger fully mapped out for a 302 swap. Have all the drivetrain parts ready for rebuild but long road ahead when you add electrical, some rust patchwork, and all the odds and ends.
But I also have a pole barn just waiting for more projects…looking at a 72 Mach 1 assuming the underside isn’t complete toast, but looking at the cowl drains and a few other spots it might be a lost cause and it’s a 302 so not as exciting as it could be. Other option is a 72 Opel GT that’s about midway through a rebuild. Pros are that all the parts are there, engine runs and no visible rust, although I’m assuming at least the belly pan is cooked. I think the price on both is reasonable for what they are. Just curious everyone’s thoughts on getting a second project and these two cars in particular. (I love them both btw, just looking for input and possible downsides.)
Anyone aware of gaming shops that carry hex and counter games. I’m traveling through Ohio and Indiana for work but never see anything but warhammer, etc.
Have this 302 out of an 86 f-150 that’s going into my 92 ranger. Bought it off a guy whose dad used it as an around town truck, pulled it with 75k miles to swap for something bigger. I was originally planning a full teardown to measure for boring, honing, etc, but the more I read the less I’m sure that’s necessary, although the carbon buildup might say otherwise. This is my first engine build so any advice would be great. Happy to post additional pictures if that’d help too.
I’ve finally got my office finished and would really like to get Third Reich setup for a solo play through after having it on the shelf for a few years. I’ve seen various rule summaries on bgg but does anyone have advice on the best version or how best to digest this monster?
I've tried sending my IDT schedule out to my supervisor a few times but it never shows up on their end. They mentioned their may be some kind of glitch with an invisible submission button. Does that ring a bell for anyone?
First time trying to submit IDTs since joining the reserves and I keep getting this error message. I've built 24 total IDTs in two chunks (Sept and Nov) but still getting this message.
Gentlemen,
What's the preferred method for treating rust? I know when to cut it out and patch, I'm talking anything from flash rust to pitting that can be treated. I just tried wire wheel, which was awesome, and Ospho on a nasty rear axle and wasn't super impressed. Is the consensus Por-15, or is there something else folks use to keep rust from coming back.
I came off active duty back in January and transferred to IMA with a mid-January R&R date. Would I still need an AT this year because of my service in fiscal year 25, or is my R&R date controlling?
I currently work as a 1099 contractor full-time and pay estimated quarterly taxes. However, I also have a military reserve position with about a month worth of work annually. On the W4 for the military pay, how should I complete the multiple jobs section?
Can anybody tell me how to login to UTAPs? I'm fresh off AD to IMA and the website just spins. I've read to try AROWS-R, but it also doesn't work from the links I've found. Just trying to learn how to do my FY26 orders.
Looking for some advice before I move on with this cleanup job. Got this 8.8 with some light surface rust and a little pitting here and there. I’ve already stripped it with a wire wheel (not pictured) and want to make sure this will be a good plan from here:
Naval jelly
Baking soda and degreaser
Primer
Paint
1992 Ranger XLT, 3.0 Vulcan bogs down on a cold starts and eventually stalls if you don’t give it some gas. Voltage and oil pressure swing pretty wildly until it settles, and then it runs fine.
I’ve had to replace the fuel pump and filter for unrelated reasons, cleaned the IAC and all the grounds I can find, but problem hasn’t changed. Any thoughts?
Just like the title says. Listing straight up says subframe is toast, but had the guy send over pictures for the rear axle and it honestly doesn't look too bad for $100. For reference this is Western PA.
I'm planning out my 302 swap on my '92 Ranger (2WD) and want to crosscheck the chatgpt before I pull the trigger on anything. Truck currently has a 7.5 rear axle with drum brakes. If I can help it I'd like to avoid fabricating new mounts for an explorer axle, so a Ranger 8.8 seems like the way to go.
Is there anything I'm missing as far as fabrication or pain in the ass work on a Ranger 8.8?
Is it necessary to upgrade to disc brakes if I do get the Ranger 8.8? For reference, it's just a hobby truck for driving in the warm weather, so nothing too crazy.