u/Drinkle85

trx4m upgraded to 4mt and trx4mt. Brushless, low gears and two speed in the one. Built to try make scale monster truck stadium race track, but work better as crawlers. Needed way more space than I thought for jumps, and the driveshafts are a little fragile.

Some weighted wheels might plant it better, maybe a big bumper to balance forward a bit too.

A little tippy with the diecast body on there, but it’s still pretty fun to try find the line that works. Easier without trying to film it.

Big brushed 775, 3s 5000 lipo, heavy wide 3.2 mt tires. 12mm wheel hex, plastic driveshafts. I see no problem here. lets goooo!

Just tuning em up to make them crawl better. Only one stripped screw and some better placement of upgrade parts, and things are running much better. Overdrive on just front axles now(were both on the jeep), tightened one loose axle, and my 6x6 got some weight below the diecast body with brass skid and metal transmission.

The 6x6 can now downhill and not tip forward, has better throttle control, and the Jeep is better with less metal unbalanced parts and slower rear tires more controlled with better balance.

Just as much fun as I remember, 10/10 crawler basher build. I can’t believe it’s not broken. Gonna have to try a few more batteries.

Old maximizer 3.2 17mm hex , and custom adapter to 12mm and blue washers, and old hpi savage ss gt tires. Still my favourite wheels, they were discontinued when I bought them. I believe most of this kits parts have been discontinued as well by now. That’s ok, just charging it up. Gonna see if it’s still a 10/10 most fun monster truck basher crawler build like I remember it.

My all time aws is a little tippy on the downhills, back axle just not helping, randomly just sends itself upside down the other way, going to need 3ch soon to lock it out. Maybe needs more weight added on the front axle or just skinny rims wide axles so its footprint doesn’t articulate so much. Just can’t cross this bridge. So frustrating, makes it no problem first try every time, and then crashes for several batteries. The sleeper stock k10 handles so much better.

This 1/50 diecast service body is too awesome to sit on the shelf, can barely zoom in on the details. Just needs one screw hole, and adjust the stick on body clips and glue the hood onto the cab (already done) and trim the fuel tanks to fit (already done). Switch the axles and switch the motor wires in the connector. I left some plastic on the rear of the service truck, it could probably be trimmed nicer. But they are an easy fit on there. Going to need the cat service truck soon, hmmm...

Mostly using stock axial scx30 parts. Went with scx24 transmission, it fit nice and saved a body mount at the back. The scx30 transmission was going to hang pretty far out the side. Just have the scx30 axles with driveshafts pushed on, front are just antenna tube and heat shrink, a little glue on one side to hold it lined up with the driveshaft yolk at the pivot point. Needs better alignment it rubs a little bit. Used antenna tubes on a few other builds and havent had much trouble. Built a through axle with a drill press and some music wire. Installed stock scx30 servo and saver and a loader bucket linkage fit there nice with some bending. Just a little weak, will see if higher voltage and glue in place helps, or it will need a bigger one. Just brainstorming ideas for bucket lift action now. Screw type would have much more power, but it will be a challenge. And will require some time to figure it out.

Making progress on the 1/50 diecast rc loader conversion.

Got a lot of rc trucks. Gonna need a lot of rc parts. Can’t mod just one. Gotta mod em all.

Just little mods so far. Rebuilt transmission with dry bicycle chain lube not grease, shaved down edges on skid plate, bronco wheels, faster axle gears, shorter front shocks and springs trimmed for max droop, shorter rear springs for droop as well. Body clips in under the mount at the back to sit lower and the rear fits real nicely tucked in.

Everytime crash everywhere.

AWS Jeep turning turned way down, with k10 tires on, and bronco tires on top with string and heat shrink tie downs. Couldn’t decide on which tire set matched so they can both match on there now.

Huina 1583 pros-

-more bucket angle control, aux power attachment(not sure if it’s on the new version), tooth bucket, smoother control on throttle for detail bucket work

cons- they don’t make the attachments. needs mods to get arms to go down all the way, slower, needs more power and traction and turning, axle stalls easy and the other spins, solid mounted axles, wider slower turning, less lights/sound, times out and powers off, smaller bucket, louder mechanical motor noise

EE e592 pros-

-faster on the controls in every way, quieter on mechanical motor noise, easy battery connection, has a horn, better sounds and lights, starter and stops and restarts after sitting from controller, pivots rear axle, more traction and power 50% less axle stalls. turns and loads trucks way easier and satisfying, arms go up and almost all the way down, cool beacon options, bucket angle levels as arms raise, larger bucket. more modular construction, a bit easier to take apart and work on

cons-

Jumpy on throttle makes slow detail work tricky, smaller tooth bucket would be better for level cutting control. bucket tilts when arms raise tricky when riding up stock piles and dumping on top.

Scx30 modified for center axle, my trial process. Third one I’ve made so far. Wasn’t careful and busted it pressing my crimped shafts in there, twisting to get it further. Drilled both sides and pressed in a second shaft. Maybe thread lock would be more reliable and easier. Crimps bend the shaft and I put them too far back. If they slip I will try take it apart and just use one piece. It’s gonna be a struggle though I think it will work as is. The plastic driveshafts ends press on tough and hold tight, haven’t had any trouble with my two other center axle builds.