u/Educational-Guard408

I know the specs ask for 4 50 pounds of torque on the hitch ball. I tried tightening it his best I could, but the best I could do is 300 foot pounds. Is that enough? The lock washer is completely flat and I can’t turn it anymore, and I can’t tighten it anymore on the workbench. This is on a true track Curt weight distribution hitch. I heard I can put it on the receiver and tighten it on the car. Can I do that and not damage the assembly? I’m worn out. This would’ve been easier before I lost weight!

I towed it home on Tuesday. First thing I realized was that my mirrors don’t extend out far enough. Ordered mirror extensions for Etrailers. I got my weight distribution hitch and realized that I don’t have a torque wrench or socket to fit the nut. Thought it was 1.75 inches. It’s 1 7/8. New socket coming Sunday. Installed the window shade on the door. Easy install. Ordered a spare tire from local tire shop. Jayco wanted $800! I got it for $160. Bumper bracket cost $40 off Amazon. Local dealer parts shop is a ripoff. Going to try to avoid them for anything other than warranty service. Found the water pump. It was under the bed, covered by plywood that was screwed down. Wow, there’s a lot of stuff to buy after getting the camper!

Just got a Jayco slx 130 rd. Since I visit dark sky locations, I need the interior lights to be red. Does anyone have a source for the bulbs and a link to them? Thanks.

I just picked up a new Jayco SLX 130 and got his home. Actually backed up all the way into my driveway which was 100 feet long then I tried to unhitch. The hitch won’t come off the ball. I have the release lever up, but it’s lifting the car. I tried putting in a neutral with the E brake on no luck. I tried pushing forward and back and trying to get to release. It’s still not working. Do I use a crowbar or does someone else have another idea? It’s cool that I got a new camper. And it’s cool that I backed the trailer up all by myself. And I didn’t hit anything!

I will be towing my new Jayco slx 130rd with a 2014 4Runner. The dry weight of my car is 2500 lbs, fully loaded, 3300. What would be a good weight distribution hitch for this rig? Also, the camper takes a 2 inch ball. My typical trips are around 4 hours with about half that at highway speeds. Thanks.

I camp at a site that only has 110/15-20 amp pedestals. Will a 30 a to 15a adapter with surge protector be sufficient? If I go to a full hookup event site and need a 30 a surge protector, is there one that has minimal lighting. The watchdog unit has a logo that lights up and that would be frowned upon at a dark sky reserve.

I finally bought my first camper, Jayco Jay Flight 130 rd. With bells and whistles, $15,800. Pickup next Thursday.

I’ve decided on the Jay Flight SLX RD, 2026. They list retail at $25406, but a discounted price of $11891. What would be a good first offer from me to them?
This is my first RV, tired of tents!

Hi guys. I’m new to the group. I’m looking to switch from tent camping to a small camper. I’ve been camping with tent for over 25 years across the northeast US, mostly Pennsylvania. I’m an amateur astronomer and I’m retired. I’m using a 2014 4Runner. The local event dealer has new 2026 Jayco Jay Flight SLX 130’s for under $12k. What do you think about these. A side note: I currently only camp at Cherry Springs State Park in northern Pa. It’s a 4 hour ride and there are several miles running through the mountain roads with some steep grades. So I want to keep the load light. Any suggestions or alternatives for campers? Thanks.

M101 at F/4, taken from Cherry Springs State Park

My 4 panel mosaic of the North American Nebula.

This is my first time imaging the Pelican Nebula. All previous setups had too small of a field of view.

Here is my image of Andromeda, 4 frames each made from 10 subs of 20 seconds each. It was almost dawn so the image quality suffered a bit. Taken with my Carbonstar 200 at f/4. ASI 2600mc pro.

After a 2 year wait because of weather and health issues, I finally made it to my go to dark sky destination. The G11 performance was great once I realized I hadn’t pushed in the power cord securely. The targets over 2 nights were M101, The Pelican nebula, and 4 panel mosaics of Andromeda and The North American Nebula. Images to follow. Going home tomorrow.

Some weeks back I posted that I had issues sending prints through Orca and KC-bridge to my Kobra X. I got them resolved tonight. Apparently the machine profiles from the Kobra X didn’t connect. But the profiles listed under Orca profiles for Kobra X did. I imported the filament profiles. But the general settings for quality, speed, etc are not available. Might have to look for them.

I have been struggling to print TPU with my Kobra X. I was constantly getting clog errors even though there was no clog. I finally got the suggestion to turn off clog detection. And things seem to be working as I print Sunlu TPU and a temperature tower. Are there any downsides to turning off detection?

So, WellCare, my Part D insurance provider changed the formulary and switched me over from Tresiba to the generic of Lantis, Insulin Glargine. I’m also taking Mounjaro 5 mg, and Metformin ER 750 x2. On Tresiba my morning sugars were 80-110. Now they are typically above 140. And by 3pm they used to be closer to 120. Right now they are hovering around 200. I asked my doctor for advice. I suspect that he will increase the Mounjaro to 7.5. But I just got 3 months of it at 5 mg. Don’t you love insurance companies?

I’m struggling to get kx-bridge to start. I have the Kobra x in lan mode, ran the extract credentials script, and started the kxbridge software. I got a bunch of German text but the configuration panel never started. I tried connecting to local host:7125, my local ip:7125, but nothing works. Access denied, even with firewall off. Tried in chrome and Edge. Same result. I tried on my phone too. Can’t get the panel to show. Any thoughts?

Got my Kobra X assembled and connected. Only issue I had was clipping together the latches on the filament holders. Had to squeeze them together with pliers to make them click. I sent a support ticket to Anycubic. And yes, I made sure the little tab on the bottom was in the slot.
I had to use the Anycubic slicer because Orca doesn’t have a selection for this printer yet. Anycubic found a firmware update. I applied it. Printed a flat sheet. I’m in the process of printing temperature tower now. I only have black pla right now. Red is coming Sunday. Otherwise it all seems to be working.