Hi guys, I was wondering. Anyone know where the hell I can get one? Or mine repaired? Also the plastic housing on mine quite literally shattered after staring at it for a few seconds when I thought about pulling it out.
Also what’s the best way to test to see if it still functions properly? Mine won’t take keys. Not sure why but no codes outside of my hardwired fan.
C6 Seat Installation Guide for C5 Corvette
Step 1: Unbolt the C5 Seat
Unbolt the seat from the vehicle floor (four mounting nuts/bolts).
Tilt the seat back carefully to access the wiring underneath.
Disconnect the main battery before working on electrical connections to avoid triggering airbag codes or short circuits.
Step 2: Cut Harness Zip-Ties
Snip all zip-ties securing the factory wiring harness and the C5 driver seat control module to the seat frame so the harness can be handled freely.
Step 3: Disconnect Connectors
Disconnect every single electrical connector underneath the C5 seat, separating the harness from the motors and switches while keeping the module attached to the harness trunk.
Step 4: Remove the Harness and Module
Completely remove the detached C5 wiring harness and control module assembly from the old seat. (Keep this module intact—retaining it is what preserves memory seat functionality and the telescoping steering wheel column).
Step 5: Extend the Ground Wire
Locate the thick black ground wire on the C5 harness.
Splice a new, high-quality wire into it, ensuring it is long enough to comfortably reach the C6 seat connector without tension.
Step 6: Extend the Power Wire
Locate the thick orange power wire on the C5 harness.
Splice a second new wire into it, making sure this extension is also long enough to reach the C6 seat connector.
Step 7: Splice Additional Functions
Splice into any other feature wires you want to retain and carry over to the C6 seat (e.g., seat heating elements, lumbar support circuits).
Important!!!!: Do not completely sever wires running directly into the C5 module; use tap splices or strip-and-solder techniques that maintain continuity to the module.
Step 8: Attach Pin Connectors
Crimp female pin connectors onto the newly spliced ends of your extension wires.
>!Pro Tip:!< For an OEM-clean look, find the matching opposing factory connector housing so the C5 and C6 harnesses plug together like factory components.
Step 9: Connect and Secure the Wiring
Plug your newly pinned C5 wires directly into the matching slots on the C6 seat harness.
Neatly bundle and secure all wiring underneath the seat using zip-ties so nothing dangles or gets pinched by the seat tracks.
Step 10: Final Installation
Drop the C6 seat into the C5 cabin, plug the main seat and steering connectors into the floor, and bolt the seat down.
Enjoy your quick, easy, and relatively painless seat swap! Not sure why every other guide was so damn overly complicated.
But it is WAY easier than what people made it seem to be.
Biggest issue I’ve seen and read, is that people tend to chop wires off and have the module be completely cut out and have it not be able to read the seat movements which causes faults. When it comes to the data portion of the seat when wanting memory or steering controls, it bugs out because it gets 0 data.
TL;DR : splice into the c5 module and harness. Don’t cut the wires out fully and everything will work as is with no issues. Don’t overcomplicated it.
EDIT: Forgot to mention. Polarity for the switch has been reversed. Outside of the forward and backward button being swapped. It still functions as “normal”. Every function the car came with still works.
After ordering about 15 times the last 5 months. (Yes. I’m an addict). I finally got magnets. Though, I am still at 3/15 orders which bums me out. I guess that’s what happens after you go hiatus with not ordering for a while.
That being said, anyone here know how I can brown via phone browser and not have to tap my damn way back into the closeout section? Drives me INSANE.
Hi everyone! Recently took out my entire tail light harness. Every single wire on the left side was essentially rotted/spliced with shitty wire. Every single one corroded and literally fell apart as you touched em.
That being said. I now have all 4 lights and turn signal bulbs and back up lights and license plate lights working and I also eliminated the ground pack.
But a new issue popped up. The third brake light, middle light long line in the rear blinks when I use a both turn signals, not sure if it’s meant to or not. Can someone confirm?
The right turn signal works. The left turn signal makes the “clicking” noise but none of the lights work with the signal nor does the gauge turn signals light up for the left. None of the lights in the front or the rear work with it either but they do stay on. All the lights work.
TLDR: Left blinker won’t turn on with the gauge blinker light nor does it cause any of the lights to “flash” with it. Right side works. Middle third brake light blinks with flashers.
Anyone here know any aftermarket parts or replacements for the center console (floor portion) of the c5? Mine is cracked. The entire thing is. The center console towards the dashboard is fine but the actual arm rest is shattered to bits. Along with the base and it’s driving me crazy. I want to replace it with something that’ll last and not another OEM piece.
Hi guys! Brand new 2001 C5 LS1 4L60E owner here. Been working on JDM/Motorcycles but never any American stuff. Specially with a big ol v8. I started working on a Cherokee and the deal on this rat chewed Vette was too good to pass up.
Anyone know how many harnesses there are and which controls what?
Rats got to the harness and not really sure which harness is which and what it does. I know I need an “engine” harness and probably a “front”? harness, as the headlights do not work at all nor does the ABS or any active component pertaining to traction and suspension control and so far with the research I’ve done, its tied with the headlight harness?? Also what’s the difference with the front ABS/EBCM harness vs the rear ABS/EBCM harness? Are they both needed or trim specific?
Also I’m currently firing 5/8 cylinders. Will do a leak down test asap and a compression test. But she sounds amazing and starts right up even on 5/8. Physically see chewed up spots on the driver side close by the 2 non-firing cylinders so it makes sense. Right passenger side was filled with toooo much pine needle to even see the harness.
With all that being said. Which harness should I replace first? The transmission harness seems to work fine. I’ve yet to test the brake lights and tail lights since I have no one to help me with that.
But I got every single light on the dash and the only codes I consistently get are these two: P0300 random / multiple cylinder misfires and P0481 for the fan 2 control.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
TLDR: Need help prioritizing which harness to replace to get the car running and driving and what the harness is.
Hi guys! Brand new 2001 C5 LS1 4L60E owner here. Been working on JDM/Motorcycles but never any American stuff. Specially with a big ol v8. I started working on a Cherokee and the deal on this rat chewed Vette was too good to pass up.
Anyone know how many harnesses there are and which controls what?
Rats got to the harness and not really sure which harness is which and what it does. I know I need an “engine” harness and probably a “front”? harness, as the headlights do not work at all nor does the ABS or any active component pertaining to traction and suspension control and so far with the research I’ve done, its tied with the headlight harness?? Also what’s the difference with the front ABS/EBCM harness vs the rear ABS/EBCM harness? Are they both needed or trim specific?
Also I’m currently firing 5/8 cylinders. Will do a leak down test asap and a compression test. But she sounds amazing and starts right up even on 5/8. Physically see chewed up spots on the driver side close by the 2 non-firing cylinders so it makes sense. Right passenger side was filled with toooo much pine needle to even see the harness.
With all that being said. Which harness should I replace first? The transmission harness seems to work fine. I’ve yet to test the brake lights and tail lights since I have no one to help me with that.
But I got every single light on the dash and the only codes I consistently get are these two: P0300 random / multiple cylinder misfires and P0481 for the fan 2 control.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
TLDR: Need help prioritizing which harness to replace to get the car running and driving and what the harness is.
Hi guys, I thought my NSS switch was going bad. So I tried to bypass it but to no avail. I took apart the fuse box and grey connector to make sure it was bypassed. It refused to start. I wish I had a spare relay but I do not sadly. It does however not even click when the key is turned. But no matter which relay I use (of the same kind) the issue persists.
Could it be a bag ignition switch? I have a spare one but I don’t want to deal with the headache but I might end up having to
Anyone here have any clue with fabricating a whole new interior dash? I hate the way the ‘99 interior looks. I want to achieve modern lighting but have it look like the late 80s Jeep. The interior in the ‘99 Cherokee is severely cramped.
Finally got a transmission after people ghosted me so many times.
Anyone here know or recommend anything with the transfer-case and transmission? Specifically maintenance wise? And dumb it down a bit please. New to the entire 4x4 scene. Coming from single turbo rotaries and motorcycles🤣
Anyone else here know where I can mount the intake? I want a spare battery in the current intake box spot. Wanna make use of it. The intake sitting there huffing the world’s hottest air seems like a waste of space. Also seen some cowl intakes but I’d rather not compromise the seal between the firewall and interior of the already dwindling waterproofing.
Anyone here have any out there/weird intake builds?
Anyone here ever did just the line leading into the cooler? Pretty consistent but slow leak, but it’s only at the very beginning of the lower cooling line.
Any ideas on if I should replace the entire line or just the connector?
Anyone here replace their dome light with something else? Mine is all cracked and brittle. Replacements cost too much, was wondering, maybe salvage MOBO and wiring and retrofit like an LED panel light maybe?
Anyone done that before? If so any tips?
$750 2000 Cherokee xj 4x4 that works. Drives and runs. No title. Should I get it as a donor and sell off all the parts I don’t use? 🤔
Hi guys, my stupid self completely forgot to copy the template of the OEM carpet that I so happily cut out. It real bad due to a leak and probably unhealthy mold, breathing was hard when you were inside.
Anyone here know the square footage of the front passenger area? I was going to measure it but I can’t find my measuring tape it is down pouring outside. I was thinking getting an 80” x 108” carpet roll.
The rear I think I’ll be rhino lining and the front I will be redoing with carpet. I know ACC makes a pre-molded version you need to cut in yourself to get the perfect fit but I want to be as cost efficient as possible for the sake of my wallet and the sanity of my wife 😂, and I also like learning new skills so upholstery seems fun now that I’ve done the headliner.
Thank you all in advance!
I got new front brake pads and rotors. Entire ZJ steering upgrade, 4WD axle, and a lucky bonus OME steering damper that has 0 issues outside of being coated in a ton of dirt. Anyone have anything else in mind I should swap out and what tools I should aim for?
New bushings? Or should I opt for new control arms? Eventually wanting to lift it to 3” but gotta save a while before that happens. Ultimately wanting to go 2.5-3” lift with 31” tires as it’ll be a daily/beach/light off road.
Thanks in advance.
Hi everyone, I’m looking for advice on cleaning a massive amount of oil and dirt buildup in my engine bay. Engine block is so coated that the corners are completely "filled in" with a thick sludge of grime.
The Situation: It’s a thick, "well-blended" mixture of oil and dirt covering everything. A pressure washer barely touched it, and I’m hesitant to spray too much near the electrical connectors. Brake cleaner is effective but expensive for this volume.
Question: How in the world should I clean every nook and cranny without taking the block out?
Might have to someday but as of now, I just need the bare minimum of cleanliness.
Anyone know of a slightly used DCF890 is worth $80? Tool only.