r/JeepCherokeeXJ

The bearings are still buttery smooth, it only puts out 3A @ 12.1v @ 2500rpm.

Hey yall, currently putting in these axles for Eaton e-locker, there are 30 spline axles. Major concern is that the wheel bolts and just threaded bolts with right hand thread. Is this not a major concern as when tightening the lug on which is also right hand thread can it not loosen the bolt from the axle face!!!
Thankyou

Looking for an XJ and this one is about two hours from me me. Asking 5500 120k miles.

My only worry is this rust spot really, how concerning is this? Thanks so much.

https://streamable.com/jtaagz

https://streamable.com/ujcrpl

Took the jeep out for its first longer drive since putting it back together. Has great pressue when it turns on but after it warms up it starts to drop and will rise when i give gas. After awhile though it just stays low even when driving. Seems like its cam bearings after watching dexj and posting to a couple other places. Been working on it every weekend for the past couple years so pretty bummed. Would thicker oil and a hi flow oil pump act as a bandaid? Can cam bearings be done without a full tear down?

Rear hatch won’t open - quick simple fix

I’ve been cussin’ at my rear hatch for several years but it didn’t help… the latch wouldn’t open unless I first pressed inward, then pulled the handle. I have adjusted the threaded bar multiple times nothing helps. Today I removed the rear handle assembly to get a closer look and finally noticed the adjustment link rod is a left-hand thread (wtf!). You can see in the first picture the threads are backwards.

So the way to make it pull the lock mechanism open is to turn the adjustable link clockwise as it sits inside the rear hatch.

Remove the inner trim panel by taking loose eight Phillips head screws across the top and beside the windows, take out the two long screws that hold the grab handle (they are Inverse Brazilian Whiplash screw but a 30 Torx will also work), then use a trim panel prybar to pop the plastic retainers and remove the panel completely. Now you have access to the door lock handle and the latch mechanism in the bottom of the hatch assembly. Open the threaded link rod retaining clip at the bottom of the rod and pop it loose (the green clip in the second picture). The upper clip grips the threads at the top of the rod really tightly so I had to use a long set of needle nose pliers to reach into the door panel and basically rotate the rod a quarter turn at a time repositioning the pliers each step. Two turns of the rod is all it took for my rear hatch to open consistently. I put everything back together, and I swear it works every time.

Finally noticed the rod is threaded backwards oh hell yeah.

Did this in 61% humidity and 93degrees in direct sunlight because I obviously hate myself. I think I’m more impressed I didn’t get heat stroke. But ask any questions because I now have the answers.

We did a little mountain drive.

I just picked this thing up a couple days ago, super excited but there’s a ton of work that needs to be done. The frame is clean of rust though! Mechanically needs work though…

I'm new to Jeeps and the 4x4 world, so I'm still trying to figure things out. I recently bought an XJ and I've been dealing with what I think is death wobble. It only happens at certain speeds, but when it does, it's really violent and honestly pretty scary. I took it to a couple of regular shops, and they told me they couldn't do an alignment because the Jeep has a 1-ton steering and doesn't have a steering stabilizer. That's what they said anyways… I don't really know much about this stuff myself. I really want to learn though and have been watching a ton of YouTube videos! The shop also mentioned that all the steering and suspension parts look newer, so they didn't see anything obviously worn out or broken. Since they aren't an off-road shop, they basically said they couldn't go any further with diagnosing it. I'm planning to take it to an actual off-road/ 4x4 shop soon so someone who works on lifted Jeeps can look at it properly. Just wanted to share what's been going on and see if anyone has advice for someone who's new to all of this.

EDIT: I fat fingered and accidentally said this was an ‘88 it is NOT 🤦‍♂️ it is a 1998. Sorry about that!

i have a 2000 jeep cherokee xj with a problem of sputtering/varying rpms that dip down and jump up coming almost to a stall when the vehicle is cold but only when i narely give it gas(just Crack open the throttle body) i have replaced the battery the alternator the ignition rail the sparkplugs the throttle body including the tps and the iac valve sensor i have replaced both the cam and crank sensors as well as all 4 o2 sensors. since replacing the o2 sensors earlier today i am now pulling a p0138 code and the sputtering has become slightly worse but at some times has remained the same as before. what could be causing my problem and what should i check or fix next? Always appreciate the help but im about on my last leg im out of ideas besides buying a fuel gauge pressure tester 🤷‍♂️ PLEASE HELP send me your knowledge Jeep people 🫡

Alright guys ive finally decided to cave and make my own post regarding some questions. Ive got a 2000 Jeep Cherokee XJ ive been running into some problems since picking her up a few months ago. When cold and even sometimes when warmed up (less often) I run into the issue where when creeping or easing out (as in just cracking open the throttle body i.e minimal gas) from a stop the rpms start to spotter like crazy and sometimes nears a stall. My corrections/fixes so far, she wasnt charging/holding a charge needed both an alternator and battery. Cylinder 3 misfire replaced spark plugs and the ignition rail. Replaced both cam and crank sensors (factory synchronizer still), replaced the throttle body which came with all the sensors. All of these fixes have seemed to make my problem slightly improve so im on the right track id hope but I cant seem to nail down the ultimate cause of the problem ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED THIS IS DRIVING ME NUTS.