Hey fellow XJ Enthusiasts! My boyfriend is selling his 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport (2WD) with the highly reliable 4.0L Inline-6 engine. It has 171,871 miles, runs great, and has no check engine light. A fresh oil change was completed just a few days ago, and the brakes are still in good shape.

​This is a fantastic daily driver or utility wagon with a straight body and a free and clear California title in hand.

​The Details are as follows....

​Mechanical: Needs a wheel alignment/tire rotation. It has the common XJ loose flex-plate bolts which cause a rattle noise near the bellhousing—a well-known, simple fix if you are handy with a wrench.

​Registration: Last done in 2025, so it is currently late. Buyer will be responsible for DMV back-fees.

​Cosmetic: Minor everyday dings and dents, with minimal clear coat spots isolated to the hood. The interior is clean overall, but the front seats have covers due to normal wear/tears underneath, and there is a crack/crater in the dashboard plastic.

​Price & Trades:

Priced for a quick sale at $3,500 cash.

​Trades are welcome! I am open to various different vehicle types/traits, so feel free to send over what you have.

​Located in the Sacramento area. Serious inquiries only. No payment plans. Thanks for looking!

So I drove by this at a used car dealership, turned around and took a closer look. my goal is to find a 98-99 XJ for decently cheap. I’m young, new with cars, and like to look at the best in everything. From what i can tell the floor pan isn’t rust through but the rockers are painted over so i can’t tell if its bondo’d out the butt. (I also don’t have the experience to tell) the suspension looks rusted but my plan is to replace the suspension no matter what XJ i get. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
( Removed dealers info)

TLDR: Is this worth buying or is this used dealership selling glorified scrap?

Hello! Wanted some feedback - I took a measurement & sent it to Adam's when I bought the Advanced Adapters SYE & Custom Drive Shaft from them, they sent this one, I'm unsure if it's the right length. The distance from center of U Joint brackets from Diff to T-Case is 33" -
Wanted to ask, does this Driveshaft length "look" right?
As in, does it look like it's extended the proper amount for sitting at rest?

My pinion angle was about 5° below the drive shaft so I added 3° shims (this photo is after shimming) now measures 3° below. I was afraid a 4° shim might taken me over the suggested 1-2° below angle.

Drove it a 4 hours (2 hours down state & 2 back) yesterday & was getting vibrations around 60mph, they didnt start like clockwork though & seemed to subside sometimes when I got up to 70, didn't always start right away at 60mph but NEVER started at all before reaching 60mph.

More info: 1997 Jeep XJ 4L - Lifted the front 1.5" via HD springs, rear is lifted 3" via me adding brand new Iron Rock 2" Full Length "Add-A-Leaf"s to brand new HD Crown Leaf Springs before installing. I live in Michigan, bought this from a guy brought it up from AZ last year, never seen a lick of rust- parked it for the winter.

I've got to just say- this jeep is fuggin' INCREDIBLE!!! Every bolt comes off exactly as it's supposed to, I've not had a SINGLE bolt or nut give me ANY trouble, it's a dream. Hard to find cars that are even 5-10 years old that are so cooperative in Michigan... She has 129k also.

Thanks for reading, appreciate any input!

(Recap, asking if the Drive shaft "looks" right, and for any input about the 60mph vibrations.)

Is it possible and does anybody have pictures of the stock flares from 97-01 mounted higher with sheet metal trimmed under for more clearance

Running 32x11.5 r15 on about 4.5” lift

Got some Timkin hubs on Amazon through them on both sides, the old ones were seized. Runs great smooth and lots of swerving allowance 😀

Long story short I got a P1491 code (aux electric fan circuit issue) about 2 weeks ago and tried to nurse it along for a long drive. It overheated going up a mountain so I shut it off and towed it the rest of the way.

Today I checked the engine bay after I got it back from a shop to get that code fixed (wasn’t actually fixed) and noticed that my coolant reservoir level was sitting super high and had this diarrhea looking gunk in it.

I’m guessing that it’s oil but also confused why the coolant is sitting so high. Dipstick and engine oil cap both looked fine too.

Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!

Hey Everyone, I have been looking for a new car and the Jeep Cherokee 2nd gen has caught my eye. I found something on Facebook marketplace that looks amazing and was wondering if anyone can give me advice on what to look out for. The owner mentioned issues with stalling but that’s all I know. It’s listed for only 1,500 which seems like a steal. I attached some photos. Any advice would be appreciated since it’ll be my first time owning a jeep :)

Was wondering if anyone could help me figure out why I’m still getting a vibration even after putting this sye kit on I’ll post some pics if you guys could make sure I put everything in right thanks.

The other day I was messing around in 2wd, Arb air locker NOT engaged and went to pull onto pavement and heard my rear end click on the drivers side when I was turning sharp. My first thought was that the air locker had somehow locked up on me. Drove just fine in a straight line so I limped it home at like 15mph only 5 minutes from my house. Upon further inspection it looks like the c clips have somehow started to tilt in. Cross pin is fully tight so there should be no reason that the axles should move so I’m pretty unsure how this could happen. Currently has a Chrysler 8.25 rear end with 4.88 gears, arb air locker, and chromoly axle shafts. How bad is this going to be to fix. I’d prefer to not rebuild it myself (ptsd with rear ends). Gears look to be completely fine. Will my locker and axle shafts be recoverable?

I have an 89, and for the past couple of weeks it has started to vibrate but only on deceleration once I get down to like 15 mph or so but driving normal speeds is perfectly fine. I know it’s definitely the driveline ofc but do you guys think it’s more so the u joints that need to be replaced or is it possibly the pinion angle etc. for reference I have a 5.5” long arm kit and a SYE. Also I know it’s definitely not the rear diff I already pulled the cover and everything was perfect.

I have a 1990 renix era that has been sitting for a few years with the oversized pressure bottle and I removed it and converted to an overflow bottle and radiator cap. Removed the heater valve and go right into the heater core. When trying to run it and push air out, no air comes out but I get a “gasp” sound and then nothing.
I’ve replaced the water pump, thermostat, upper rad hose, blower motor switch, blower motor relay. The blower motor is relatively new still and I checked for mice nest. The wires connected to the blower motor switch look ok and not fried. I’ve capped whatever vacuum hoses I could find.
What are some things I’m missing? What do you think?

Thanks in advance

Hello all,

I previously posted a picture (reattached in this) of the rats nest wiring job the previous owner had in the 89 xj.

I’m starting over from scratch. Separated and cut the wires by color. I’m now left with solid color wires and striped color wires along with the harness wires that came with the new radio.

See the attached pictures. Hopefully someone knows how to help and how I should connect these. I typed out everything in the one picture. Thanks!!!