u/ForsakenRepublic1776

Pretty stoked about this! Everything has mostly come out pretty damn mint. One tiny section of the upper, the supports didn't cleanly lift (I think because it was enclosed so fused a bit. Nothing a file can't fix) but otherwise they've been pretty dang clean! Went with a the mil spec lower remix, and the STNKR flow upper with the STNKR flow standard handgaurd.

Open to any critique of the printed parts, hoping these are serviceable though.

Plan to tuck a FTN.5 Rimfire once I get approved for that, but in the meantime I have a small .22 can I can use.

Next will be purchasing hardware. I've got the FCG reinforcement plats on the way. Trying to decide if I want to go CMMG or RTB for the bolt/barrel kit. Leaning RTB for cost.

I have a LPK already, and a RA-140 trigger, and Atrius FRS ready to go. Been researching the stuff needed to make that work.

What's the best mags to use? Any that have compatibility with the McFadden speed loader? Because manually loading .22lr mags sucks lol.

What else do I need to get? Or other advice I should follow on this build?

Also, huge thanks to u/StruggleFearless2947 for answering all my questions about their build as it was a huge inspo to mine!

Just picked up a couple new additions and figured I’d share.

First is a Glock 19X I’ve been wanting for a while and finally nabbed a great bundle.

Second is my latest frankenglock build. Ended up piecing this one together over time:

• Picked up the slide + sights for around $250 a while back. Was hoping to get a Gen 5 frame but those are basically nonexistent or SUPER expensive.
• So, I traded into a Nomad 9X frame with most of a lower parts kit (no trigger)
• Grabbed a used GPT for my 19.5 MOS and swapped that trigger into the Nomad

Now it’s a Frankenglock 45, and honestly it turned out pretty slick.

Happy to have them join the family though!

Vid is documentation of durability testing to see if these could handle the ROF of that little monster. Cans were printed in PPA-CF and PA6 and all held up great. These designs continue to impress the heck out of me.

It didn't make it into this video, but we will post some thermal footage of these cans and the FTN Venturi 9mm soon, along with some fun experiments with the Venturi. I think the thermal vid will be value-add data for designers since its a good visual of representation of what parts of the can heat up first and thus are likely subject to the more intense forces. Either way, its cool to see.

Made some changes after my last post. Again using 300blkfde's settings except for the modifications below:
- Dried another 24 hours
- Added supports at the bottom that I forgot last time
- Dropped bed temp to 50C
- No pre-heating the chamber.

Came out great! Very solid!

Forgive me as this is my first nylon print, but I've seen a number of posts about annealing and moisture conditioning. I saw that 300blkfde does not recommend annealing but rather only moisture conditioning. What's a good process for that? I'm in a dry, arid, and hot environment so can't just leave it out for a couple weeks.

Also, is there any recommendations for sealing? Main concern is the abrasiveness of the finished product, and little CF particles that might get stuck to my skin. Valid? Or don't worry about it.

First PA6-CF print attempt. Dried for 24 hours at 85C, then started the print while still drying at 85C. I was going to do 48 hours... but I got impatient. Could that be the issue? It seemed to be going pretty good... until it wasn't 😅. Could it be related to not drying enough?

Or, I noticed on this print that I did not do supports in one section where I did when I printed it in PETG-CF. I previously had a failure around this same area with PETG-CF, but when I added supports there (among other places) it printed perfectly.

First image is the failed print.
Second image is the slicer preview of this print with an arrow pointing to where I wonder if supports are needed.
Third image is my successful PETG-CF print where those supports were present.

If it's just the drying, I'll give it another 24 hours.

Printer: P1S
Plate: BIQU Cryogrip Pro Glacier
Glue: Magigoo PA (I will say the adhesion was pretty dang good!)
Dryer: AMS-HT (Using bypass feed tube to print as external spool so dryer can still run).
Filament: Fiberon PA6-CF
Settings: 3000blkfde's