u/GlendaleFemboi

Does anyone know the charging rate of the 2017 or similar generation Soul with the included charging cable and a standard outlet? When I search on the internet I read about L1 charge rates being anything from 1.2 to 1.9 kW.

Edit: I'm in a warm climate btw.

I am looking at a 2017 Soul EV and this is what CarScanner tells me:

Auxiliary battery voltage 14.2V

Available charge power 122.37hp

Available discharge power 122.37hp

Battery Current 1A

Battery DC Voltage 349.4 V

Battery Heater 1 Temperature -50 C

Battery Heater 2 Temperature -50 C

Battery Inlet Temperature 20 C

Battery Max Temperature 20 C

Battery Min Temperature 19 C

Battery power 0.48hp

Cumulative Charge Current 13810.6 Ah

Cumulative Discharge Current 13812 Ah

Cumulative Energy Charged 5022.7 kWh

Cumulative Energy Discharged 4884.1 kWh

Inverter Capacitor Voltage 346 V

Isolation Resistance 3000 kOhm

BMS Maximum Deterioration 3.4%

BMS Minimum Deterioration 100%

Minimum Cell Voltage 3.62 V

Maximum Cell Voltage 3.64 V

Operating time 4259.5 hours

DC current out 19A

DC voltage out 14.5V

DC voltage in 348 V

LDC Temp 1 30 C

Low voltage power 275.5 W

VMCU Aux Battery Voltage 14.3 V

BMCU Brake Related 90

VMCU Motor Phase Current RMS 28

VMCU Motor U Phase Current Sensor Offset 2052

VMCU Motor V Phase Current Sensor Offset 2052

BMS State of Health #1 106.6%

BMS State of Health #2 58.3%

First, I read online that BMS SoH #2 refers to the 12V battery. So it seems like it may need a new 12V. But the aux battery voltage being 14.2V seems to indicate that the 12V is working fine. Should I budget for a replacement battery? Apparently it is not covered by warranty: https://www.kia.com/us/content/dam/kia/us/en/images/warranty/manual/warranty-manual/2017_warranty_soul-ev.pdf

Second, what's with BMS maximum deterioration being 3.4% and minimum being 100%? That doesn't make a lot of sense to me. That said all the cells are 3.62V-3.64V

Anything else I should be concerned about or does this look pretty good?

I am offered a 2020 Ioniq EV Limited for sale for $11,500 in California, it has 60k miles. The rear undershield is broken (not the one under the battery, the one at the back). The battery state of health is 88.9%, and most of its charging has come from fast charging. It's on its third owner, was previously a lease vehicle. All cells have a uniform voltage of 3.78V, and isolation resistance is 3000 kΩ. The battery management system has measured 35,169 Ah charged vs. 34,882 Ah discharged over the car's lifetime. There is only one OBDII fault code and it is an archived fault code about something minor. It's roughly the type of car that I want (aside from me not liking its color), but do you think the price is a good deal, great deal, not-so-good deal?

I am offered a 2020 Ioniq EV Limited for sale for $11,500 in California, it has 60k miles and is generally in good condition. The rear undershield is broken (not the one under the battery, the one at the back). The battery state of health is 88.9%, and most of its charging has come from fast charging. It's on its third user, was previously a lease vehicle. All cells have a uniform voltage of 3.78V, and isolation resistance is 3000 kΩ. The battery management system has measured 35,169 Ah charged vs. 34,882 Ah discharged over the car's lifetime. There is only one OBDII fault code and it is an archived fault code about something minor. It's roughly the type of car that I want (aside from me not liking its color), but do you think the price is a good deal, great deal, not-so-good deal?

There is a 2020 Ioniq EV Limited for sale for $11,500 in California, it has 60k miles and is generally in good condition. The rear undershield is broken (not the one under the battery, the one at the back). The battery state of health is 88.9%, and most of its charging has come from fast charging. It's on its third owner, was previously a lease vehicle. All cells have a uniform voltage of 3.78V, and isolation resistance is 3000 kΩ. The battery management system has measured 35,169 Ah charged vs. 34,882 Ah discharged over the car's lifetime. There is only one OBDII fault code and it is an archived fault code about something minor.

Is this a good buy? I mean I guess I can tell it's a good car, but is this a good price.

Btw: I'm 6' 0" tall and found I have barely enough headroom even when I moved the seat all the way back and down. But on my other car, the on-paper headroom is the same, yet I feel much more headroom. I don't understand it, maybe I was doing something wrong. What has been your experience with headroom?

I am contemplating buying a 2020 Hyundai Ioniq Electric, with the intention of fitting it with a Comma Four. The website says it's fully compatible and I know people say that Hyundais are generally good with Comma, but this is a big purchase so I just wanna be sure if there's any reason to think I'm making a mistake. I would hate to drop so much money on a car on the assumption that Comma will work well with it, then find out that the result is less than I hoped for.

These are the alternatives I considered and rejected, do you think I should give any of them a second chance?

• 2019-2022 Hyundai Kona Electric, more expensive than Ioniq
• 2022-2023 Chevy Bolt, more expensive than Ioniq and less compatible with Comma (needs a special pedal thing)
• 2019 VW E-Golf, less range than Ioniq and maybe VW is not as good of a Comma platform as Hyundai is
• 2018-2020 Nissan Leaf with ProPilot, cheaper but seems like a worse Comma platform
• 2018-2020 Tesla Model 3, doesn't need Comma at all, but more expensive and maybe too big for me
• Ioniq 5 and EV6, bigger and more expensive than what I want, but they are highlighted as favorite choices on the Comma website

I am living in LA and was previously spending an average of $0.23/mile on maintenance services on my 1.8L. That mechanic probably was not doing a good job or overcharging me or something. I'm no longer going there, but I'm curious about what I can expect to be the average maintenance spend on a Sonic in the future now with a different mechanic. What have you guys been spending?

Hi I want a used electric car, mainly to save fuel and maintenance money, but also to get a car with some autopilot and active safety technology. Right now I spend about $0.38 per mile on gas and maintenance, and I figure even an older EV should cost me about $0.18 per mile on electricity and maintenance, so if I sell my old gas car and buy a $10k EV then I should easily be able to break even in less than 50,000 miles, and if I can keep this EV going more than 50,000 miles then I will be saving significant money over the long run.

I can do Level 1 charging at work, and Level 2 charging from our driveway although we will be taking turns with one charger between two electric cars. I normally drive 25-50 miles per day, rarely up to 100 or so. I figure I need at least 100 miles of real world range but I'd presumably appreciate having some more, especially to keep the car a long time.

After a lot of research it seems like the two best deals are a 40kwh Nissan Leaf for around $10k with ProPilot, or a Tesla Model 3 for around $14k, either one from about 2018. The Tesla is more expensive but has more range and supposedly a better autopilot.

I read about many other EVs but none of them seem to strike a good balance of battery range, driver assistance and affordability compared to these two options. From my readings, it seems like Tesla was #1 for driver assistance and Nissan's ProPilot was #2 within that era of 2016-2020. In terms of vehicle size I normally prefer a small car, but I like the idea of being able to sleep in a Tesla on rare occasions.

Please tell me what you think 🙂 is the 2018 Tesla or 2018 Leaf clearly a better choice than the other, or is there another option that you think I should be considering alongside them, or should I just keep my current car because I am overestimating the cost savings of moving to an EV.

I live in LA btw.