Used KSM90 "Ultra Power" Tripping GFCI

Bought a used 300W KSM90. It seems to run just fine but while running (about 5-10 minutes) it tripped a GFCI outlet twice. I see that is a common enough occurrence that it was easy to find other instances of it happening.

Walk me through this?

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u/GlockSpock — 1 day ago
▲ 2 r/canon

Canon EF 85mm f/1.4L IS sent off to Canon for CMS

This is going to be a longer post but I'll do my best to keep it to the point and concise.

A few months ago I purchased a used 85mm f/1.4L IS from a local photographer. Seemed to check out great I purchased it and used it for a few tiny "test shoots".

I was a CPS Gold member with two remaining "CMS" credits and my membership expired/renewed July 21 so I decided to send this lens off with another lens of mine so I wouldn't "lose the credits". When I sent the lens off I included a small note. There is a cosmetic scratch on the focal distance window, and a few small tears on the rear weather gasket/seal. The note simply asked for a repair quote for those two items in addition to the CMS.

The other lens went through CMS and returned to me with zero issue, as expected. I was sent a quote for the 85mm which was more than I was interested in paying for two minor issues that I consider non-issues. At this point I called and spoke to CSR1, with whom I've spoken with numerous times over the years. He generally explained that getting the focal distance window repaired would require disassembling the lens. I asked him if it would be a different/cheaper quote to ignore the window and just replace the seal. He typed it up in the computer and told me that they'd get that re-quoted. All seemed well.

A few days went by and I heard nothing. I thought that maybe declining the old repair quote would get things going in the system so I clicked the "Decline" button. A few more days went by and I heard nothing.

I ended up calling back and spoke to CSR2 and he looked into it. He told me that since I declined the repair Canon sent the lens back to m and it was scheduled for delivery that same day. From what it appeared, the lens was never sent for the original CMS that I had sent it for. The problem was, at this point in time my CPS had also expired. I expressed to him that the biggest reason I sent the lens in was for a CMS, the other two minor issues were just something I was curious about since I was sending the lens in anyway. So CSR2 spoke with someone else and then came back and provided me a free 2-Day shipping label to send the lens back to Canon once I received it. He said it could be sent in and that he created a case escalation so that the CMS could be performed retroactively since I was a CPS Gold member when I originally sent it in. Additional note, CSR2 insinuated that CSR1 never did the re-quote/escalation correctly.

I received the lens but had to place a note inside so that they would be aware of the story/issue. I did notice that the lens was wrapped “toilet paper style” around the barrel of the lens very well with bubble wrap, but the front and rear of the lens was in my opinion lacking. I didn’t think much of it but did end up supplementing their packaging with a bit of my own bubble wrap.

The lens went back to Canon and Monday morning I received a brand new repair quote. Although, it shocked me as it was for “Manual focus sticks. Stiff to turn” for $399.00. Since I still wanted the lens to go to CMS I was very wary about “Declining” that repair. I ended up calling Canon and got CSR1 again. I tried my best to explain the entire issue and what CSR2 had done for me in efforts to make things right. This is where it got very weird. I felt like CSR1 simply wanted to argue with everything I said and was cutting me off, etc. His main “point” was since I declined the original repair that CMS couldn’t be done. He kept insisting that the scratch and seal were going to somehow prevent CMS from being done. The new quote barely was even a topic. I asked for him to look at the notes CSR2 put on the account/escalation. About 3-5 minutes later he came back, told me he asked for an escalation or something, and that I would be receiving a new quote soon. Ok, I realized that was as far as I was getting with him.

I waited 2 days and called back. CSR2 again. Of course he remembered our heated exchange. He saw something where I think CMS had been contacted but the quote not adjusted for ignoring the manual focus and doing CMS. I thanked him for his time. Later that day I ended up calling and asking for a supervisor. I spoke to SV1 and told him the backstory. He told me he’d look into it and I’d get a call back that day, hopefully by him. Later that day I received an updated quote for “A technician has evaluated you product and determined that this cannot be a CMS. The focus ring is very stiff” for $689.00. At that point, I canceled the repair and expect me lens hopefully tomorrow or Saturday. I never received that phone call, by the way.

Issue

I bought the lens used. I only used the lens about 1-2 hours beforehand and it was with AF every time. I don’t specifically remember the manual focus ring being stiff but that does not mean that it wasn’t. I’m anxious to get the lens to see how it works. This is a full-time manual focus override lens and my research shows that depending on what is warped/broken/etc, it could also affect AF. If I was a focus-by-wire design it would be different.

I cannot prove anything but I do wonder if the lens was damaged in transit, specifically the first time Canon shipped it back to me purely based on how the lens appeared. I didn’t even take the lens caps off that brief moment. But if I get the lens back and the focus ring is “mega stiff” and it no longer performs AF well/at all, then what? I don’t have any intentions of paying $399.00 - $689.00 to fix this lens, I’d much rather either purchase a different one or even put that money toward an RF lens.

Mainly looking to vent but to also see if anyone here has any advice for maybe things I haven’t thought about.

This is my first negative experience ever with anything Canon. I've owned and shot Canon for 20+ years. Lots of lessons learned here, a few points where probably my fault with things that maybe I should have done to be more diligent but I don't feel like the whole thing was on me.

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u/GlockSpock — 14 days ago

Lightroom and NAS Slow to Open?

So, I've had Lightroom Classic a while now and have built up over 100,00 files. The library itself is on my system drive which is an M.2. Traditionally, I've had most of my RAW files on a separate 2.5" SSD. The problem? I outgrew the SSD.

So I built a 4 Drive NAS with parity. 4x18TB drives equals about 36TB of storage, minus that tiny bit for "formatting, etc".

So I finally consolidated all my files to the same drive. It's mapped via Windows. The files show up mapped via Lightroom.

So, Lightroom used to open reasonably/rather fast. Now? It takes forever, literally minutes or even longer. I haven't timed it, but I've noticed that when I "open" Lightroom, the NAS disk usage goes to 30Mbps or more. Sidenote: The NAS is capable of about 2000-2500Mbps sustained reads/writes, so 30Mbps is rather "slow" compared to what it could be pulling.

I imagined that Lightroom would live off the library and only access the NAS when it needed to read RAW files. I'm guessing, but it appears it is somehow running some sort of check against all files in the library. I'm waiting this very second at the time of writing for Lightroom to actually finish opening so that I can check the NAS disk usage and see if it is closer to 0.

I didn't foresee this, and would have likely dissuaded me from building the NAS in the first place. Anyone else experiencing this, and any remedies?

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u/GlockSpock — 20 days ago
▲ 1 r/hardwareswap+1 crossposts

[FS] Samsung 4TB 870 EVO V-NAND 2.5" SSD SATA

$400.00 Shipped (USPS or UPS)

Obtained new by me a few years ago.

See [TIMESTAMP] for photos and screenshots from Samsung Magician.

imgur.com
u/GlockSpock — 15 days ago
▲ 14 r/WGUIT

(Motivation) Bachelor of Science, Information Technology

I'm going to be completely honest. I have two courses + the capstone.

Networks – D325
Network and Security - Applications – D329
IT Capstone Written Project – C769

My term ends November 30th. I am severely lacking motivation right now. I'm going through CBT Nuggets for the Network+.

I've loved so much of the program but at some point I just started finding it extremely difficult to spend the time. Family, weather, etc have all contributed.

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u/GlockSpock — 1 month ago

First TrueNAS Setup

I'm in the process of bringing online my first NAS.

Current:

  • Dell 5820
  • 64GB ECC Memory
  • 5x 10TB Seagate Exos Drives
  • Quadro P1000
  • Boot Drive is 256GB M.2 (Currently booting over USB)

Step 2:

  • Get M.2 Inside Computer (PCI Card)
  • 2.5Gb or 10Gb NIC

Potentially:

  • +64 GB ECC Memory (If I can source at a decent price)
  • Mirror Boot Drive with another M.2
  • +2 1TB 2.5" Samsung Drive

Goals

  • 5 Drive RAIDZ2 POOL for NAS
  • 2 Drive "APP" POOL for Apps/VM
  • SD Card for Config Backups

---

Ok. So I've already installed NAS as a test and really love a lot about it. I currently have an Optiplex Micro that I'm contemplating completely decommissioning if all goes well. On the Optiplex, I currently have the following all within docker.

  • adguardhome
  • caddy
  • dockhand
  • grafana
  • homarr
  • homebridge
  • jellyfin
  • joplin
  • motioneye
  • paperless-ngx
  • wireguard

I particularity have recently fallen in love with dockhand as a replacement for portainer. So, can anyone think of any reason not to take 2x1TB 2.5" SSD's, mirror them in ZFS, and set it up as a store for apps and potential VM? At that point, it would be running at minimum all of the above. It also looks like I can connect dockhand to the same docker instance that TrueNAS sets up and then use either interface to manage the containers? At that point, if I replace everything I use the Optiplex Micro for then I can remove and sell the Optiplex Micro.

I need to get an M.2 PCI card. I could get either 1 or 2 of the "cheap ones" that support a single M.2 or one of the more expensive ones that support 2. I'm considering mirroring the boot pool so keep that in mind. That said, as simple as it seems to install TrueNAS and restore/backup the config, would it be nearly as beneficial to simply keeping the boot pool a single drive and keeping an up to date config backup?
Thoughts?

I'm considering something like the IcyDock FLEX-FIT Trio MB343SP. This (I think) will allow me to replace the 5.25" drive with 2x 2.5" drives and 1x 3.5". That would hold the 5th drive in the 5 drive pool and the 2 2.5" SSD's.
Thoughts?

Open to all suggestions, questions, and advice.

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u/GlockSpock — 1 month ago

WD PWL and Advice For HDD

I deleted my old thread. It was going wrong directions and most of that was my fault.

Just yesterday I placed a 20TB WD Red Pro in my PC. Every 5 seconds the HD was making a "clicking" noise, research showed it to be PWL...Preventative Wear Leveling. Other's chimed in, claiming that it wasn't normal. Well, today I was able to try a brand new 16TB WD Red Pro in the same PC. Same outcome...clicking every 5 seconds...nearly silent when actually in use.

https://community.wd.com/t/preventive-wear-leveling/249579

I ran one of the drives outside of my PC and it actually sounded just a tiny bit quieter. So, it could be the case (pun intended) that different PC cases muffle or amplify PWL. Maybe some people cannot hear it at all because of their hearing sensitivity. But long story short, I very much believe for this to be a "feature" and not a malfunctioning or failing drive.

Sending both drives back to Amazon.

I need storage. My thought was that for the price the 20TB would guarantee me 5 years of having a drive (warranty) and WD is generally reliable.

I like the storage being in my PC for multiple reasons. I'd love a rackmounted NAS in my closet like anyone but currently that is not in the budget. Hopefully at some point.

So...going forward, I want some storage. Lots of it. At a good Price Per Terabyte. I know some swear by purchasing used server equipment but isn't something I'd typically do. If it is the right thing...convince me.

From my research it appears all modern WD drives do PWL but the extend of the audible noise may vary. I'm now searching for other drives by other manufacturers. I'm thinking of maybe navigating away from such large drives and maybe going 10TB or so.

u/GlockSpock — 2 months ago

Spinning HDD Advice

I'm a photographer that has way too many RAW files that I wish to keep indefinitely. I currently have a 4TB SSD which has been great over the years but now the same drive on Amazon is over $1,000.

I convinced myself that going HDD for upgraded storage was the way to go currently so I paid $799 for a WD Red Pro 20TB. I convinced myself I was going to love it but the think clicks every 5 seconds that it's spinning. PWL.

I had plans to keep the thing in my tower which is on my desk. I don't think I can do this. It is so distracting. I currently have no plans for a NAS/DAS or external.

I understand the firmware for such an enterprise/NAS drive is what is making use of the PWL. Great for datacenters, not great for desktop use.

I can return the drive to Amazon. But it has me considering other drives. I paid sorta a premium for this. I'm beginning to think that buying more of a prosumer level drive may be the thing to do.

Open to advice. I was honestly thinking that snagging two of the "big external" drives may be the thing to do. I could shuck one of them, use it internally, then use the external as a backup via Veeam.

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u/GlockSpock — 2 months ago