r/Lightroom

Recently, when I import RAW photos into Lightroom from my Sony A1, all appears normal at first. When I click on one, though, they go super dark and I need to lift the shadows and exposure almost two stops to get it back to how I shot it, and how the RAW preview looks. The photos are also a lot more contrasted after clicking on them as well.

I've never had problems with this before, but recently I started shooting more video on my camera. My only thought is it may have something to do with the "Gamme Display Assist" setting for SLOG3 footage. But, I thought this was not supposed to have any effect when shooting photos? Does anybody have an idea on how to stop Lightroom from making these changes upon clicking on the photos?

I've attached a screenshot to hopefully show what I mean below. The photo selected was shot at the exact same exposure as all of the other photos you see in the previews, but has gone dark and contrasty upon clicking on it.

https://preview.redd.it/msaeiykx1vuh1.png?width=1123&format=png&auto=webp&s=a84f55fc18049836e51c389d5865ae94cd51c64a

I used to be a great sub that people were able to discuss presets they loved and trade presets. I want to say it was called preset paradise? Anyone know of it? Or know of a sub similar to it?

My presets never seem to work and are mainly unusable. I’ve bought and downloaded a few different packs of presets, loaded them into lightroom and they always just look ridiculous when I apply them to my RAWs. I have about 4 out of hundreds that work and I just stick to them. I have tried using others and massively ajusting the preset to fit but it just seems pointless by the time I’ve fiddled with them that much. I kinda just thought that I had bought the wrong ones… until recently

I uploaded a photo i had taken on my iPhone into lightroom and went to apply my usual preset that works but checked the others and pretty much ALL the presets in the different folders looked good! Some not my style but they all “worked”. This made me think I’ve made a mistake with my uploading or processing with the presets or something in the settings that’s making them not work with my raws.

This is further reinforced because I’ve just opened a couple of my raws in “camera raw” on photoshop rather than Lightroom and …low and behold…the presets all work.

Why aren’t they working in Lightroom 😭😭😭

Tldr: presets don’t work in Lightroom on my raws but in photoshop camera raw they work fine and on iPhone heic files in Lightroom

Edit: appreciate from this post I might sound like I have no idea how to use Lightroom but I’ve been a professional photographer for about 7 years and work mon-fri with a fully booked diary. I don’t need to learn how to use the basic settings of Lightroom 🤣❤️ I’m always learning how it works because no one taught me but I have a decent understanding of how it and presets work

I was just looking for advice on why the two systems are prosessing the same image different 🫶🏻

Hi All –

Seeking help from this community.

I need to buy a new machine (Mac) to be able to process my 48MB raw files from my Nikon D850.

I have been looking to buy a used Mac mini M4 pro, but just saw the new Mac mini M6 for less money and I’m wondering if the Mac mini M6 with
12-core CPU / 12-core GPU / 32GB RAM will be able to process an import and workflow of several hundred images off a card without a spinning pinwheel… Or do I have to go back to the M4 pro?

Also – for anybody who has yet to purchase, not sure about renewals, but Amazon is currently running Lightroom/Lightroom classic for $69.95 for a year.

Thanks in advance!

When I’m looking through my photos and choosing which ones to keep and lose, I delete them but then they’re just greyed out and it leaves the workspace very cluttered I know I can filter them to just see the “picked” ones, but can I get rid of them all together?
All help appreciated! Thanks

I took pictures for my schools volleyball game yesterday and the setting helped capture good moments but now im not sure how to remove the grain on the pictures if its possible, I can also only work on my phone / iPad but I really need the pictures. 🥲

I don't know if I need fo send the pictures to get an estimate but they have my schools name and the players faces in them so I don't think that I really should be posting it 😞

So I use the denoise on some of my photos that are quite grainy. It definitely helps but sometimes my photos look too smooth and AI-like. Or other times it adds extra detail. I feel like I’m kinda cheating since it is AI, and sometimes it adds more depth to the photo. Could someone correct me if I’m wrong? Or give any advice? I have a few photos that I’m quite happy with but I feel guilty since the feature seems to be adding more detail
to my photo, it’s set around 20-29 so not very high

Edit: I mainly do wildlife photography and shoot in RAW, still new to this so my photos aren’t perfect and I’m far from being a professional

I have a portrait I had to do really quickly pre-conference, I purposely chose good daylight but knew the background wasn’t ideal. Is there a way to select the background and basically replace it, or use an object removal tool broadly like that? Maybe in PS if not LR? Thx!

https://preview.redd.it/srx5acdcjhth1.png?width=1025&format=png&auto=webp&s=b7fb1be790143587aec9884ca3e5078a767e5158

https://preview.redd.it/nnm510tdjhth1.png?width=1099&format=png&auto=webp&s=88bf7ececf88f19552a8001645d081c0e75882ce

This is a new feature in Lightroom CC that was offered to me as a beta test today. Safe to say I didn't have extremely high expectations for it, but I would advise against using it completely.

It uses Nano Banana, and it seems to change text and elements even when advised not to. I used the 4k model and the default "Sky replacement" template prompt.

Prompt: (Sky replacement template)

The sky, wherever it appears in the composition: replace it with a new sky that best complements the scene's existing lighting, time of day, and mood. Preserve the foreground and all non-sky subjects, horizon line(s), composition, and existing lighting direction on the ground -- do not relight or recolor any non-sky elements. Match the color temperature and light direction of the new sky to the ambient lighting already present in the scene. Change moderately. No added objects, no altered subject identity, no text or artifacts, no changes to foreground exposure or contrast.

I honestly don't even know where to start...

I've been working entirely in HDR for a while now. I use JXL files on my 16-inch MacBook Pro (M2). Everything works extremely well so far. I have no issues sending the files to other people, editing them, converting HDR to SDR works without any problems in apps like WhatsApp, and playback also works well on my Mac, iPhone, etc.

Thanks to Apple's EDR technology, editing HDR photos in Lightroom also works flawlessly. I don't have any issues with washed-out colors or contrast when HDR is enabled. On top of that, both my MacBook and my iPhone more or less match each other 1:1, which is extremely important for reproducibility since most of my clients also use iPhones.

Now comes my problem.

I would like to use an external display so that I don't always have to work on the relatively small 16-inch MacBook screen.

Currently, I have a QD-OLED monitor that covers more than 99% of the P3 color space, supports DisplayHDR 400 True Black with 1,000 nits, and was factory-calibrated to a Delta E of less than 2.

The monitor does not natively support EDR (or better said Apple dosent nativly enabled EDR with this monitor), which is the first drawback, because as a result all SDR content looks completely washed out when HDR is enabled. I also suspect that the monitor's 1,000-nit limit is restricting how I can edit the HDR files.

My current workflow looks like this:

• Connect the monitor to the MacBook via USB-C
• Enable HDR on the MacBook for the external monitor
• Match the two displays as closely as possible
• Close the MacBook and edit exclusively on the external monitor

This leaves me with the EDR issue, but even more importantly, the HDR highlights are not reproduced equivalently on the external monitor.

If I edit an image on the MacBook until I am happy with it and then look at the same image on the external monitor, the difference is significant enough that I would want to edit the image again on the external monitor so that it looks best there.

And that's really frustrating, because it means I don't feel comfortable moving away from editing exclusively on the MacBook.

My current plan is the following:

First, I want to see whether tools such as BetterDisplay can make a difference with my current monitor, especially by enabling EDR. From what I understand, this should generally be possible.

After that, I would try to match both displays, the MacBook and my OLED monitor, as closely as possible using all available settings, and then see whether that is sufficient to solve the problem.

I don't expect this to fully solve the issue, though, because I suspect the monitor's 1,000-nit limit is ultimately the bottleneck.

Plan B would therefore be to buy a 5th-generation Tandem OLED. These supposedly offer around HDR 500 True Black / up to 1,300 nits peak brightness.

I would then either go for something like the MSI PRO MAX 341QPXW14G, which has not been released in Germany yet but offers various profiles and software-based implementations specifically for Mac. The monitor was essentially designed with Mac users in mind.

If this monitor doesn't become available within a reasonable timeframe for whatever reason, I would go with another Tandem OLED and hope that I can use something like BetterDisplay to enable EDR, then manually match the colors, contrast, etc. as closely as possible.

Another thought I had was buying Apple's Studio Display. However, it doesn't offer true HDR, so I can't really imagine that it would be suitable for proper HDR editing. The Pro Display XDR is simply too expensive for me.

So, how do you guys edit photos in HDR?

Am I missing something obvious here? Is there a flaw in my reasoning or something I'm overlooking?

I'm wondering if there is a better workflow than what I am currently doing. I'm open to new/more efficient ideas.

Steps

1. Edit in LR (collection name = LR Edits)
2. From LR, Edit In > Edit in Adobe Photoshop
3. Edit in PS (new TIF file is created with -Edit at the end of the filename)
4. Finishing touches in LR (crops, export sizes) on the -Edit file
5. Move the -Edit file into a new collection (collection name = PS Edits)
6. Remove the -Edit file from the LR Edits collection.

Changes Want to Make

I wish there was a way to move the -Edit images into the PS Edits collection and NOT have to also remove it from the LR Edit collection. The goal is to reduce clicks/steps.

But I don't want to open the -Edit images in the Library module, just to put them in a new collection.

Reasoning

I like to keep the different files in separate collections so if I want to change the crop, its easier to find the image in the PS Edits collection. I find it less chaotic not having multiple version of 1 image in 1 collection.

When I save the image in PS, I do not have to manually rename the file, select the folder location, or import back into LR, if I open directly from LR.

With ai being incorporated more and more in the different areas of Lightroom classic, it's become unavoidable to use while maintaining an efficient workflow. My issue is when I'll use denoise or the remove tool in my project then export maybe an hour or so later, the app is asking to update these tools. Why does this happen and is there any way to avoid it without compromising my edits?

Hello everyone!

I found an offer for Adobe Lightroom CC | 1 User 1 Year | Including Lightroom Classic at 100€.

I would like to know if it is possible to upgrade the subscription to a photography plan during the year without loising much money or if I will be "stuck" with the purchased plan until the expiry.

If possible, the Photography plan will have the same deadline of the original LR annual plan?

I'm an amateur and I would like to have the option to upgrade the plan if needed, but at the moment LR classic is more than enough for my needs.

Cheers!