I got tired of re-explaining to friends how transferable points work, so I built Points & Prompts: https://pointsandprompts.com

Before I share it anywhere else, I'd like people who actually know this space to tear it apart.

What's on it:

- A transfer map for the six transferable currencies (Amex, Chase, Citi, Capital One, Bilt, Wells Fargo): where each one goes, where it can't go, and the best and worst uses. Includes this year's changes, like Chase to Hyatt going 4:3 on Preferred/Ink and the Alaska/Hawaiian "Atmos" merger.
- Point valuations pulled live from AwardWallet's public values API. Their numbers, attributed, based on real member bookings.
- A reference covering 33 airline and hotel programs: sweet spots, pricing models, surcharges, and which bank points feed each one.
- A "master prompt generator," which is where the name comes from. You describe the trip and optionally your balances, and it writes a detailed prompt to paste into Claude or ChatGPT. The prompt bakes in the actual transfer rules so the AI doesn't invent partners that don't exist. Balances never leave your browser. No accounts, no tracking, no affiliate links.

How it's built, since someone will ask: one static HTML file on GitHub, auto-deployed by Netlify. I built it with heavy AI assistance (Claude did most of the code), then checked the partner tables against AwardWallet's guides and the banks' own transfer pages. Valuations update themselves through the API. Partner data is a manual edit when programs change.

What I'd love from this sub:

1. Anything wrong in the transfer tables? Ratios drift and I'd rather fix errors fast.
2. Which programs are missing that you'd want covered?
3. Is the prompt generator useful, or a gimmick?

It's free, there's no monetization, and I mainly want it to be accurate.

I got tired of re-explaining to friends how transferable points work, so I built Points & Prompts: https://pointsandprompts.com

Before I share it anywhere else, I'd like people who actually know this space to tear it apart.

What's on it:

• A transfer map for the six transferable currencies (Amex, Chase, Citi, Capital One, Bilt, Wells Fargo): where each one goes, where it can't go, and the best and worst uses. Includes this year's changes, like Chase to Hyatt going 4:3 on Preferred/Ink and the Alaska/Hawaiian "Atmos" merger.
• Point valuations pulled live from AwardWallet's public values API. Their numbers, attributed, based on real member bookings.
• A reference covering 33 airline and hotel programs: sweet spots, pricing models, surcharges, and which bank points feed each one.
• A "master prompt generator," which is where the name comes from. You describe the trip and optionally your balances, and it writes a detailed prompt to paste into Claude or ChatGPT. The prompt bakes in the actual transfer rules so the AI doesn't invent partners that don't exist. Balances never leave your browser. No accounts, no tracking, no affiliate links.

How it's built, since someone will ask: one static HTML file on GitHub, auto-deployed by Netlify. I built it with heavy AI assistance (Claude did most of the code), then checked the partner tables against AwardWallet's guides and the banks' own transfer pages. Valuations update themselves through the API. Partner data is a manual edit when programs change.

What I'd love from this sub:

1. Anything wrong in the transfer tables? Ratios drift and I'd rather fix errors fast.
2. Which programs are missing that you'd want covered?
3. Is the prompt generator useful, or a gimmick?

It's free, there's no monetization, and I mainly want it to be accurate.

I went down a rabbit hole on this after a friend had a Sub lifted out of a hotel room and found out the hard way what his homeowners policy actually pays. Short answer: about $1,500. Here's everything I wish he'd known. US-focused, no affiliation with any company below, no referral links.

The two ways to insure a watch

1. Through your home/renters policy. Your standard policy does cover jewelry and watches, but theft has a special sublimit, and the industry-standard number is about $1,500 total, not per item. That's straight from the Insurance Information Institute. You can raise it with a rider, or "schedule" the watch on a floater at an appraised value.

2. A standalone watch/jewelry policy. A separate policy that only covers the watch. Usually $0 deductible, worldwide, and covers accidental loss and mysterious disappearance, which the base home policy generally won't.

The scheduled-vs-standalone question is the real one, and I'll come back to why I lean standalone.

Real 2025-26 rates, not "it depends"

The rule of thumb every carrier repeats is 1-2% of insured value per year. Jewelers Mutual says so on their own pricing page.

Professional Watches shopped six carriers with the same inputs, a $5,000 insured value, Denver zip code, in mid-2025:

Carrier |Annual premium |Payout style
Zillion |$56 |Replacement watch, up to 125% of insured value
Lavalier |$63 |Repair/replace
Wax Collect (Chubb) |$73 |Cash, up to 150% of insured value
Hodinkee (Chubb) |$73 |Cash, up to 150%
BriteCo |$60-96 |Cash/replacement
Jewelers Mutual |$89-96 |Repair or replace So roughly $60-100/yr on a $5k watch, and it scales. A $30k Daytona is realistically $300-600/yr depending on your zip. Your zip matters a lot, because rating is driven by local theft data.

Two things from that comparison worth knowing before you waste an afternoon:

• Zillion is invite-only. They only insure watches bought from partner retailers (Watches of Switzerland is one). If your jeweler isn't on their list, you can't get a quote at all.

The myths, ranked by how expensive they are

"My homeowners covers it." It covers about $1,500 of theft, your deductible eats part of that, and it likely excludes mysterious disappearance. Watch falls off your wrist at a bar and is never seen again? That's not theft, and that's the most common way people actually lose watches.

"So I'll just schedule it on my home policy, same thing." Not the same thing, and this is the one nobody thinks about. A scheduled jewelry claim is a homeowners claim. It gets reported to loss-history databases (CLUE, A-Plus, PILR), sits there for about seven years, and can raise your home premium or get you non-renewed. Losing a $9k watch and then losing your homeowners rate for seven years is a bad trade. Standalone specialty policies mostly don't touch your home claims history.

"I'm covered worldwide, it says so." Mostly true for specialty policies, and worth actually reading anyway. The gaps that bite people are the situational exclusions, not the geographic ones. Theft from an unattended vehicle is the classic carve-out. Hold baggage is another. If you travel with watches, ask the carrier point blank about the rental car, the hotel room, the stowed bag, the gym locker. Get the answer in writing.

"My watch appreciates, so my coverage goes up with it." No. You are covered for the number you declared, plus whatever appreciation buffer the policy has. Zillion's is 125%. Chubb's collector programs go to 150%. That buffer exists because watch prices move, and it is a cap, not a promise. If you insured a Nautilus at 2019 retail, that buffer is nowhere near enough today. Jewelers Mutual recommends re-appraising every two years. Do it. Or at minimum, log into your policy and bump the insured value when the market moves.

"Payout is payout." Cash vs replacement is a real fork. The Chubb-backed programs (Wax Collect, Hodinkee) pay cash at the insured value, which is what you want for a discontinued or hard-to-source reference, because you control the hunt. Jewelers Mutual and Zillion source a replacement, which is fine for a current-production Speedmaster and frustrating if your piece hasn't been made since 2011. Pick based on what's in your box.

"$0 deductible is always better." It's the default on most specialty policies, and you can trade it for a lower premium. If you'd never file a claim under $500 anyway, take the deductible and pocket the difference.

"The manufacturer's warranty has me covered." Warranties cover defects. They do not cover theft, loss, or you smashing the crystal on a door frame.

How to actually negotiate this

Insurance people don't haggle like a jeweler, but the rate has levers. Pull them:

1. Ask for security discounts explicitly. Home safe, monitored alarm, bank safe-deposit box. Jewelers Mutual lists these plus a "Gem ID" inscription discount on their cost page. Nobody volunteers them.
2. Schedule the whole collection on one policy rather than piecemeal. Bundled rates are usually better, and it forces you to inventory everything, which you should be doing anyway.

The questions I would ask before you sign

• Agreed value or replacement cost? Who sources the replacement?
• Is mysterious disappearance covered?
• Theft from an unattended vehicle: covered or not?
• Do you report claims to CLUE / A-Plus / PILR?
• Any storage requirements (safe, alarm) that void coverage if I don't follow them?
• What do you need at claim time: receipt, serial, appraisal, police report?

Do this today (free)

Photograph every watch, both sides, and photograph the serial and reference numbers. Save the receipts and warranty cards somewhere in the cloud. Keep a simple spreadsheet with current market value. Without the serial, a police report is nearly useless and a claim gets slow and painful.

I'm not a broker and none of this is advice on your specific policy. Read your actual policy language, because that's the document that pays or doesn't.

So what does everyone here actually do? Standalone, scheduled on the home policy, or riding bare and hoping? And has anyone actually filed a watch claim? I'd like to hear how the payout compared to what the policy promised.

Crossposting from my original post that bananas on the Rolex subreddit, adding some more details and insights from the past week.

Last Saturday, the 20th of June, I was in Amsterdam watching the Netherlands vs Sweden World Cup Match with some old mates (I lived in Amsterdam for several years about a decade ago). A bit after the match ended I started walking back to my hotel, the Okura, and when I was almost there I saw a guy passed out on the ground. I went over to help him, as I’ve done before many times in Amsterdam from over zealous stag partygoers, and shortly after I approached him I saw out of the corner of my eye another man approaching. I assumed he was coming to assist, but when he got to us he instantly grabbed my Rolex GMT Master II “Batgirl” and started pulling as hard as he could. The moment he grabbed me I came up from my kneeled position and was fortunately able to shove him away; my watch had the Easylink out because it was hot and humid, so it was painfully slipping off my wrist. He lunged back toward me and I punched him in the face hard enough that he instantly hit the ground. I stepped back, he got himself sorted and slowly back to his feet, and he then ran off.

Questions Answered and Insights

What happened to the “passed out” guy?
Absolutely no clue. People on the main thread have assumed the guy on ground was in on it as this is apparently a tactic used. I have no idea what happened to him; this initial tussle, punch, and retreat happened in mere seconds. When I saw the attacker run off I started toward my hotel and I saw motion off to another direction hoping it might be the police or a concerned citizen, but the person was rounding a corner in the dark (around midnight). The guy that had been passed out on the ground, who had just come to whenever I approached him and shook him, was gone.

Don’t you know you can’t wear nice watches in X city?
I’ve been doing it for decades without issue, but this time I was dumb because I was in a polo and that polished metal was catching every ray of light from the street lamps. We shouldn’t be attacked, but we have to be more careful.

Did I contact the police?
No, but I probably should have. I had a flight the next morning back to London and I didn’t want to deal with the process; the guys were fine and I still had (and have) my watch. My car was stolen when I lived in Amsterdam and the police didn’t investigate, they said they didn’t have the man power and the recovery rate was low. Fortunately, my insurance company found it in a shipping container before it left the dock.