u/Hungry_Pattern9127

Installed the 71create silicon carbide kit about 1k rounds ago. Theres a couple spots where it’s coming off. Did I just apply the adhesive too lightly? I’ve heard it’s supposed to last for a couple years

Wanted something smaller than a Glock 19 for summer, and I literally don’t leave the house without it now. Just clip it to my shorts in my Phlster Skeleton and head out. I am solely in non permissive environments so printing is big for me. I went down the pipeline of J frame vs this and Im very happy with my decision. this is better than a j frame in 99% of situations. I did have to drift the sights like most did, but once it gets a bit colder outside, I’ll send it back to SW. I just know that if I send It out before then, I’ll miss it thoroughly since I carry it so frequently.

you can see in the 3rd / 4th photo how much lower it truly is. on the ACRO, the irons and dot are visible but sliding the camera over, not even the irons are visible on the RCR due to how tall they need to be to be seen through the window

you can see in the 3rd / 4th photo how much lower it truly is. on the ACRO, the irons and dot are visible but sliding the camera over, not even the irons are visible on the RCR

FCD Gen 6 RMR plate is also goated. Roger himself told me to freeze it overnight to slightly shrink the metal then I had to tap it in with a mallet because the tolerances were so tight.

additionally, I woke up and shot right away it took a few mags for me to stop shaking. Not sure if that’s because my hands/arms aren’t warmed up, or I didn’t eat enough or what. Any advice there is helpful.

always been a direct mill guy but this feels pretty sturdy

The reason for this build was multifaceted. I recently turned twenty-one, graduated with my bachelor’s degree, and got accepted into my first-choice police department. Coincidentally, the department requires officers to provide their own duty rifles. Between celebrating those milestones and needing a rifle anyway, it felt like the perfect excuse to do a no-corners-cut build.

That said, I still tried to avoid wasting money on hype parts like $60 FCD dust covers. If I could genuinely justify a part, I bought it. I also took advantage of Tacswap whenever possible to keep costs reasonable. I figured I’d share some of the parts I chose and why I went with them.

Geissele Complete 12.5 Super Duty Upper:
I’m a big fan of the Super Duty series. I also got lucky with the color and ended up with a darker shade of DDC, which looks great in my opinion. I’m not going to argue 11.5 vs. 12.5. The only reason I chose the 12.5 was that I have longer arms. Otherwise, I probably would’ve gone 11.5 since the first word in SBR is “short.”

Unity Gascap:
I was on team clicky tailcap for the longest time. The cost, flickering issues, and cable management all kept me away from tape switches. Over time, though, I realized I wanted to activate my light without changing my grip at all, so I started looking into different setups.
I ended up going with the Unity Gascap and Modbutton because it checked all my boxes: low profile, backup tailcap functionality, and the ability to fully utilize the M640 Turbo's power. I expected issues with flickering or unreliable connections, but I’ve had none so far. I’ve been very happy with it, and I’ll probably start putting Gascaps on future rifles as well.

B&T Print-XH RBS SC:
10.5 oz, full-auto rated, and flow-through. Sounds good to me. The sparking has already decreased significantly, and I’ve only put around 250 rounds through it so far. Honestly, I’m suspicious that a lot of the people complaining about the sparking don’t actually shoot their guns much.
I’m running it on a Rearden Atlas Gen 2 Gunmetal paired with a Rearden SPB. The suppressor with the Atlas attached weighs 10.6 oz total.

Aimpoint T2:
I got mine in a trade a couple of years ago, so I didn’t have to swallow the full $900 price tag. That would’ve been hard to justify otherwise, considering the 4T Pro exists for nearly half the cost, but the T2 has been flawless for me. I also strongly prefer rheostats on red dots. The Unity riser makes it easy to run backup irons in accordance with department policy.

EOTech M33 Contract Magnifier:
It’s basically a G33 with capped turrets. I wanted something where the turrets wouldn’t spin freely. I found one on Tacswap for about the same price as a G33 plus an HRF AMC, so the M33 made more sense to me.
It’s mounted on the newer Unity FTC, and the setup has been great so far. I also got a killer deal on the mount and have been very happy with it.

Griffin MK2 Ambi Lower:
Arguably one of the best ambi lowers out right now. I’ve never been a huge fan of the LMT-style controls, and I think lowers like the Radian are a little odd since they give you bolt release but not bolt lock on the right side.
I think the Griffin’s right-side lever is the most ergonomic setup currently available for locking and dropping the bolt. It’s also about half the price of an ADM, and I personally prefer roll pins over ADM’s screws.

Magpul RSA QD:
I’m surprised these aren’t more popular. I’ve seen a few M-LOK QD mounts rip out, and on the shorter Super Duty rails, the M-LOK slots start farther forward than I’d like. This let me place the sling exactly where I wanted it. Plus, if I ever switch to paracord up front, I already have a mounting point ready to go.

Forward Controls Design Parts:
I know people have mixed opinions on FCD, but if cost were irrelevant, I think most people would run at least some of their parts. On this rifle I used their ASF-50Q safety, takedown pins, magazine release, buffer retainer, forward assist, and castle nut.
The takedown pins and mag release were mostly touchpoint upgrades, although I did use their extra-power mag release spring to help prevent accidental mag drops while slung.
The ASF-50Q is probably my favorite safety I’ve used. I’ve never been a huge short-throw safety guy, but paired with the Q levers, I can manipulate it without breaking my firing grip. I went with the Winter edition because the thicker levers felt better after trying both versions.
The castle nut, forward assist, and buffer retainer were mostly about reinforcing common failure points. The castle nut provides a larger staking surface, while the reinforced forward assist and buffer retainer are cheap insurance against small internal parts breaking and tying up the rifle.

TRex Arms Sling:
I bought it before all the drama. Otherwise, I probably would’ve gone with an Adaptiv Defense sling. The standout feature for me is the reversible pull tab. I run mine so pulling back tightens the sling and pushing forward loosens it. Ergonomically, that just makes more sense to me.
I’m not sure if other slings can be configured this way since I’ve only seen Trex and Adaptiv advertise it, but I’d like to try some others out. Just from looking at pictures, it seems possible on a lot of them.

sights looked slightly crooked at the LGS when I picked this up, so they realigned them for me. upon visual inspection everything looks good, but I’m hitting 1“ left at 5 yards, and it’s repeatable. what direction should I move the sights to fix this, and should I adjust the front or rear sight. also, how can I make a measurable shift to the sight and not just “hit it with a punch”? TIA!