Im trying to do a Milky Way composite but every time I make a mask for the sky, theres a blurry/ smooth line along the mask and i cant fix it no matter what settings I change in refine mask within Affinity Photo 2. I can fix the white outline but not the blurry part around the mask
Trying to do a Milky Way composite and every time I make a mask theres a blurry line along the edge of the mask, its not very very noticeable but its there, how do I fix this? I've tried changing settings in refine mask but its still there. I can fix the white outline but not the Blur part
Just bought and downloaded SLS for Mac and its nothing but problems... i took so many exposures of the Milky way and also foreground at blue hour, and it always says my exposure time is too long and too far apart and it wont align my images, and that my settings are different which it wont work. Every video I watch I do the same thing they do but its not working at all. This program sucks right now and it seems like a waste of $40
Has anyone run into the issue of using the Naztronomy smart telescope preprocessing script and it failed SPCC at the end? I used 2x drizzle, 0.5 pixel fraction, noise stacking, feathering, black frames bug and LP filter for the Eagle Nebula. Ive stacked data many times doing this but it wont SPCC this time, ive never ran into this issue. It says the catalogs are online too.
And also I opened the .og file it created thinking I could just SPCC manually but when I try to use Autostretch, the image is still black. Is this a bug or is there something to fix this?
I want to shoot the Perseides meteor shower with my R10 and i feel like using an external intervalometer would be the best way to approach it but im confused on how to set it up, if i want to shoot 20sec exposures, should I set the camera to Manual and 20sec exposure time, and then the Bulb setting on the intervalometer to 20sec or 0sec, OR set the camera to Bulb and set the Bulb setting on the intervalometer to 20sec? I'll be getting the JJC intervalometer as shown for my R10
Ill be in a great area for the 96% partial lunar eclipse this month but im debating whether or not to shoot it with a foreground or not. I shot a lunar eclipse before with a telephoto lens with just the moon in the shot and got the whole sequence. I now have a 100-400mm lens which is bigger than that other time so it could be more detailed this time around. Im in New England and trying to find a spot where the moon will be behind or near a subject id like is moee challenging than I thought itd be because of the south/ SE placement of the moon when its at its peak.
Most lighthouses dont seem like itll work with a telephoto lens, and Boston seems like it could be tough too, based on the moon placement. I'd like to use a telephoto lens because I want to make the moon bigger in the frame, but i could use my 28mm on my R10 if I really needed. Do you think its really worth going through the trouble of finding a spot, and using Photopills to get that perfect shot with a foreground element, or just shooting the lunar eclipse?
A few of my favorite pics of Mike Goulian from the Great State of Maine Air Show this year! Ive seen this guy so many times its always awesome to see how crazy he gets
Taken with a Canon R10 | RF 100-400mm
Just had 5 clear nights in a row... could only take advantage of 4 since I was working one night but wow I didnt think that was possible... so much good data and now the projects are backlogged I got so much! It is gonna rain so much the next few days so the streak will end but I feel like i hit the jackpot. Tonight, ClearOutside made it seem like it was gonna be an awful night with it showing mostly red and a little orange but Astrospheric showed clear for pretty much the whole night, and im glad i listened to Astrospheric because it ended up being very clear so I definitely recommend checking more than one weather app, clear skies!
If you dont change the size of the image on the Seestar S50, but want to move where the frame is, it will still shoot in normal mode without creating a mosaic. Kinda dumb how if you rotate the frame and move it it will still create a mosaic in Plan mode. Cus for a single panel "mosaic" im gonna lose half the shooting time. But Im afraid to update my seestar in case itll Brick so idk if I would matter to me anyway lol
Something that just popped up in my head - if you shoot a mosaic for let's say 3 hours, it wont be the same amount of integration time than if you shot a non-mosaic single panel for 3 hours right? Since the frames won't be stacking on the same spot the whole time, so would you need to shoot triple the amount of time to get the same amount of integration time?
Man I love nights like these, one of my best sessions while shooting the Fireworks Galaxy, I think I got 0.2 and 0.2 while doing calibration and it turned out to be a great clear night, it really goes to show that if you get the numbers as close to 0 as you can it will track and stack great
Just bought an Audio Technica turntable and now i can't stop buying records... collection is growing fast
Ive been using my Samyang 14mm f/2.8 for astro/ milky way /northern lights and im kinda getting sick of it cus its hard to manually focus with it and it doesnt seem like the sharpest lens there is either, and also not the fastest of course. So i did research and found this lens and it seems really good. Does anyone have any experience with it? Ill be using it on my R10
I first captured the Crescent nebula with my S50 on nights where the moon was pretty full. That was a little under 4 hours using 20sec EQ subs in bortle 6 skies. I wasnt exactly satisfied with my results even after post processing because I didnt have much of the center gas structure, so I knew I had to get more time on it. So I went out the other night where there was no moon and I was in bortle 4 skies this time, and I am absolutely blown away by the difference that made. I shouldn't have to say what image it is but the first one is the most recent one. It is only 3 hours and 20min worth of 20sec EQ subs, straight out the seestar, no post processing or denoising. So this is your sign to go out when theres no moon, and go to darker skies if you can. The results are insane
How do yall deal with nighttime animals? Stay loud with music or your phone? I was just chilling on my chair next to my seestar and some animal came up on me and I didnt realize until it was very close to me then I startled it and it ran away 😬 no idea what it was but im glad it wasnt a skunk or bear, well Im not sure if it was a bear or not... but what should I do about keeping them away lol
At the bottom of the finished stack of the object you shot, next to where it says Seestar S50 is an icon of a seestar on a tripod. And if you shot in EQ Mode this icon will be angled up like how your seestar will be in that mode, but if you shot in Alt-Az mode then it will be straight up. Just a funny detail I just noticed 7 months into my journey
My gf recently got a Victrola turntable and ive come to the realization that its not a great one especially after doing research on them, and because its been skipping on new records sometimes. Its level and all that jazz but it still skips so its definitely not a good turntable. And now im getting more into records so ive been researching and found the Audio Technica AT-LP3XBT seems to be pretty solid, but also the Fluance RT82. I think im leaning more towards the AT because I like the built in preamp, auto start and stop and Bluetooth function compared to the fluance. Not sure if ill use the Bluetooth since it could compress it a little but its there, and the reviews for it seem to be all positive for the most part.
How has people's AT been if they have that model? Im not looking to spend too too much (sub $400ish) but enough to get something that will last a decent amount of time and not skip. We may keep the speakers from the victrola but theyre passive so I kinda need a preamp unless I pay more for a preamp w the RT82. Also have other active thx speakers that I may be able to use w it but I have it connected to my tv. Im very new to this whole hobby so I dont know much. I appreciate any input
I have a Canon R10 and use a samyang 14mm f/2.8 when I shoot milky way or northern lights shots. But ive noticed that when i try to shoot the night sky with something in the foreground like a lighthouse or fence, those elements are out of focus compared to the stars or night sky. I am shooting at f/2.8 into infinity, and always try to manually focus the best I can before which the mark tends to be before that infinity focus line. But why are my foreground elements blurry or dont seem in focus? Do I need to focus stack and stop it down to f/8 and shoot the foreground separately then stack those in post? Or is this lens just not great
I shot the Eagle Nebula, or M16, or the Pillars of Creation for nearly 4.5 hours in bortle 5 & 6, using 20sec EQ subs with my S50 and stacked and processed in Siril. Absolutely loving the result! This was the first time I used the new SyQon Parallax script too and i think its great. I love this target! Gonna try to use a Hubble Palette script and see how that looks
I can never get sick of this ride, yeah its not the biggest or fastest but it still throws you around and you get some great ejector airtime! Its currently sitting at #10 in my rankings and im glad I live nearby it. I also like it more than superman, and its funny it doesnt seem to ever get too long of lines unlike superman. Here are some pics I took of it last time I went