u/KAG070693

My Magnifica Plus ECAM322.70.SB has started dispensing noticeably hotter coffee than it used to. The brew temperature is set to the low end and I never changed it. I'd like a sanity check on my thinking before I pay for service.

What I've already done, so please don't just say "descale it":

\* Descaled with genuine De'Longhi EcoDecalk, full cycle, completed properly. Still running hot after 8 to 10 brews since.
\* Water hardness is on the hardest setting, so the machine has been prompting and descaling aggressively.
\* The problem showed up right after the machine got used for about 4 to 5 days while it was already asking for a descale (I was away and someone kept brewing). Descaling twice, afterwards did not fix it.
\* Only prior repair was a warranty job a few months ago: they cleared a clog at the hot water / milk spout and replaced the entire 3.5" touch display unit. It ran perfectly for months after that.

My reasoning: as I understand it, a scaled-up machine usually brews cooler, not hotter, because scale slows heat transfer into the water. The one way scale makes coffee hotter is by restricting flow, so the water sits longer against the hot block. My pour speed and cup volume look normal. So I'm leaning toward the NTC temperature sensor reading low, or the main board not cutting the heater at the target temp. A cosmetic display swap shouldn't touch heater control, so I doubt the earlier repair caused it.

Questions:

\* Has anyone had the NTC temperature sensor drift low on an ECAM322 (or similar) and cause overheating? Is it a DIY-accessible part or a full service job to reach it?
\* Any known control board or firmware quirks on this series that affect brew temperature?
\* Roughly what should the hot water tap read on this model? I'm going to measure it so I have an actual number in degrees C.

Thanks in advance.

My Magnifica Plus ECAM322.70.SB has started dispensing noticeably hotter coffee than it used to. The brew temperature is set to the low end and I never changed it. I'd like a sanity check on my thinking before I pay for service.

What I've already done, so please don't just say "descale it":

* Descaled with genuine De'Longhi EcoDecalk, full cycle, completed properly. Still running hot after 8 to 10 brews since.
* Water hardness is on the hardest setting, so the machine has been prompting and descaling aggressively.
* The problem showed up right after the machine got used for about 4 to 5 days while it was already asking for a descale (I was away and someone kept brewing). Descaling twice, afterwards did not fix it.
* Only prior repair was a warranty job a few months ago: they cleared a clog at the hot water / milk spout and replaced the entire 3.5" touch display unit. It ran perfectly for months after that.

My reasoning: as I understand it, a scaled-up machine usually brews cooler, not hotter, because scale slows heat transfer into the water. The one way scale makes coffee hotter is by restricting flow, so the water sits longer against the hot block. My pour speed and cup volume look normal. So I'm leaning toward the NTC temperature sensor reading low, or the main board not cutting the heater at the target temp. A cosmetic display swap shouldn't touch heater control, so I doubt the earlier repair caused it.

Questions:

* Has anyone had the NTC temperature sensor drift low on an ECAM322 (or similar) and cause overheating? Is it a DIY-accessible part or a full service job to reach it?
* Any known control board or firmware quirks on this series that affect brew temperature?
* Roughly what should the hot water tap read on this model? I'm going to measure it so I have an actual number in degrees C.

Thanks in advance.

My Magnifica Plus ECAM322.70.SB has started dispensing noticeably hotter coffee than it used to. The brew temperature is set to the low end and I never changed it. I'd like a sanity check on my thinking before I pay for service.

What I've already done, so please don't just say "descale it":

• Descaled with genuine De'Longhi EcoDecalk, full cycle, completed properly. Still running hot after 8 to 10 brews since.
• Water hardness is on the hardest setting, so the machine has been prompting and descaling aggressively.
• The problem showed up right after the machine got used for about 4 to 5 days while it was already asking for a descale (I was away and someone kept brewing). Descaling twice, afterwards did not fix it.
• Only prior repair was a warranty job a few months ago: they cleared a clog at the hot water / milk spout and replaced the entire 3.5" touch display unit. It ran perfectly for months after that.

My reasoning: as I understand it, a scaled-up machine usually brews cooler, not hotter, because scale slows heat transfer into the water. The one way scale makes coffee hotter is by restricting flow, so the water sits longer against the hot block. My pour speed and cup volume look normal. So I'm leaning toward the NTC temperature sensor reading low, or the main board not cutting the heater at the target temp. A cosmetic display swap shouldn't touch heater control, so I doubt the earlier repair caused it.

Questions:

• Has anyone had the NTC temperature sensor drift low on an ECAM322 (or similar) and cause overheating? Is it a DIY-accessible part or a full service job to reach it?
• Any known control board or firmware quirks on this series that affect brew temperature?
• Roughly what should the hot water tap read on this model? I'm going to measure it so I have an actual number in degrees C.

Thanks in advance.

Hello together,

My setup:

- DJI Osmo Nano

- 4K, 24fps, 1/50 shutter, D-Log M

The problem:

The exported file plays completely smooth on my phone. The same file, once uploaded to YouTube, looks laggy and juddery, like the framerate is dropping. It's most obvious on motion.

What I've already checked, so hopefully we can skip the basics:

- Shutter is correct for 24fps (1/50)

- It's smooth on local playback, only choppy on YouTube

- I waited for the full 4K (2160p) encode to finish before judging

Context: I mostly shoot dynamic driving and POV content. Loads of creators post 24fps driving footage with basically my settings and it looks smooth, so I'm trying to work out what they're doing that I'm not.

Do you have any idea what can be the problem?

Thanks in advance.

2012 NC 2.0 6MT, 161,000 km (~100k miles), no service history on the clutch - no idea if it was ever changed. Metallic rattle between ~1300-1800 rpm, loudest when accelerating under load, gone above 2000 rpm. Most audible in 1st and 2nd. Been there since I bought the car - seller blamed a heat shield, one was cut off, improved a bit but the noise stayed. One mechanic guessed diff.

What I've tested:

- Revving in neutral, standing still: no noise (so not heat shield resonance, and not the diff - it's rpm dependent, not speed dependent)

- Steady throttle: normally inaudible, but driving between two walls with the window down I could hear it's faintly there constantly, load just makes it loud

- Abrupt throttle lift-off: some rattle at the transition too, but noticeably milder than under acceleration. Gentle lift-off: nothing

- Clutch half-depressed to the edge of slip: noise disappears

- Heat dependent: needs 20-30 km to really come out (gearbox oil temp, not coolant). Cold it's only there right off idle when the car resonates hardest

- Gearbox oil changed to RedLine MT-90 (2.4 l full fill), clutch/brake fluid fresh DOT 4: zero change

clutch bite point is high (top 50-60% of pedal travel). One-off hard shifting episode on a heat-soaked mountain drive (2nd and reverse notchy when parking right after), fine ever since.

Theory: worn clutch disc with fatigued torsional damper springs - torque pulsation passes unfiltered into the box, gear lash rattles. Explains the slip test, the load dependence and the milder rattle on lift-off. At 161k km on possibly the original clutch it would also just make sense. Engine mounts, PPF bolts and exhaust contact will be ruled out on a lift before dropping the gearbox.

Anyone had this exact pattern on an NC? Did a clutch kit actually fix it, or was it something else / just inherent NC gearbox rattle?

Hey everyone,

Looking for some advice on updating my NC suspension. I’m currently on the stock Bilsteins, which have about 150k km on them and are over 12 years old. They actually still hold up okay, but honestly, they’re due for retirement any day now.

I just got a really solid offer from a reputable shop for an Öhlins Road & Track installation. They have a kit in stock they want to move, so they quoted me €3,000 completely installed and dialed in.

My original plan was to go with Tein Flex Z or MeisterR. But by the time I import them and pay for installation here in Europe, I’m looking at around €1.8k to €2.2k anyway. At that point, the Öhlins seem like way better value for the money.
My absolute dream would be Xidas, but getting them into Europe is a nightmare. Just the coilovers alone would put me over €3.5k before even thinking about installation.

Here is my main hesitation though. I’ve spent hours reading reviews, and there is a pretty consistent complaint that the Öhlins kit has too short of a rear travel, causing it to bottom out on bad roads when you really push it.
I use the car strictly on the street as a weekend toy for touge-style driving.
The mountain roads around here are a mixed bag. Sometimes they're perfectly smooth, but sometimes they are absolutely horrendous. I need a setup where I don't have to constantly lift off or back down the moment the tarmac gets rough. I want to be able to keep pushing and actually enjoy the drive.
For those of you running Öhlins on bumpy backroads, how bad is the bottoming out issue in reality? Is it a dealbreaker for rough B-roads, or is the overall quality worth the compromise at €3k?