u/Main-Chicken-5994

too much gap? The walls are all out of square, so it was hard for me to cut all the sides perfectly; as a result, there are gaps of up to 1 cm in some places—is this normal? I still need to apply the joint compound and tape.

https://preview.redd.it/ta7wjxwypjoh1.png?width=1536&format=png&auto=webp&s=82d0d0688e58a0b60fcdbd4cee1eda8526a3a931

https://preview.redd.it/wscj8f10qjoh1.png?width=1536&format=png&auto=webp&s=a5c34b086c47c813645f7484ccb6e2cd95840139

I have a Makita DTD173, even using bit for plasterboard (the one with depth adjustment) I have difficulty using self-tapping screws, I have to set it to 1 (screw driving function) start it at low speed by pushing the upright in and only then does it enter, but I see in the video that the others manage to enter the studs by starting immediately at high speed

https://preview.redd.it/lvrp76g533lh1.png?width=942&format=png&auto=webp&s=88248c6d62b4b4a987a077767c981521fa477d2c

I need to install a 65m2 drywall ceiling. I already have a Makita DTD173. Honestly, I'd like to avoid spending more money on a specific drywall gun. I'd like some advice on which drywall drill bits to use. These cost €12 on Amazon.

https://preview.redd.it/c7kszz95pjjh1.png?width=1500&format=png&auto=webp&s=47f46e62ebb52bf2bff684457e2bf080c08d6c90

I'm also having another problem with my DTD173: when I hammer the wall plugs into the perimeter guides, I hammer them into the wall to seat the screw, and then tighten with the minimum torque, the screw head often gets completely eaten away. Why? I try to use a low speed, but it often doesn't grip. I use Bosch Professional drill bits.

https://preview.redd.it/blqjgy67pjjh1.png?width=640&format=png&auto=webp&s=4d3106feb176cb2de2a59ce52c1548f7e4eb8b0f

I'm looking for a video showing how to lower a plasterboard ceiling with roller shutter boxes. I'd need to create a C-shaped structure around the box. I don't want to completely cover the roller shutter box.

https://preview.redd.it/udedpa86ojjh1.png?width=1284&format=png&auto=webp&s=19e5455be45b9a33b52611b33aeb9f890a6a5e10

quale è il migliore tra marshalltown permashape gold e le altre?

per un lavoro non in gersso ma Fibre-reinforced and water repellent medium grain. (RASOMAX MAPEI) https://www.mapei.com/it/en/products-and-solutions/products/detail/planitop-raso-max

MIDEA A7 18000BTU O 24000BTU

ho un appartamento da 65mq da riscaldare e raffrescare, inverni con massimo -5 gradi raramente.

sono indeciso tra le due potenze

18000 BTU con capacita di riscaldamento di 6kw con SCOP di 5.1 costo 980€

24000 BTU con capacita di riscaldamento di 8,76kw con SCOP di 5.4 costo 1200€

ogni stanza della casa ha la sua bocchetta sopra la porta, infissi nuovi appena cambiati.

We scraped off all the old paint from the wall with a special machine, scraping off about 3mm.

The walls are now shedding dust, so it would be best to apply a primer.

Can I apply one coat of thick cement skim coat (we don't use gypsum plaster) and then a second coat of skim coat to finish?

https://preview.redd.it/ilvm51kbfbhh1.png?width=1536&format=png&auto=webp&s=55927066db97e1b9be029e91233d2f26c0b36164

https://preview.redd.it/py38me7dfbhh1.png?width=1536&format=png&auto=webp&s=e0500126be72b468bfc5292d2aac933d2539f02a

I have a problem with the screed; a lightweight clay screed was installed.

The problem is that in one room of the house, the screed was made about 1 cm higher due to a faulty laser. We discovered this later and replaced the laser. We've already scraped the floor to remove excess material, but the problem is that we couldn't level it perfectly with the sander. I tried following the laser, but it's not easy. Just press a little harder and a groove forms inside the screed. Also, as you can see in the photo, you can see the guides that served as guides for the straight edge. What should I do? Can I use an S2 tile adhesive that can achieve thicknesses of up to 15 mm, or is it better to pour in a self-leveling compound?

https://preview.redd.it/b512qzj1tqgh1.png?width=1125&format=png&auto=webp&s=2bf6a9e4e588331273661125e5ea8df333cb9686

https://preview.redd.it/t7lt90f2tqgh1.png?width=1536&format=png&auto=webp&s=5208301df88e01f851fcd02ac2cab71cc67179f0

Good morning, I'm looking for advice on some new tools to buy? As always, Marshalltown, Ox, or Nela? Which brand is better? I have a budget of €100 or less.

I'd like something I can use for almost everything. I usually do lime and cement-based skim coats, not gypsum-based ones.

I don't do it for 8 hours a day, but I often have to do entire apartments and I want the tool to make the job easier. I've always used inexpensive tools.

I read the Marshalltown Trowel Gold can be used for almost anything.

I'm wondering if this could help level screeds made with expanded clay, which are more granular than traditional sand and cement. I'd like to start avoiding the use of a manual leveling rod; my whole body hurts now.

Which blades do you recommend? I bought a set of 6 Bosch Starlock blades for €50, which was a total disappointment. Four of the six blades wore out practically on the first day of use. I was removing the frames of five windows, cutting small nails and the wood from the frame. I might be looking for cheaper blades that I can throw away without having to spend €10 per blade.

By now I’ve already bought everything, but is there really a need for the hammer drill if you already have a good impact driver and an SDS? I don’t do carpentry work only masonry renovations interior apartments.

I thought that what the banner drill can do, the SDS can do too.
And to screw and unscret, the Impact driver.

Good morning, I need to buy one of my last 40V tools, I'm undecided between these two the new HR0 11, and the HR0 10, honestly I would prefer the HR 010 for the low weight, I do apartment renovation so I don't need to make holes beyond 20 mm they are almost all 10 mm, plus I rarely do the concrete, almost always inside the load-bearing bricks, but I also need a small tool to demolish the tiles of the walls and bathrooms, for example or clean the wall to put the pipes of the electrical system, the only doubt That I have on HR 010 is the speed selector, I often find dubious information online, for me it is important that I can have the possibility to select the power during hammering, I read online that there is an electronic selector but I do not understand where it is.

The HR zero 11 definitely the best performing new machine, but also heavier than at least 1 kg, and costs me about 150 € more

TD003GZ 140€

speed
0 - 1100 / 2100 / 3200 / 3700

nm 20 / 50 / 170 / 210 Nm

TD004GZ 180€

0 - 1200 - 2100 - 3000 - 3900 giri/min

nm 60 - 130 - 210 - 230 Nm

I need it for a drywall ceiling in an apartment, but I would also keep it for other things.
I'm buying only xgt now (never had any of LTX), I would like to avoid buying the makita DFS LTX gun, by buying the accessory drywall screw setter for impact driver, it costs around €15.

And I can use an impact driver for other things too.. I already have the new HP003.

Which of the two TD XGTs do you recommend?

The TD003 has a lower torque 20nm , perhaps it's better for drywall?

also both have T-MODE could you explain to me what it should be useful for?