Annoyed by that little piece of filament that oozes out of the nozzle after a print, inevitably falling to the bed or getting stuck on the wrong side of the wiper?

Head over to your printer settings and adjust your end G-code. By default, it retracts by 1.5mm, which is not even close to enough. Increase the value to something like...

G1 E-5.5 F1800

Don't increase retraction too much, just enough to stop the oozing. Remember that material type and temperature will cause oozing to vary.
Hope this helps some of yall!

Testing to see how high I can crank those chamber temps.

My AD5M hits 68C with a few cheap Amazon acoustic panels and a blanket. I'm hoping to achieve similar results here.

Spent about $35 and maybe 4 hours getting everything perfect.

EDIT:

Seeing about 66C at 110 bed temp so far. Not the 70 I was aiming for, but pretty good for a self-sustained temperature.

EDIT2:

A lot of people are wondering... why?
Check out this video to learn a little bit about why high chamber temperatures matter for 3d printing. While the video is intended for significantly higher temperatures and different materials, similar properties exist in low-temperature materials.

This one opened the door for me a few years back. I just never needed the setup until now :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrQiUL0jAzc

Here’s mine. 28 hours in and the print just stopped for no reason. All parts are waste, no recovery methods are available. It’s been a known issue for a while - all you can do is just hope that your sliced file doesn’t cause the problem.

Thank god I just bought a new CC2 combo. I think I’ve experienced enough Flashforge magic in my years of ownership. The only upside this thing has is that I can reach 68C chamber temps in it.

^(The 3 years I've gone ^)

FB Event info
The meet is the last weekend of August, we have people arrive as early as Wednesday and some people leave as late as Monday. Most arrive Friday and check out Sunday morning! (27th-31st)

For anyone wanting to make a quick visit, the main event is Saturday morning at 10am as we meet at the bottom of Fontana Dam for photos and to hang out for a bit. Afterwards we head out to do a group lunch + some dragon runs! (8/29 @ 10am)

A handful of us periodically go on dragon runs throughout the weekend - communication is done through handheld radios as the internet is pretty spotty. Sometimes we'll do a Sunday morning hillclimb to see if we can catch the sunrise or get screwed by the fog again 😆

All in all, the trip has been a blast the last 3 years I've gone! Even if you don't want to drive crazy, the roads are great to cruise through and the slower folk tend to hang out in the back of the group, so you're not forced to drive fast if you don't want to.

Attendance is declining so if anyone new would like to come, be our guest! It's a bit short notice to any of you who are hearing about this meet for the first time, but it's hosted near the end of 'summer' annually. It's something I look forward to attending every year!

Most of us are staying at Fontana Village and resort. Cabins and Rooms are available - we have a hold on a couple of cabins until the end of the week if you're interested.

Hope to see yall there some time! Keep an eye out for next year's event too!

Hi, I've been having this issue since February when I bought the scanner.
Honestly I'm fed up with it and have been considering switching companies to get away from poor software... again. What are your suggestions for getting sharp edges on this part?

• IMG 1+2 depict the part and setup. Part is a dull black plastic covered in an appropriate amount of 3d scanning matting spray.
• IMG 3 depicts the raw, unprocessed scan. Depicted are the 'rolled' edges that occur from the parallel laser scan on 'black object', 0.15mm resolution, high accuracy, global markers, manually selected exposure and laser brightness according to the object of focus.
• IMG 4+5 depict the post-processed scan, prior to meshing. You can see how the 'rolled' edges are still there, and some edges still have bad data attached to them, even after utilizing the optimal settings and highest possible resolutions. This is the minimal effect I've been able to achieve after hours of testing. Some areas look 'okay', and other are horrendous. Noisy data, fat edges, etc.

Suggestions?

Computer specs:
Ryzen 7700, Nvidia 5070, 64gb DDR5 6000. These specs were not considered during their development (confirmed by support), as I had excessive crashing issues during my first 4 months of ownership. Perhaps that is contributing to this inconsistency between results. Some people get sharp edges, some don't.

Four years. FOUR YEARS OF OWNING A CRZ AND IT FINALLY HAPPENED

Was at the Magic Kingdom yesterday, didn't seem like they had a lot of merch or pins. Hopefully they're working on re-stocking.
Of what I saw compared to this link plus some new stuff:

In Stock:
Arcade Cabinet
Sling Bag ← Bought one :)
Helmet
Handle Bars
Lightcycle diecast ← Bought one :)
A couple of 'lightcycle run' shirts, jackets. Don't recall exactly which ones but they weren't the best looking.
TRON Vintage disc (Frisbee)
Slap Bracelets
Patches
Track Set

No discs, separate figurines, no coins, no hats, no wall sign, no lunchbox, no backpack(s), no light-up jacket, no identity chips, no remote control lightcycle, no cups, no mugs, no bottles, no keychains, no helmet bag, no lightjet diecast, no tumbler, no magnets, missing about half the pins as well. I didn't look for the magic bands at the main shops, but they weren't at the depot. It didn't look like anything was 'missing' or out of stock, but that's probably just how Disney goes - no empty shelves.

Only spotted 3 or 4 of the pin designs across the whole park and Disney Springs. They had the Tron Lanyard though, just no starter pack. No tron-themed mystery packs either.

Unfortunately didn't get to go on the ride. It closed twice and had VERY long wait times.

had to pass it down to the next generation

I had a batch of these mirrors made to sell in the US, let me know if you’d like to get a set! I’m asking $200, which includes shipping within the US.

Features:

-Polarized glass for glare reduction and reducing the blinding effect of excessively bright headlights from behind.

-1000R wide angle for blind spot elimination and better visibility

-OEM mounting (no adhesive, clicks in place)

-OEM heated mirror compatibility (for EX models)

-integrated turn signal indicator (optional wire tap)

I’ve had no issues with them on either of my crzs, the only problem I had was installation. After a few times practicing I realized that you can just hook it on, wiggle it left and right to seat it, then press inwards and it’ll click first try. Pretty happy with them!

Works flawlessly, but I still suggest checking your blindspots, as motorcyclists can be harder to see.