Do I NEED Elegoo Slicer for local remote control of CC2?
I've order a CC2 combo and tried to find this but no luck. Can I used a browser web interface to access and remote control the CC2 via IP?
I've order a CC2 combo and tried to find this but no luck. Can I used a browser web interface to access and remote control the CC2 via IP?
A couple months back I posted pycentauri, a local network toolkit for the original Centauri Carbon. I recently got a CC2 with the Canvas, spent a week reverse engineering its protocol, and v0.6.0 now supports both printers from the same package.
The CC2 turned out to be a completely different animal: MQTT instead of WebSockets, a different command set, token auth, camera on a different port. pycentauri auto-detects which model you're pointing at, so everything works the same way on either printer.
What you get (both printers):
centauri status, centauri watch, centauri snapshot, full print controlNew and CC2 only:
For the protocol nerds:
Everything learned the hard way is documented in the repo's PROTOCOL.md with dates and firmware versions. Highlights: the CC2 silently expires your MQTT session after about 6 minutes unless you send an app-level ping, its camera is an unauthenticated MJPEG stream on port 8080, both printers only accept exactly four print speed values, and the CC1's status push scheduler can go dormant at idle in a way that survives reboots. If you're building your own integration, this doc may help.
No cloud account, no Elegoo servers, nothing leaves your LAN. Apache 2.0.
Install: pip install "pycentauri[server]" then centauri server --host <printer-ip> (add --access-code <code> for a CC2, it's on the printer screen).
GitHub: https://github.com/bjan/pycentauri PyPI: https://pypi.org/project/pycentauri/
Hi Everyone,
We now have CC1 Canvas and CC2 Combo CAD. See below for status of each-
Files for all three printers can be downloaded from our github repository which also includes FDM optimized replacement parts for the base CC1.
Additionally there are live viewers for each printer on the OC docs for each printer:
If you can contribute to CAD revisions, especially for CC2 as none of the CAD-focused project members have one, please create a pull request on the github, or message on the OC Discord.
Hi, long time lurker, first time poster. I just received my Canvas this afternoon and got everything connected after a couple hours of tinkering. It looked like I did everything in the video, and the machine loaded up with the first startup. I installed the latest firmware update for the Canvas but now it appears that I'm stuck in a boot loop. The loading screen keeps coming up, it loads for a few seconds before shutting down and starting all over. I saw a couple of suggestions about unplugging the printhead usb cable and that at least starts the machine up before the printhead anomaly error comes up. I'm at a loss for what my next steps could be
Hi,
We printed a benchy with my kids new centauri carbon 2 printer.. It cam out great but what it the other "thing" it printed?
Any one have a fix for the filament not going into the poop chute?
I just installed the canvas yesterday and after getting it all assembled and firmware updated, I cannot get it to level the bed or print not in mid air. When I run the bed leveling program, it goes like normal and touches the first time in the front left corner but after the first touch, the fine tune slow touches are just in mid air, ~5mm. Anyone run into this, if so how did you fix it?
I've used holographic on my ender 3 for awhile now and they worked great. I just had it level the bed and off it went with no issues. My CC2 on the other hand DOES have issues. Mainly bed adhesion problems. I've tried leveling the bed (I have it do that before every print anyways) and adjusting the z-offset during the first layer to try and get the right squish. Has anyone else used a holo plate with their CC2, do you guys have the same problems with them, and what did you do to solve it?
I got my Saturn 4 Ultra yesterday. Doing the test print, I can't get it to stick to the plate. 2 tests, and it's glued to the PFA. All the methods say 'add supports from a previous print' which I don't have as I'm a first tine printer. How do I clean and remove the failed disks from the elegoo rook without damaging the film?
Just ordered the CC2 and that hood looks massive.
I'm just wondering if anyone had done any mods to make a smaller hood?
I was debating changing it so it can fit in a smaller space I have for it. I'll have a play once it arrives but thought I'd see if anyone else has done something before I start designing anything.
I've seen the emoji one has a smaller hood so it must be possible.
I've already got a 2 spool dryer so I'll keep the filament in there. I may need another one of I want 4 rolls but I'm thinking it's unlikely I'll need 4 rolls out all the time so may be able to get away with just 2 in the dryer.
The Hare model is straight out the printer, no finishing. Standard sized Benchy for reference.
Printed with a 0.2mm nozzle and a layer height of 0.1mm using Elegoo Cocoa Brown Basic PLA.
Recently switched from using Ender3 and Cura slicer to the Elegoo Centauri Carbon and the Elegoo slicer.
I've been 3D printing for several years now, but my first prints from the CC have had some ugly top layers. So I'm afraid I'm missing some obvious setting that I haven't had to consider before.
This print was using the 0.2mm standard preset in the slicer.
My cc has been having this high pitch buzzing sound since before i installed the canvas. I assume it was some fan so when i installed the canvas and replaced them it would be fine. But the buzzing noise is still really loud and annoying. does anyone know the reason?
So after waiting how many months? for the multi-color system to show up for the original Centauri Carbon, I finally got mine this week and spend the whole day installing it. After dealing with the upgrade issues (HINT: UNPLUG THE CANVAS BEFORE UPGRADING), I have this in and I am very disappointed. Skipping over the fact that IT DOESN'T WORK, I came to realize that I have now lost the ability to heat the chamber. Previously I had a nice little Chitu heater in there that worked just fine. Now of course, open top means no advanced filaments.
Biggest gripe is of course that it is not working. When I initially load the filament it will load just fine and go all the way through out the hotend. But when I then go to print ANYTHING, it starts then errors out with the above message.
I checked the tubing, checked the hotend, checked the new 4 hole filament feed, checked the cabling, all seems to be good. But it will stop with this message every time.
Also, I sliced the model with the latest version of ELEGOO slicer so I don't think it is a GCODE issue.
Gemini suggested tightening the gearbox spring so the filament is better gripped. Keep in mind you replace the gearbox when you upgrade so it is possible that it comes from the factory a little too loose.
All else fails, I will probably take the gearbox itself apart. One of the steps you need to do when installing the CANVAS is clip off little plastic flanges that hold the cables in place. I did that and did not see where they went. Just my luck they fell into the gearbox and that is what is jamming it.
In both cases though I don't think these are the issues because the filament feeds in and out just fine on load. It is only at the start of an actual print that it jams.
If anyone has any suggestions as to what to try next, I welcome them.
I love my CC2~ it's my first printer and it's AMAZING when it works. However I hit various snags about a month ago. The original hotend completed oozed out, the hotend I got with the bundled accessories pack was for the cc1 and didn't realize it wasn't compatible, and now this// filament is not feeding to the toolhead for some reason. By no means an expert and know this is a learning experience... but is this normal? Anyone else had this happen? I'm into month three or so of having it.
Spool 1 is in the nozzle. However, I cannot get 2, 3 or 4 to go through.
The spools turn, the feed takes it in a few inches which I take to the gearbox
I have turned 3-4 times the tension thinking maybe that was an issue but it's still having the same problem
All software is up to date. I actually uninstalled elegoo slicer on my computer and installed again to make sure I was good. Everything seems to read as it should but I can't get the filament to load
I try to send a file to it thinking maybe it will filter in but get the "Kind Reminder" Failed to feed filament from CANVAS to extruder. The filament may be tangle or the spool is jammed. It is not. That's the only error and then the flashing red light on the canvas
Did a search here and have no clue what more to try
Hello everyone, I'm looking to upgrade from my old ender 3 to a more modern printer.
Right now I'm looking at the Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 Combo. I've watched some reviews on YouTube that all seemed positive, but i'm not sure how much those creators have been influenced.
Does anyone have experience with these printers? Are they any good? How is Elegoo as a company? I'd love to hear any thoughts
Well, I forgot to go downstairs and remove my cover before starting this 50 minute print. Now I have a clogged nozzle again.
Anyone else find it silly to need to remove the top cover when printing pla? Am I the only one that has this issue?
Literally everytime I print pla with the cover on if its more than a 30 minute print I get nozzle clogs from heat creep.
I just don't understand why we can't use the exhaust fan to help exhaust some of this hot air from the chamber.
When printing pla the vents open but you cannot set the exhaust fan to more than 10%. What's the point if the fan barely runs.
Have levelled the bed, cleaned it, and calibration seemed to not work.
Pla did not change.
But it wouldn't stick to the build plate.
Like to receive advice.
Thanks in advance!