u/BlackShadow2804

Hey guys, I've been planning to Allison swap my truck, but now I'm considering doing a G56 instead.

However, I've been reading about it and it sounds like people don't really like it? Everyone says it shifts really slow, the clutch engages really rough, and it doesn't float gears well at all... which is basically the only way I drive manuals.

However, I've driven the NV5600 a ton, which is supposed to be a lot slower than the G56, and I feel like it shifts and especially floats great. I just don't like the feel or shift pattern as much

I deleted/removed my ALDA and am unsure what to do with the boost line that connected to it.

On my car it goes manifold > EGR valve > ALDA > bottom of UFO.

I have it temporarily connected right now, but my question is... do I need to keep the boost line connected to the UFO?

Also, if anyone here has both/either full electrical and vacuum line diagrams for my 1985 300CD that would be awesome! There are lots of components on this engine of which I'm not fimilar (like a sensor of sorts, on top of the intake manifold, near the back) and I'd like to remove as much as I can to simplify it all... hints starting with the ALDA.

Thanks!

Hey guys! So I was stupid and forgot to install the shift rail detents in my ZF5 during assembly, so now I have to figure out how to install them after, as pulling it apart again isn't worth my time...

I saw some videos where they just dropped in, but I'm guessing my case is an updated version or something as there are little seats that prevent the pins from going in all the way.

What's my best course of action here? Do they make smaller pins that will fit or should I drill out the seats/lips so I can get them down all the way?

Thanks!

Title. Rob D. is my go to for 5.9s, but unfortunately (and understandably) he doesn't do 6.7s, so I need to find a good source for my 6.7.

I wanna use the MM3 platform.

Thanks

I have the chance to buy a junk 1984 190e with the 5 speed.

Will the transmission and related components fit into my '85 300CD?

I've been tossing around the idea of doing a VGT swap on my truck... I don't need a bigger turbo/more power, I'm just wanting better spool... but that's expensive and I'm still not sure about it as I get pretty mixed opinions wherever I go.

So, for a cheaper alternative, for the time being, I've been reading about turbo blankets and it seems that they actually do improve spool, as well as other benefits, like heat soak.

My only concern is, I've heard it can "cook" your turbo, since you are holding all that heat in, and cause premature failure or other damage. But, I'd image, as long as you control your EGTs, which you would either way, it should be fine...

Does anyone have experience with them? Any reason not to get one, that I'm not thinking of?

Thanks

Hey guys, wanting to upgrade my 27" 1080p, but I don't want to spend the excessive amount on 4k... I also highly doubt I'll notice the difference between 1440 and 4k, so I'm considering grabbing this while it's on sale.

Would this be a good buy?

I'm in over my head guys... my buddy brought me this car saying it stalls when put into reverse. I thought, transmission issue? Easy! However, I figured out that was actually not the issue, but the engine/tuning.

Unfortunately, I'm a diesel mechanic, I have never done anything more to a gas engine, let alone a carbonated one, than replace the spark plugs and call it good. So that's what I did. I pulled the plugs and they definitely looked bad. The gap was ~ 0.050" which is substantially more than the manual specified 0.030". They also had pretty bad carbon build up, which from what I read is either rich mixture or retarded timing.

Anyways, I replaced the plugs and it already sounded a little smoother in the exhaust, however I don't feel right turning it back to him, knowing there are still issues. So I am determined to try and get this thing tuned right. But as said, I have no clue what I'm doing...

I read some stuff, watched some videos. I know there are two screws on the bottom of the carb for idle. There is also a curb idle and fast idle screw on the top driver's side? I couldn't figure out what those are supposed to do. I guess I also need a vacuum gauge and a timing light??? Not sure what that is...

Anyways, if anyone has a video or thread on how to do this, step by step, or would be willing to walk me through it even, that would be great. Unfortunately, as bad as I am with this, my buddy has 0 mechanical capability, so he's gonna end up having to pay a shop if I can't do it.

Any help would be amazing!

Hey all, I recently hit a pothole with my CJAA and of course it's better in every way. I didn't love the straight pipe sound, to me it sounded like a clapped out Civic or Subaru, so I threw an AT2525XL on it. The sound is definitely a lot smoother and it doesn't have that fart-can "bwap" to it anymore. But being the XL version, with the resonator, it is also quieter than I would like.

Now I don't want to be the obnoxious neighbor with the car that wakes up the whole neighborhood when it starts, but some sound would be nice. I really like the exhaust system that comes on the R-Line Jettas. It's got a good throaty idle to it, while still being mellow, and has decent volume once you actually get into it.

My initial thought was to get the AT2525 (non-XL/resonated version) but I've heard those tent to sound a lot like Hondas lol. Plus I figured it would be fun to try something new. I've heard Borla is good, but they said their products "aren't tested to handle the heat of a diesel exhaust" so they were absolutely no help in choosing a product.

If anyone has some suggestions on what I should get, that would be awesome!

Thanks!

TL;DR: Looking for a muffler/resonator with a smooth, but throaty/aggressive tone, that isn't obnoxiously loud at idle/low RPM, but can be heard well when you get into the throttle.

Hey guys,

I just broke out my Rock Rey again the other day after a few years and now I'm remembering why I stopped driving it in the first place. Not that it's a bad truck at all, it just has some small issues I need to fix.

1. The steering servo is much too weak, what is the best upgrade for that?

2. Something about the actual RC system is super buggy. You'll be driving fine, then suddenly no more throttle, but you can still steer. Then you have half throttle. Then full again for a while. Then non... you get the point. Are there any good systems to upgrade that?

3. The suspension doesn't necessarily have any issues, however I am a little hard on the truck and ended up bending one of the front struts. So if there are any more durable options, that'd be awesome.

I think those are my main issues with it... otherwise it's a pretty solid rig and I really like it.

If there is anything else I should upgrade, any suggestions would be awesome. I'd like to get this thing running good again.

P.S. what batteries/chargers are we running now adays?

Thanks!

Currently I have a Garmin Fenix 7X, etc etc and I LOVE the watch itself, the battery life, and especially the flashlight which I thought was a total gimmick...

That being said, as a smart watch it is trash and lately it's been randomly not showing/getting notifications, which is literally half the reason I had a smart watch.

I had a Watch Ultra back in the day (when they first came out) as well as a few others and I did quite like it. After that I had an Apple Watch Ultra and if I didn't hate the phone I would've kept... that was by far the best, most problem-free watch I have used.

Leaving the 28 day battery life will be quite difficult, but essentially not having smart watch features... not even getting notifications... is really starting to frusturate me.

Are the Watch Ultras still any good? Any reason to spend more on the newer one? Should I be looking at another brand?

Thanks

Hey guys,

So I have Xbox Series X > Onkyo TX-NR7100 > BenQ TH690ST.

The Xbox and AVR communicate great, Xbox turns it on/off no problem. The projector also gets turned on no problem.

For some reason, BenQ decided it was a good idea to only do one way CEC, so you have to manually turn the projector off.

Not a big deal, it has a 3 minute sleep timer however, for some reason, even with all other devices off its still "detecting" a source and then it stays on forever.

If I turn the projector off, it turns the Xbox and AVR off, but since the Xbox has a shutdown period, the AVR then turns back on, thinking it's supposed to be (I really don't know) which then ends up turning the projector on again... so I'm pretty lost.

I can't figure out how to fix it, but if I'm gonna have to get rid of the AVR/sound system if I can't cuz the Samsung speaker bar we had before worked just fine and having to turn everything on/off manually won't be fun.

My current settings:

Xbox | Console turns other devices on/off | Other devices can turn console off | Console sends volume commands (does work on AVR)

AVR | CEC on | HDMI Standby Through "Auto" (also tried "Auto ECO with no difference) | ARC off

Projector | CEC on | Power on link "From device" | Power off link "From projector"

Any help would be great.

Thanks