
Outrageous cost
Loius, a well known proponent of the right to repair, rants about the outrageous cost of a Carrier replacement part. I’m glad I bought a Goodman.

Loius, a well known proponent of the right to repair, rants about the outrageous cost of a Carrier replacement part. I’m glad I bought a Goodman.
I’m in the market for a new detector. I had experience with them 20 years ago but nothing recently. Now that I’m looking, it seems all three of the top of the line units have issues. For the Uniden, complaints involve their lack of firmware updates. The Escort seems too dependent on crowd sourced information and the Valentine still doesn’t have GPS.
I’m tempted by the Escort but I refuse to add another subscription to my life. Is it true they allow current users to renew the service without paying? And have they been doing that for years?
Lastly, is there about to be a generational change in this technology that means I should wait a year or so? I’d hate to make this investment only to find out I just missed buying the new thing that is going to be the new standard. That happens too often these days.
Initially I had 14 aligners at two weeks each. Now I’m on the “final” refinements, 14 more trays at one week each. Before I started these refinements I was pretty happy with the look but not the feel. My right side closed slightly before the left. I hope these refinements are going to fix that but I’m on number 13/14 and it’s not quite there yet. The dentist mentioned shaving down some enamel on the high side to get them to close together. I’m not very enthusiastic about having my teeth shaved down. How common is that as a final step?
Anyone have a successful rear cam install?
I like discount tires and have always had great service with them. But now I’m about to ask them to go above and beyond and I wonder if any of you think I can expect a good outcome.
I bought four new tires 2 months and 2000 miles ago. I specifically asked for a larger size due to enthusiast of this car had recommend it. They’re fine except they will rub at extreme turning angles. They don’t rub much and I can live with it but I’d prefer the correct size now. I’m willing to come out of pocket but I wonder if I can expect some credit for exchanging these perfectly good, newer tires. I haven’t read their policy yet. Does anyone know the best way to go about it?
My 2006 is new to me and I didn’t see any record of work on the headlights. Last night was the first time I drove at night. The low beams sometimes quit. When I switch them off and on the come back for a while. I understand it could be the bulbs, relay or ballast. Anyone have advice on which expensive thing to try first?
I’ve learned a lot from this subreddit. Last year I replaced a capacitor in a twenty year old condenser unit as a precaution. I got it at the local Trane dealer. No problem. Then this year I wanted a replacement board for a separate furnace so I went down to the same store. Something’s changed. The salesman there said they can’t sell to the public anymore. Tradesmen only, sorry.
I order the part by calling Trane. The lady on the phone told me I could pick it up at my local dealer, the same store! When I told her they wouldn’t sell it to me she said she’d make up a company name for me and that I should use that name to pick it up. I paid for it and had no problem. The same guy recognized me but handed me the part anyway. It was paid for after all.
The whole experience was weird and unnecessary. What’s up with this policy?
AI says that because my Ethernet connected Quad Tablo was on the same switch as my backhaul Orbi satellite, it can knock my satellite off if the system has been idle for a long time and then try’s to wake up. All I know is my three satellites work well until I try to use the Tablo app on my Roku which is connected to my Samsung TV. AI suggested I connect the Quad with WiFi instead. So I tried. Unfortunately the Quad doesn’t let me just change to WiFi. I had to do a factory reset to start over.
Before I did the reset I unplugged my external drive. After hours of messing with it I was able to get the quad back online. But when I plugged in the external drive all my recording were not available. The drive still shows 1.4 TB is used but no thumbnails and no recordings. AI says they will never be available on the Quad again. WTF? AI suggested I transfer all the files to my NAS and use a utility to make them readable by Plex. That’s next weeks project.
My question is, is AI right? Will the Quad never be able to see those recordings again?
Generic question really but does it matter how I leave the Plex app (or any app) on a Roku when I want to open something else? I generally back out of whatever app until I find the “exit app” prompt. But I can also hit hit the home button and open something else. Or use the hot key built into my Roku remote to access Netflix for example. Does it make any difference to memory or stability to just go directly to another app? Or should I make a proactive of backing out and closing the apps first?
WTF? System has been very stable for months. The second day I go on a road trip the option to view local recordings isn’t even an option. And since I don’t pay for cloud storage, I can’t view recordings. I suppose if I was home I’d remove and reinstall the USB but now I’m stuck. Any suggestions? Force quitting the app hasn’t helped. Delete and reinstall?
I put an outdoor2 in my attic to monitor a rat trap and see if I can identify the random noises I hear up there. It works at night but it won’t work after the sun warms up the attic. Does anyone know if there is a more heat tolerant model sold by Blink? Maybe the mini pan cam. It would also be nice to look around up there.
Most of the time he doesn’t do this but lately I’m hearing more. Tomi cannot offer multiple sales and/or offer to talk up a dealership to close a deal. I mean he can but not AND claim anyone can get these deals. It’s just disingenuous.
I’m using the new app on a Roku. Is there a way to adjust the size or color of the CC? How about on other devices?
I’m surprised to find that I don’t see magnetic tool drawer labels on the HF website. Am I searching wrong? Seems like the kind of thing they would sell. But I can’t find them. You?
I know better. I regret buying a 12 flex head ratchet wrench set the other day. $199. I like the Icon wrenches but I feel pretty dumb. As soon as I got home I looked into sales events and learned I just missed one by one day. I would have saved something like $70. Duh.
They have not been opened so the plan is to return them now or wait for another big sale. I presume the Fourth of July will be the biggest?
Assuming they don’t go on sale, would Craftsman be a better value?
I know this is not an airport and I don’t need to announce my departure so you can be assured I’ve already heard that. But, I sold all XDTE today, something over 5000 shares. Why? Because it’s time.
Last year the weekly payout was around .20-.25 per share. This year it’s more like .15. Like everyone, I was thrilled to receive the huge payout in December but less thrilled at the NAV erosion after that payout. I had hoped the weekly pay would return to last year’s level. That’s not happening. I expect there will be another big payday this coming December but I don’t want to wait for it and suffer the large decline in share price again. The history is short but it looks as if the price per share is setting up a pattern to crash after the December payout, a slow return to something higher only to crash again in December.
I waited for the share price to stabilize and sold. I expect it will remain in the 39-40 range until December and crash again unless there is an international event that crashes it in the mean time. But what are the chances of that? Right.
Now seems to be a good time to get out. I’ve already made enough in dividends so that I’m ahead in the grand scheme of things. So, although I lost capital in share price, I am ahead in general.
I am probably going to deploy the money selling covered calls aiming at 1.5% per month or I may increase my participation in CRF. They have an interesting scheme to allow participants to DRIP at NAV which can be very interesting.
Good luck to you. You taught me a lot in the two years I’ve been reading this sub.
As a recent SC owner I’m looking forward to meeting a few of you this summer. We live in Seattle but I’m looking forward to a gathering of SC’s on July 25th for a drive around Lake Tahoe. Anyone else thinking about joining that one? Are you going to join any other gatherings this summer?
I installed a soft start by micro air. It’s a simple wiring job and they even provide all four wires with connection hardware. I cut the power via the 50amp CB and the pull out switch located next to the condenser. I installed the device and then reinstalled the pull disconnect and flipped the CB back on. The CB immediately tripped. I’m not one to just try it again so I reinspected the install and couldn’t find any reason for it to trip.
I went back to try the CB again. By now it had been 10 minutes and I had discharged the capacitor while I was reinspecting. I flipped it on and it tripped but this time I tried it again. It stayed set. I tested the MicroAir flex and it ran flawlessly. My questions:
Is this most likely a symptom of an old CB? It was at least 23 years old but possibly 39.
Is it possible the first time resetting the breaker it sensed something like the capacitor loading up? But then the second try it works.
Interestingly, when I reset the CB first and then replace the pull disconnect, no problem. The CB stays set and I can run the AC NP.
What else can explain it?