u/NNTPgrip

Loving my 2k11 Pro so far, moved from striker fired P10F I didn't lube that much...or clean...

I lube my 2k11 before every match or practice.

Dirty oil gets all on my shirt around my holster by the end.

Have found I need to scrub shirt with toothbrush using Dawn dish soap, let that sit like overnight, then I'll hit it with Shout, work it in, let that sit like an hour, then wash. Its OK, still there but faded to the point of "almost gone".

Tell me there is a cheat code for this. What are ya'll using to get this crap out of clothes easy?

I want a 6 moa or 8 moa dot but don't want to do c-more railway(but I will if I need to).

I have 510c on my other rifles, but just got a jp-5 for uspsa and steel challenge pcc and could use a bigger dot (and JUST the dot)

I have a 507comp ronin on my P10F, used the screws in the box from holosun. I have seriously beat the hell out of that thing over the last three years, at least 65k rounds, one handed drills all the time racking using the optic off my belt etc.

I got the 407comp for my 2k11 to try the single 6 moa dot. TAG plate, used the holosun screws after a post comment about 87 vs 90 degree something or other freaked me out using the TAG included screws even after I grinded them shorter to not bottom out.

Welp, shot it all weekend, and got home and went to oil it, noticed one of the screws had sheared off. Got new T10 torx bits coming as I couldn't get the plate off and broke a bit, I hope I can use a little heat from a rework station or my soldering iron to heat that vibra tite up a little bit and I can back those out. I have another TAG plate as I thought my 2K11 pro might still come with the C&H but it came with the TAG so I'm good even if I can't get the sheered off screw out.

Back to carry optics for tonight's match.

My 2022 Subaru Outback with the big ol' screened head unit on I think is the latest firmware they will ever push for it (November 2024).

So, having a "faux carplay" screen open before that shows the connection stuff/used for initial pairing that then goes away and then goes into the "actual" carplay screen can confuse head units since this isn't how a wired connection direct from your phone behaves with it.

In particular for me like 25% of the time once actual carplay would come up, I would get sound but no "screen" and couldn't get into it no matter what I tried on my car's interface, and then I would have to pull the adapter (Ultra Mini 3), and plug it back in.

Been dealing with this for years over different adapters. The situation was better on my old Carlinkit 3.0 but would still happen from time to time.

So, I found this out literally two days ago, background mode stops that first screen from happening - so the head unit essentially gets it how it would expect it wired, as in, the first "carplay screen/carplay load" being "actual carplay"

In short, once you pair your phone to the adapter you don't need that first screen anymore. So, after you pair, log into the web interface and turn on Background Mode to avoid this problem all together(it seems - two days and counting). It also loads faster.

Other settings in the 192.168.50.100:

GPS Still don't know about if the GPS passthrough actually works or if that is iPhone model specific. (I have a 2nd gen iPhone SE) - it behaves like it doesn't and is still using the phone's GPS instead of the car's but I don't know how to definitively tell.

"Force display" attempts to always make your head unit switch "inputs" to carplay once carplay comes up - this seems to work for me.

Also, newest firmware is only for the CP and AA option, but it literally doesn't load any slower that the CP only firmware so no harm done.

The only thing I now miss from my Carlinkit 3.0 is the ability to tap and drag around the map to move it in apple maps. Am I missing a setting somewhere?