u/NNTPgrip

This happened a few times last night at practice, hand wasn't anywhere near the release (strong hand draw and fire man on man drill)

To be fair, I haven't cleaned this thing since I got it and am now at roughly 12k, I keep just throwing Hoppe's 9 on the railings etc.

I am new to 2011, do you really have to...actually clean stuff? Like the magazine release?

While I was waiting again for my next turn, while holstered, I worked it, hitting it, then seating mag click, hitting it, seating mag click, like 10 or 15 times and the next time I went up it was all good but now a little shy for my next USPSA so I'm going to use my backup 2k11 for next match.

TL:DR - Sorry if it's common knowledge, but does enough shit build up in the mag release to fuck it up and make the Mag drop after a round?

Edit: So I have two 2k11 pros, so looked at my Stainless vs Royal, I have shot my stainless a lot more than my Royal. It seems visually, that the magazine catch "nubbin" worn down a bit on the stainless vs my royal as far as I could see it wasn't a "travel" thing. So I guess this is a wear part so I have a couple coming from MJD.

Yep, definitely have been running into the heat thing not allowing anything to happen until cooling off again on my 3x as usual now that it's hot. (Virginia)

Last weekend after being parked in the sun for 6 hours, it was a good few minutes of me wishing I had the 4 before my car and the device cooled down enough to allow me to engage.

I would imagine the 4 still does it, tells you it's too hot to work, it just cools off much faster? The pocket of air right behind the windshield would have to cool as well anyway as otherwise even that larger fan would just be pushing the hot air around. Or, does the code because it knows it's on the 4 and the cooling enhancements, have different thresholds set to not even give you heat lock out since it knows it's cooling it a lot more capable?

I was going to skip the 4 and go to what was next in a few years since my 3x is running just fine, and I like the bigger screen for monitoring what "line" the model is generally going with, especially in curves or construction zones with tight jersey walls etc etc. (DTRv6 is pretty good, but every great once and a while it wants a "racing line" on curves - to be fair no longitudinal available on my car so it can't really slow down on it's own and it's better if I am more conservative speed-wise on that I have the cruise control set to - areas that are "all over the place curve-wise" I will sometimes just switch to MADS and just pretend I'm a train conductor)

We travel around and shoot matches everywhere within like a 3 hours from home. We see a lot of the same classifier around the same times.

Is there a podcast or something that people running clubs listen to to get ideas as to what classifiers to put up? Can't just be coincidence we've seen like 25-03 three times in the last month at different clubs.

I practice a lot and haven't broken anything yet(other than a knock-off charging handle), of course the minute it's hard to get parts THAT will be when something gives out.

What should I keep on hand? I see various "oops kits" and such, but what do ya'll think? With links to help everyone.

I might spring for a spare upper in case I wear out my barrel, I don't think I have the tools to switch a barrel. But what about the small stuff? I've got a spare BCG.

I have been trying to keep track of all this. So with ANY of the currently passed legislation, is rimfire still exempted from all of this?

Always wanted a Ruger Mark series, just not right now if I don't have to.

My credit card needs a rest, plus there are other things I might need to get that take priority, like AR spare parts.

Loving my 2k11 Pro so far, moved from striker fired P10F I didn't lube that much...or clean...

I lube my 2k11 before every match or practice.

Dirty oil gets all on my shirt around my holster by the end.

Have found I need to scrub shirt with toothbrush using Dawn dish soap, let that sit like overnight, then I'll hit it with Shout, work it in, let that sit like an hour, then wash. Its OK, still there but faded to the point of "almost gone".

Tell me there is a cheat code for this. What are ya'll using to get this crap out of clothes easy?

I want a 6 moa or 8 moa dot but don't want to do c-more railway(but I will if I need to).

I have 510c on my other rifles, but just got a jp-5 for uspsa and steel challenge pcc and could use a bigger dot (and JUST the dot)

I have a 507comp ronin on my P10F, used the screws in the box from holosun. I have seriously beat the hell out of that thing over the last three years, at least 65k rounds, one handed drills all the time racking using the optic off my belt etc.

I got the 407comp for my 2k11 to try the single 6 moa dot. TAG plate, used the holosun screws after a post comment about 87 vs 90 degree something or other freaked me out using the TAG included screws even after I grinded them shorter to not bottom out.

Welp, shot it all weekend, and got home and went to oil it, noticed one of the screws had sheared off. Got new T10 torx bits coming as I couldn't get the plate off and broke a bit, I hope I can use a little heat from a rework station or my soldering iron to heat that vibra tite up a little bit and I can back those out. I have another TAG plate as I thought my 2K11 pro might still come with the C&H but it came with the TAG so I'm good even if I can't get the sheered off screw out.

Back to carry optics for tonight's match.

My 2022 Subaru Outback with the big ol' screened head unit on I think is the latest firmware they will ever push for it (November 2024).

So, having a "faux carplay" screen open before that shows the connection stuff/used for initial pairing that then goes away and then goes into the "actual" carplay screen can confuse head units since this isn't how a wired connection direct from your phone behaves with it.

In particular for me like 25% of the time once actual carplay would come up, I would get sound but no "screen" and couldn't get into it no matter what I tried on my car's interface, and then I would have to pull the adapter (Ultra Mini 3), and plug it back in.

Been dealing with this for years over different adapters. The situation was better on my old Carlinkit 3.0 but would still happen from time to time.

So, I found this out literally two days ago, background mode stops that first screen from happening - so the head unit essentially gets it how it would expect it wired, as in, the first "carplay screen/carplay load" being "actual carplay"

In short, once you pair your phone to the adapter you don't need that first screen anymore. So, after you pair, log into the web interface and turn on Background Mode to avoid this problem all together(it seems - two days and counting). It also loads faster.

Other settings in the 192.168.50.100:

GPS Still don't know about if the GPS passthrough actually works or if that is iPhone model specific. (I have a 2nd gen iPhone SE) - it behaves like it doesn't and is still using the phone's GPS instead of the car's but I don't know how to definitively tell.

"Force display" attempts to always make your head unit switch "inputs" to carplay once carplay comes up - this seems to work for me.

Also, newest firmware is only for the CP and AA option, but it literally doesn't load any slower that the CP only firmware so no harm done.

The only thing I now miss from my Carlinkit 3.0 is the ability to tap and drag around the map to move it in apple maps. Am I missing a setting somewhere?