u/Patient_Pipe84

Hey all,

My broker just reached out to me with a prime - .90 rate for 5y variable (3.55%). From the looks of it, this is a pretty good rate. Coming off a 1.69 fixed. :(

We have $217k left and are thinking of moving in a few years hence the variable. That said, we also may be in a position to fully pay off the mortgage in the next year or so.

Does sharing this info (paying off mortgage) with the broker change the outcome at all?

Any other questions lemme know.

Hey friends,

Family and I (3 pax) have an early flight outta LHR T2 or T3 (heading to Berlin) at 08:50 on a Wednesday. We’re hoping for suggestions on getting there and how early we should arrive to get through Passport control and security. I read we should expect some delays and to give ourselves some extra time.

We’ll be staying at Hilton London angel islington and from a quick search we have a few options.

1. walk to islington green and take the 341 bus to Farringdon Station then hop on the Elizabeth line at 05:55 and arrive at LHR at 06:36

2. walk to angel islington, take the N205 bus to Paddington then hop on the HEX (more expensive than the first option)

3. Walk or uber to kings cross and board the first train at 5:39am. Arrival at LHR approx 06:44

4. Uber for around £60-70

Thanks for your help.

Hey all.

Looking for some suggestions on whether it makes sense to sell/move money from my RRSP over to my TFSA.

I'm 41 and make under $40K (Ontario) and will likely continue to earn similar into retirement. I'll have a small OTPP pension when I retire (I'm a sub teacher). My wife is the higher earner making close to $100K and will have a DB HOOPP pension when she retires.. We've got a 9yr old as well if that helps and my wife claims the household income-test benefits.

I've got $45K in my RRSP (VGRO) and roughly $90K of contribution room in my TFSA. The thought was to withdraw about $15K per year (keeps me under the lowest tax bracket) and contribute to my TFSA.

I've been thinking whether it makes sense to withdraw and fund my TFSA instead of continuing to contribute to it since I'm at the lowest tax bracket. Generally RRSP's are most beneficial when you contribute during higher income years and withdraw during lower income years in retirement.

If you need clarification or more info, happy to provide it.

Cheers!

Hey all.

I'm trying to help my Dad transfer his Locked-In RIF from Tangerine over to Questrade.

I started the process back in May by opening a RIF with Questrade and initiating the transfer. I got a message back from Questrade stating the following:

"Please be advised that your financial institution - Tangerine was unable to initiate your transfer request as per their note, "Plan Type Mismatch - LRIF cannot be transferred to RIF". Please contact your financial institution for clarification and advise us to reinitiate if necessary."

I'm assuming because the RIF is locked, that the account type is incompatible with the account at Questrade.

I guess my question is, which account within Questrade should I be opening?

Would it be a LIF despite the other account not being a LIF?

Thanks everyone.

Few questions!

1. Are Sail away and Guaranteed Stateroom the same booking code? “ix” for inside for example. Or are they treated differently?

2. Are there any restrictions when it comes to using a CFC for this type of room? I tried a dumby booking for a guaranteed inside and it seems to allow using a CFC?

3. Any cancellation restrictions for sail away/guaranteed? Or does the same free cxl before 120 days still apply?

4. I read (could be incorrect) information they you can’t add free at sea drink package to sail away or guaranteed - is this true?

Anything else I’m overlooking? Thank you!

Hey all. With the current $250/$500 offer, does it make sense to buy multiple (4x $250) since they don't expire? Obviously one has to be prepared to take 4 future sailings but other than that is there really any downside that I'm missing?

For reference, my reason for wanting to buy multiple is to take advantage of an Amex offer on my card, spend $1000 get $250 back.

Also, these can only be applied to bookings that sail more than 120 days out and must be 3+ or (6+ depending on the T&C), correct?

Cheers!

Looking for advice on whether it makes sense to drop collision coverage on our older vehicles.

We’re in Ontario, Canada, both drivers early 40s with clean records/no claims or tickets. Cars are fully paid off.

Vehicles:
- 2017 Chevy Volt – 225,000 km
- 2015 Nissan Rogue SV AWD – 140,000 km

Current insurance:
- $1M liability
- Comprehensive + collision on both
- $1,000 deductibles
- DCPD included

The Volt has a failed EGR valve that I’ve been driving with for a while. Repair would probably cost $2-3k but the car still drives fine. I’d estimate the Volt is worth maybe $3-5k maybe more if I’m lucky. Rogue maybe $8k?

We have around $25k in savings for a new car, although we’d likely finance part of a replacement vehicle if one got totalled or was prohibitively expensive to repair.

Collision coverage is costing us roughly:
- Volt: ~$330/year
- Rogue: ~$260/year

I’m leaning toward dropping collision on at least the Volt? (maybe both?), while keeping comprehensive coverage on both.

Curious what others in a similar situation have done:
- At what vehicle value/mileage did you drop collision?
- Would you keep it on the Rogue?
- Any downside I’m overlooking besides obviously eating the loss in an at-fault accident?

Thanks.

Looking for advice on whether it makes sense to drop collision coverage on our older vehicles.

We’re in Ontario, Canada , both drivers early 40s with clean records/no claims or tickets. Cars are fully paid off.

Vehicles:
- 2017 Chevy Volt – 225,000 km
- 2015 Nissan Rogue SV AWD – 140,000 km

Current insurance:
- $1M liability
- Comprehensive + collision on both
- $1,000 deductibles
- DCPD included

The Volt has a failed EGR valve that I’ve been driving with for a while. Repair would probably cost $2-3k but the car still drives fine. I’d estimate the Volt is worth maybe $3-5k maybe more if I’m lucky. Rogue maybe $8k?

We have around $25k in savings for a new car, although we’d likely finance part of a replacement vehicle if one got totalled or was prohibitively expensive to repair.

Collision coverage is costing us roughly:
- Volt: ~$330/year
- Rogue: ~$260/year

I’m leaning toward dropping collision on at least the Volt? (maybe both?), while keeping comprehensive coverage on both.

Curious what others in a similar situation have done:
- At what vehicle value/mileage did you drop collision?
- Would you keep it on the Rogue?
- Any downside I’m overlooking besides obviously eating the loss in an at-fault accident?

Thanks.

Hey friends,

Wife and I have been in our home for what will be 10 years in Nov and spoke about the possibility of moving. We checked out the resale inventory but haven't really seen anything we liked. Located in Ajax, Ontario.

I was curious what the options are for getting into a pre-con without having the deposit. From what I've read the options are pretty limited. Sell and use proceeds to pay the builder deposit and rent while you wait for your house to be built or go the HELOC/refinance route.

We've got quite a bit of equity and come mortgage renewal we'll have around $225K left on the mortgage. We're looking at pre-cons under $1M ideally.

Would love to hear what you guys recommend of have done in these situations. Happy to add any details you need.

Cheers.