r/Car_Insurance_Help

A driver backed up quickly while turning, against the flow of traffic, and struck the rear side of a family member's car, damaging the right side door, rear side panel, tail light, bumper and dislodged a rubber stopper inside the rear right trunk hinge. Both drivers have the same insurance company. The insurance immediately found the other driver at fault, and this is going on the other driver's insurance. My family member has been a customer for many years and always maintained strong full coverage including collision.

The body shop explained that because the damage includes a hole torn in the metal of the door and rear side panel between the door and bumper, and the vehicle is an older model year, repairing could be more costly than the value of the car determined by the insurance adjuster. Sure enough, the insurance adjuster is trying to total the vehicle, even though the vehicle is garage kept, has been very well maintained and runs beautifully, and has very low mileage for its model year. And the car would be much more costly to replace than the check insurance would provide for totaling it. In addition, it will be necessary to rent a car for weeks, and while my family member's coverage provides 30 days or more of rental, if the adjuster totals the vehicle, they would only provide 5 days rental. It's shameful conduct on the part of the major insurance company, but likely business as usual for them.

Hello! I drive a 2016 Subaru forester, light green. A jeep took a right turn on a side street and I continued to travel on the main road. Just as my car was passing the side road she did an illegal u turn and tried to re-enter the main road and ended up hitting my passenger back side wheel area damaging three panels. Her car has no damage cause it’s a jeep with the hard black part above the wheel. Being young and stupid, I agree to figuring out how to pay for it between us, but once I got the estimate on the Damage I told her I needed to involved insurance. Due to “figuring it out ourselves” the cop left without ticketing anyone etc. she then had her friend who showed up 5 min after the accident say she was a manager of a store near by and be a witness saying I crossed the yellow line to swerve around her. No video evidence of the crash but video evidence of her friend showing up 5 min AFTER the crash. The damage on my car is very obvious that someone hit me while I was driving away. Should I take this to the arbiter, her insurance found me at fault and my insurance found her at fault. Thank you for any advice and ask any questions!

I was recently hit by another driver in Arizona. She was entirely at fault, acknowledged fault at the scene, and the responding officer also stated she was at fault. We both have Progressive.

My car is a 2013 Toyota Prius c with ~115,000 miles, no previous issues, and was in good condition. I still owe about $11,000 on the loan and do NOT have GAP insurance. (Stupid. I know. I thought I had it through the dealer but turns out I don’t)

Progressive is now saying they want to total my car based on photos without even doing an actual repair estimate. The body shop I took it to says the damage appears to be mainly the front bumper, right fender, and right headlight.

I want to fight the total-loss decision and have the car properly inspected/estimated before they total it. I’m worried that if they value it below my $11k loan balance, I’ll be stuck paying the difference.

My passenger was also injured. She had a migraine and whiplash after the accident and is now experiencing soreness. She called Progressive to report it, but they told her they had no questions for her and haven’t contacted her about the injury claim.

I’m looking for advice from anyone who has dealt with Progressive/AZ insurance and a total-loss dispute.
Can I push them to get an actual repair estimate before totaling the car? How can I challenge their valuation if they total it? And what should my passenger do regarding her injury claim?

Can something be assigned to your profile in the background that drives incorrect vehicle quotes? If so, how do you find out what it is to get it correct.

2 drivers, ~40 years old

3 vehicles, nothing newer than 2014

No accidents or citations in over 5 years.

My combined vehicle kbb value is about $60k between all 3.

My state farm quote this morning was $402/month.

I've received quotes as high as $700/month

Currently with progressive at $200/month but even that's just high for what we have.

I've got friends in car groups with similar vehicles and drivers/history as me paying less than $150.

I’m 20 and my insurance company raised my parent’s insurance to $315 monthly (they were paying $143 before i was added) I only have my permit. However, I’m getting my license in a few weeks and I’m wondering if anyone has any idea how much the price is going to jump because I pay my portion of the insurance to my parents. For reference I live in Pennsylvania because I know location matters depending on price, my mom’s car that I drive is a 2023 Hyundai Elantra N Line, which I know can be an expensive car to insure. I called our insurance company and they were unable to give us a new quote until I have my license. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you!

My car was stolen and totaled on 8/8/26. State Farm valued it at $8,129, but my car lender disagrees with the valuation and is asking them to reconsider it at $9,609.05.
I signed a POA over to my lender because honestly, I figured they'd be better at negotiating the valuation than I would be.
The problem is that State Farm has been using incorrect-trim comparables in their valuation. I caught it and brought it to my lender, and they're now disputing the ACV with State Farm and asking them to explain how they arrived at $8,129.
The really frustrating part is that neither I nor my lender have gotten a response from State Farm since 8/13. My lender has sent them a detailed request with specific comparable vehicles from the CCC report and is asking them to either revise the valuation or explain their calculation.
Now State Farm has sent me paperwork saying I need to sign by 8/20, but they still haven't answered the valuation dispute or clarified what happens with that deadline while the ACV is being disputed.
Has anyone dealt with negotiating an ACV with their insurance company? How long did it take? Were you able to get the valuation increased?
And is there anything else I should be doing right now besides continuing to document everything and waiting for State Farm to respond?
I am SO ready for this whole car situation to be over. 😭

A driver backed up quickly while turning, against the flow of traffic, and struck the rear side of a family member's car, damaging the right side door, rear side panel, tail light, bumper and dislodged a rubber stopper inside the rear right trunk hinge. Both drivers have the same insurance company. The insurance immediately found the other driver at fault, and this is going on the other driver's insurance.

Not sure if this is the right place for this post, but my parents recently received a notice from their insurance company that it would be cancelled unless proof of my insurance is shown. I'm 23, live in CA, recently moved back in with them at the beginning of this year, and I've had my own separate insurance since I got the car back in April. When my mom called, the insurance agent said since their company was flagged that a new resident had moved in (me), they needed proof that I was either included or excluded in my parents policy since I had gone and applied for insurance for just myself. The agent said it's what's required in CA, and that she's hoping my information is what the insurance company is looking for. I'm sure maybe I'm just unfamiliar with how the laws work, but I'm wondering if this is standard or if anyone else has dealt with this.

When I applied for my own insurance as well, they had added my mom onto my policy but as an excluded driver without me evem mentioning it, but I assumed it's since I'm a first time driver, and we both live in the same house. But I'm unsure of why my information is needed if they were flagged that I had only reached out to insurance companies, and they would've seen that I already had my own policy + my parents wouldn't have taken all this time to add me on. Any help or questions answered will do a lot, thank you!

I have a not so good driving record (speeding ticket going 74 in a 45 in apr 2025, backed into someone and had to file a claim dec 2025, owe progressive $111, hit a deer in 2024 and totalled my car) basically I have to have proof of insurance by September 16th 2026 to bring to court because I got pulled over with no insurance and they said I wasn't wearing a seat belt even though I was just took it off when I parked while being pulled over. I am a stay at home mom and my only income was through doordash and I cant afford anything over $150 a month and that's pushing it. Already tried progressive, geico, state farm..is there anything affordable i can get before I lose my license in court?

Im looking to get some auto insurance quotes, but every website gives me pause for 2 reasons: the ones I've visited say they use several factors, including AI determinations, to build a quote. I do not want AI as a part of this process. The second thing to make me hesitate is every website saying they review all household member's driving records and use this to factor in your quote. I moved in May to a place with 3 roommates. I do not like the idea of their driving records, which has absolutely nothing to do with me, being factored into my quote. Is there a company that avoids these issues? I know most if not all the big companies do this, but that doesn't make it acceptable. Should I call them instead of doing a quote online? I feel like Ron Swanson, I do not want to sign up for endless marketing and junk mail, I do not want to factor in my roommates who are their own people and have nothing to do with me, all I want is to know how much their policies will cost. I know they need my driving record, but I do not want AI as a part of the process. Any suggestions?

I was unfortunately in an accident almost an year ago. My car was totaled. I was not at fault. The person driving was driving a work truck but claimed it was his personal use car instead of for work( what he told his insurance since he has no job). He had told me he just got out of work. After almost a year I Am still in pain. I had chiropractor appointments, urgent care appointments and steroid shots. I have over 10 bulge disk. I can’t stand to long or sit to long. I walk hunched back. I had just started a new job week prior . Had to quit because of no car. I doubt i will be working soon with all my health problems. My daughter was hurt but okay. She is mostly having a hard tome emotionally and mentally. The guys limit was 30 k per person. I had to hire a lawyer since he couldn’t be found. My bills are 27k they offered the 30 k since it’s the limit. After paying the lawyer i will get nothing after losing so much and not even healthy. For my daughter they offered 1k. Is there anything else that can be done? In California

Curious how people in Hawaii have handled this. If someone is injured in a car accident and the other driver’s insurance company starts offering money pretty quickly, how do you know whether the amount is reasonable?

Especially if the person is still treating and doesn’t know yet whether they’ll have longer-term problems. 

Is it generally better to wait until treatment is finished before discussing a final settlement?

Not looking for a dollar figure, more interested in what people wish they had known before dealing with the insurance company.

A couple months ago, without warning, Geico raised my monthly rate from $220 a month to $675. 

I called customer service and they said the reason of the of the increase is because their underwriters added numerous new claims to the policy.

I ask if they can email what these claims are. 

This is what they sent me:

01/04/2009 - Speed 16-19 Over The Limit

07/19/2009 - Speeding 1-1

011/23/2009 - Rear end At-Fault

02/10/2010  - Not Chargeable

07/01/2010 - Not Chargeable

06/25/2012 - Equipment Violation

08/20/2013 - Accident at an intersection At-Fault

03/12/2015 - Accident with parked vehicle Not At-Fault

08/24/2016 - Accident with parked vehicle Not At-Fault

For the record, I’m 40 years old. I have had a license since 2003. And, I have been with Geico for 11 years.

When I called back, the customer service rep I spoke with said that they never took those past incidents in account when my policy was originally priced and are now retroactively adjusting. 

I’m in shock. Can they legally do that??? 

I know I should just drop them and go somewhere else, I’m just pissed because I spoke to a “supervisor” after the first month and they said that it was an error and that incidents from 10+ years ago wouldn’t affect my policy and it would be adjusted. Well, it wasn’t. 

I was driving in the right lane on a 2 way street. I slowed down and put my blinker on to make a right hand turn into my driveway. The car behind me was either in a rush or just not paying attention, she tried to pass my car on the right shoulder while I was mid-turn. She hit the passenger side of my car and wrecked the mirror, then crashed into the fire hydrant near the corner of my driveway when she overcorrected.

She tried to lie and say I put my left turn signal on to turn into one of the houses across the street (where I was stopped, there was no driveway to my left. I would’ve needed to pull up 10-15 more feet to even begin trying to turn to a house on that side). She then claimed I just abruptly turned right and hit her.

I know the cops gave her a ticket and everything for improperly passing. My car is not super damaged, mostly cosmetic but it is now making a sound from the passenger wheel area she hit. Her car was completely totaled. Fire department got both of our insurances for the damage to the fire hydrant

I’m going through insurance and just wondering if there would be ANY reason I would be found responsible for any part of this incident?

I was recently in an accident where the other driver's Allstate insurance accepted full responsibility.

After taking the car to a local collision shop, it has been declared totalled, and Allstate is offering me several thousand dollars less than what I would need in order to purchase the same vehicle with the same mileage.

Is it possible to get them to do some sort of "replace in kind" arrangement where they pay for the same vehicle with the same mileage and similar condition if I can find one?

Edit: I am in New Jersey. My own insurance, Progressive has been entirely unhelpful because I agreed to file through Allstate.

Edit 2: Ok, I've got it. ACV is the only option.

So I had a 0% fault rear ending auto accident on May 4th. I have a letter from Allstate stating I am 0% fault.

The girl was uninsured. Totaled my car, her car, and I think the car in front and caused damage to the fourth car in the very front.

My car was deemed a total loss.

Car valuation seemed a little low. My 60,000 miles 2016 Honda Civic was given a value of $13450. I was told I was allowed to invoke the appraisal claim. I started that process and the appraisal business thought I should be able to get at least $15000 based on the condition of the car but maybe more. It says up to 18000 but that seems unrealistic so I think $15K is about right.

The appraisal costs $497 but I don't pay anything unless they get at least $1K of extra value so I thought it was a good idea to try.

Turns out I am not allowed to invoke the appraisal clause if the total loss is handled by uninsured motorist. I would have to convert to a collision claim in order to invoke appraisal. All the bodily injury stuff is still being handled by uninsured motorist and would stay that way.

I have been debating whether it would be a good decision or not to use my collision insurance for this total loss claim.

I have the platinum plan with multi accident forgiveness so no surcharge would occur for a collision claim. I don't think accident forgiveness actually kicks in unless it's an at fault claim.

I have $300 of vanishing deductible saved up that would be used up by filing the collision claim.

I don't think I would lose safe driving discounts since it is 0% fault.

"You may qualify for the Safe Driving Club if at least one driver on the policy has had no at-fault accidents during the prior 5 years and if you have continuously maintained automobile liability insurance for the 3 years preceding the effective date of your current Allstate policy. The more drivers on the policy without at-fault accidents during the prior 5 years, the larger the discount."

- would it affect future renewal rates when I file a 0% fault collision claim?

Any advice on whether pursuing the collision claim wouldn't cause rate issues in the future or dings on my insurability record?

Thanks!

Looking at my costs up front is the $497 for the appraisal plus $300 worth of vanishing deductible but I want to make sure there no additional unseen issues that I need to be aware of before deciding.

My daughter was in an accident in California on 8/8 (today is the 17th). She was found to be at fault. Police report filed, both parties declined ambulance.
The other party got a lawyer and is filing a personal injury claim. The only thing my insurance could tell me was “soft tissue injury”, said they will know more when they get the packet. Our coverage is $100,000 per person.
I’m terrified he is going to come after us for more or is truly hurt. The fact he got a lawyer is making me afraid he is going to sue us for everything we have.
Please help with any insight or experience you have.

I was rear ended today. I called my insurance to make a claim, they advised me to call the other person's insurance and get a rental car, set up the body shop through them, etc.

My insurance said that if I go to a body shop that's in their network, the work is covered for the lifetime of the vehicle. Assuming the other person's insurance is the same way, if their insurance's approved body shop is different than my insurance's approved body shop, would it matter? Would deductible/billing/coverage change at all?

If not, it sounds like I should call my insurance back and figure out what shop(s) is/are in network, correct?

Got a letter saying our vehicle hit an unoccupied car. I called the insurance company listed in the letter. They sent me pictures and provided me details. There are photos that our car and the car in front of us are literally touching.

THE ISSUE:
The insurance company said the accident happened at 10:30AM.
We have proof that our car had been home and left our garage at 11:30AM and it takes about 15 minutes to drive to the location of the alleged incident. That would’ve been at least 11:45-11:50AM.

WHAT’s NEXT:
I plan on driving to the exact spot to see if anyone has a video recording of that morning. WHY would our car rear end someone and left it parked like that? Who would even do such a thing?

I’m 100% sure the other car backed up into my car and filed a claim saying we hit their parked car because there is NO WAY anyone in their right mind would hit a car and left it parked like that.

I want to buy a car for my son. I have my own vehicle insurance (from G-CO). A few dealerships said that I need “full coverage” insurance to take the car off-site for a Pre-Purchase Inspection with my mechanic/shop.

How do I get this coverage for a car that I do not own yet?

Right now I have (Texas):

• Bodily Injury Liability: $30,001/$60,001
• Property Damage Liability: $50,001
• Uninsured Motorist Bodily Injury: $30,001/$60,001

Collision and comprehensive coverage seem to be tied to my own insured vehicle, not to some random dealer-owned vehicle that I may be considering buying.

I contacted G-CO and they told me that once I know the VIN and I’m final about buying the car, I can call them and add that vehicle to my policy. That makes sense after I decide to buy it, but it doesn’t seem to solve the PPI problem, because I want the independent inspection before committing to the purchase.

When dealerships say I need “full coverage” to take their car for a PPI, what exactly are they expecting me to have? Is there some type of temporary/non-owned vehicle coverage I’m supposed to get, or are they simply asking to see that my existing policy has collision and comprehensive coverage on my own car?

How do people normally handle this?