u/Practical-Zombie-761

Dear all!

Since ever I loved Pseudoscorpions and now for the first time I saw them to be sold online for bee keepers (which is a scam I would say, they indeed eat varroa, but they can't enter the enclosed capsules of the larva and therefore only eat at maximum the few varroa generally roaming around the hive). I quickly bought 10x and started to make a housing for them foowing this guide:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKbRcTT9nuk

It starts by taking a container with air ventilation and mixing of 50/50 sand and wet coconut fiber as a water reservoir (must be sprayed maybe 1x per week to keep slightly moist, picture 2), then adding springtails (biggest version that I found to be also a food source, some soil also went over, but not required, picture 3), then top it with wood chips the correct size to give a natural surrounding (picture 3). My Pseudoscorpions are called Book Scorpion Chelifer cancroides, so they naturally live between narrow areas in low light. The real food source is wingless fruit flies, but only the small variant Melanogaster has the correct size. As they quickly die without food source themself, I also added fruit fly food in a plastic dish, which made the flies also directly reproduce inside of the Pseudoscorpion enclosure (picture 4). Just don't use a big one as I this picture, 1 Pseudoscorpion died getting entangled in it (bottom corner) :(((. Put the food in a small dish like me so you can quickly get it out and replace, once it s depleted for the flies. Lastly I also found a female Pseudoscorpion laying it s eggs, but as it did not find any critter to make a nest she used dead fruit flies, pretty funny (picture 6).

Sadly I never saw Pseudoscorpion larva and all died within ~ 1 year, yet they should be able to live various years...

Something went wrong apparently, but I have no clue what. With this I just want to share this super cool micro Terrarium as a inspiration and whenever I might catch up again maybe people have also experience and might tell me what could have gone wrong, hence the ambivalent title...

Best greetings

PS: I will try to add a super funny gif to the comments where a Pseudoscorpion is thirsty on my hand and drinks my sweat with its pincers like a shovel ;)

Dear all,

I love the option to do *modern* battle zone fighting with all the new pokemons and mechanic, still I never used the UBER tier. Now I went inside and got horribly slapped. That s why I was thinking to build a team that is as fail proof as possible. And while setuo/suicide leads are risky as it heavily decreases the amount of usable team members, this team now even carries 2/4 as pure supporter/suicide leads.

The goal:

Use Trick Room and then Snowball with Calyrex' ability to 1-Hit everything with snow lance.

Setting up trick room is fail proof, only problem can be continuous flinches by rock slide leads. Another pitfall is wide guard enemies. Nevertheless all other pokemon are no match for this team and it usually goes exactly like in that video. All moves are perfectly calibrated even if they might look odd (no dark void / Spore and instead Misty Explode at smeargle). Still feel free to give any more ideas!

Will post the team further down as here it seems I can only post this video.

Dear all,

I am a little perfectionist so it bothers me more than usual, but in this situation it s a serious problem. Of I buy regular cacti and root them in half shade or wake them up from last winter then it s never a problem. But if I BUY monster size cacti and root them I am super paranoid about etiolation as it destroys the look and so the big ones I root directly in the sun during late spring / moderate summer.

Still only with the BIG cacti they etiolate in the beginning and then continue to grow normally. So it s not a problem of too low sun (see picture of the middle Peruvianus).

Now while the cactus itself might not care it s especially bad for these monster size cacti because it creates a weak spot and I ultimately will need to cut it there and can't grow the cactus straight if it just happens shortly at the beginning. Even putting that Peruvianus (latest in 2027 it will be 2 Meter) from basement to the balcony I felt really weird about stabilising it, it will rip in 2 parts definetly at one point.

Now it s obviously too late for these 3 cacti. But what is the reason that I FULL SUN they just etiolate at the beginning? I can't give even more sun and all other plants (as well as these cacti after 2-3 month) grow totally healthy in this max sunlight spot.

Anything else I could do differently? It even hurts my eyes to see this growth defect now forever :(( not even speaking about stability

THXXX

I know that severe sunburn will create beige scars on the cactus skin with the remarkable dead look like mummified. But now I have a case where it might be a soft sunburn with only stress of the cactus causing coloration.

Is that on the pictures a less severe sunburn? Compare the yellow colour on both pictures to the non-exposes sides, they are still green.

Anything I should do? Will this revert to a regular green or is this now permanent damage like the scarred beige plaque that full sunburn will give?

I never expected to get sun damage, I love in Central Europe with temperatures max. 40°C but that should be easily tolerated by these plants?? :/

Dear all,

I always enjoyed playing OpenMW and to get back to old times (Oblivion at the 360) I connected a 360-Controller-USB-Antenna with my PC and play MW with those old controllers.

Now I wanted to go more modern and also remove the requirement for antenna and bought Series X Controller. I can easily pair it with Bluetooth and it shows Connection works. But in game suddenly it does not work. As support is native, I do not need to change any settings (heck I did not even change something) to get it work. So why my new Series X does not work?

Sadly I have no other games than OpenMW that can use controller for checks.

THXXX

Shops which sell fairy shrimps often have pure eggs instead of just a collection of sand that they scraped up from a finished tank (picture) .

This is by far preferable because it allows exact dosing of the eggs. Also best case you put it on a duct tape so you can make it float underwater and not stick to the walls. Obviously if you would have 99% sand you can't really stick it to a duct tape.

Now to be independent of fairy shrimp egg sourcing I want to collect the eggs if my fairy shrimp after the tank is finished (they live for some months but the eggs need to dry out 1x).

But how do I separate the eggs from the soil? Even if I don't add any soil, it will naturally mix with the dirt that comes out of the fairy shrimp after eating - and algae sedimentation (I feed Chlorella). So how do I get the eggs out of this green slimy mix that makes up the bottom of the tank even if it was empty in the beginning? I can't think of any mechanical way to truly filter them out. Their size is 300 micrometer.

Still there must be an easy and standardised way to do it, because many shops sell it this way.

Dear all,

when my TrimUI Brick Hammer (NextUI) is in idle and I don't use it then of course it goes into "light sleep" AKA screen off.

While that is a smart move to save battery I will NOT remember its turned on after I shortly get distracted by other stuff. Then it will just drain its battery over hours and days until 0 %.

How can I keep the LEDs on while the screen turns off? This way I will instantly see if it is still on and either continue playing or turn it off propery.

THXXXXXX

I have a tiny Grow LED which is totally enough for my Aquarium Algae breeding. The only problem: light should be 16:8 on:off but the controller only allows 3 / 9 / 12 h on. Using an external time switch will also not work, because when electricity is back the LED will stay off and must be turned on manually, ruining the idea of the external time switch.

Now I am quite sure if I simply cut the controller both sides and reconnect the cables EXACTLY as they have been it will make the lamp to always on and I can use it with the external time switch.

Only problem:

Which settings will the LED be? It has 10 light intensity modes, will it be at the highest? If not that would ruin the plan. Also it has 3 different light spectra modes, which one will be chosen then?

If unfeasible I might open the box and use soldering to make it always-on and keep other functionality, however currently I don't know how to do that.

Thxxxx for any insights!