u/PuffThePed

Welcome to the wonderful world of resin printing. It's fun and rewarding hobby, but you need to be aware of the dangers, the precautions and the procedures needed.

1. The printer is just part of the equipment needed. You also need proper ventilation, masks, gloves, eye protection, a curing station, a washing station, a place to store waste wash, a place to work that is easy to clean. It's a whole workflow that requires quite a bit of time, space and effort.
2. UV Resin is nasty stuff. It's toxic and sticky and it gets everywhere. Exposure to fumes, or contact with skin, can make you allergic to certain compounds and glues that are common in house construction. It can make you allergic to BPA, which is in almost anything plastic. This can seriously fuck up your life, and once you get it, it's forever. Trace amounts of resin in your eye can cause permanent damage (for example, rubbing your eyes after you got a small drop of resin on your hand). Exposure (and damage) is accumulative. Small exposure over a long timespan is just as bad as a large exposure.
3. Resin VOCs are gaseous. A HEPA filter is a particulate filter. It doe's nothing for VOCs. NOTHING. This includes the air filter that comes with some printers. It's a placebo. A lie. It should be illegal, for the false sense of security it provides. Unless you are prepared to invest $1000+ in an industrial air filtration system, powered venting to the outside is the only safe way to operate a resin printer at home. The cheapest way to achieve this is with a grow tent. Opening a window is not enough. Read more about venting here: https://www.asianjoyco.com/resources-tutorials/ventilation-upgrades-for-3d-resin-printing
4. The above is true for water-washable resin as well. Many make the mistake of thinking it's less toxic because it has almost no scent. This is false. Water-washable resin just as toxic as regular resin. Less smell does not mean less toxic.
5. The waste from washing your prints has to be filtered and cured before disposal. Resin is incredibly damaging to the environment. Depending on location, you might be legally required to use special disposal services.

Watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onVNnRjbm5g&list=PLYdXhy9liQ5e2P-X3W9N4fQ1CvFK747GM&index=1

And a lot more here: https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/1861dmh/just_defended_my_thesis_here_are_the_compounds/

Have fun !

EDIT: For those asking "but if the resin is made from [WHATEVER], is it still bad?" The answer is YES. If a resin can be cured with UV, then it's toxic. Doesn't matter what it's made from. Learn more about that here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ht4tbCiFxeM

I recently bought a Crave subscription and installed the app on the family TVs. Samsung and LG.

The app is unusable on both. It lags, crashes, hangs. The video stops, stutters, loses audio sync. Can't get through 10 minutes of anything without problems. All other streaming apps work just fine. It's not internet bandwidth problem.

Am I missing something or the app just not functional? Who is paying for this service?

Seems the same specs more or less...

Yes, our beloved quality stoves and heaters manufacturer owns the shitty low-quality kits, maker of barrels and pods, Almost Heaven.

Heart, broken.

https://harviagroup.com/harvia-completes-the-acquisition-of-the-business-operations-of-almost-heaven-saunas-llc/

Heat is generated inside the sauna by adding energy to existing air. The energized air is bouncing around more, so it's lower density and it rises. The colder air gets pushed down. Air arranges itself inside the sauna based on hydrostatic pressure.

The gradient of heat is a function of the size and shape of the sauna. It DOES NOT differ based on WHERE the heat was generated.

Take a sauna and move the heater up or down, and nothing will change in the way the heat stratifies.

We need to stop telling people to place the bench above the rocks because then people try to improve their design by moving the heater. Sometimes into the ground. That won't help at all. I see people worried that their heater is too tall, again, that's not what you should care about.

We should tell people that sauna height is important, bench height from the floor is important, ceiling height is important, all of those matter. Heater placement or height of rocks does not.

Thoughts? Happy to discuss or be proven wrong.

I got a Homecraft Revive Slim with the regular controller (non-wifi). The heater is great but the controller is annoying for two reasons.

1. The timer starts countdown when it's turned on, and not when it reaches the target temperature. The maximum is one hour so in the winter when it's really cold, the timer runs out before the sauna is even hot enough. This is just dumb.

2. Worse, the controller doesn't store the temperature setting. I have to set it every single time I turn on the sauna, and setting it requires a long hold and then multiple presses to hit the right temp. It's not a big deal but doing that daily pisses me off.

The company has no incentive to fix these problems because their "solution" is to sell you the $500 Wi-Fi version, which has the amazingly advanced technology of storing a number in memory.

Is there a cheap alternative manual controller? It uses 24v for power and to control the contactor box.

I have a barrel sauna that's about 8 years old, it was used very little. A friend gave it to me, and we took it apart and reassembled it at my place. It had a wood stove that I discarded, and replaced with a Homecraft Revive Slim 6kw.

Electrical hookup is next week.

What should I test? Ramp it to 75c for two hours and see how it's doing? Check for things melting or catching fire?

How would you test and break-in a new heater?

Thanks!

I have a 6x7' barrel (200 f3 | 5.6 m3). I'm going to get a Homecraft Revive heater, and according to their documentation (and others too) the recommended power is 5kw. Dealer suggested I get 6kw, but not 7.5kw. He said:

> I generally recommend upgrading to the next kilowatt size for faster warm-up times, but I would not advise going any higher. Doing so can overwork the unit and its elements, which may negatively affect its longevity.

Is this true? Is it because it's going to toggle on\off more frequently?

If you have a barrel with an electric heater, it would be great if you could chime in with the barrel size, heater size, and how long it takes to warm up in the winter (and how cold are your winters)

I'm really torn between 6 and 7.5kw

Thanks !

I have a small barrel sauna (I know they suck but I got it for free). Electric heater.

I'm adding powered outtake vent under the bench opposite side of the heater. I'm wondering if that's enough, or if I should also add a DIY Saunum-like vent that pulls air from the top and pushes it out of the bottom.

Anyone with a small sauna can comment if a Saunum was an valued upgrade?

Thoughts?

Thanks!

I have a small barrel I'm upgrading from wood to electric. I know the problem with barrels but this unit was free so I'm making it work, adding a DIY Saunum vent and a powered output vent.

Anyway, the Huum DROP 6kw is very attractive in terms of size, shape and price. I've some pretty scathing reviews including our lord and savor Trumpkin's.

Should these still be avoided? Have you had a Huum in the past 2-3 years and are happy with it? Or not happy?

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks.

PS. I'm in Ontario, Canada and it gets pretty cold here in the winter.

I'm building my own heater controller because I've built kiln controllers before and it's pretty much the same thing. Felt like a fun project and why not save $1500 and end up with a superior product.

SSR excel at frequent cycling resulting in less temperature swings and finer control. I've been looking at heater manufacturers and most (all I've managed to find info about) have mechanical contactors inside their control box which they literally call the contactor box.

Any idea why? Cost saving? Historical reasons? Am I missing something?

Thanks!

First of all, yes I know barrels generally suck but I'm getting one for free so I'm going to make it work. I'm planning on adding a Saunum-like DIY ventilation system.

I'm also building my own heater controller system. I've made kiln controllers before and it's really exactly the same.

The sauna diameter is 73" / 185cm and length is 83 / 215cm. Volume is 205 cubic feet / 5.8 cubic meters.

I'm looking for a heater that's

• 220v
• Available to buy or ship to Ontario

How many KW do you think I need? I have a 40amp breaker + plug available for this, so I can anything from 5 to 9kw.

Any thoughts or feedback would be welcome.

Thanks !

I'm building a sauna and also my own heater controller. I've built a kiln controller before and realized it's exactly the same thing.

Does it make sense to have more than one temperature sensor inside?

Cheers!

The Saunum AirSolo pulls hot air from the top and pushes it out the bottom. Is that pretty much all there is to it? It's a $2000 device, can I DIY it with a $100 fan and a duct?

Context, I have a free barrel sauna that I'm planning on improving.