So i wanna wrap my car with a similar design just random shapes, its barely in the sun, parked indoors, driven like 2x a week usually. I’ll be using vivvid film.
My concers is that when i remove the wrap the design will still be there or residue will stay and u can partly see the design even after the wrap is removed. Especially that it’s black it may show more if it does
Do you guys just use regular steel with regular wire or go full stainless?
Im planning on going single exit, only thing stopping me is the super ugly hole that will be left. Any exhaust covers without spending hundreds of dollars?
I’m not sure if this makes sense but im wanting to run spacers on me car but im not sure if bolts are long enough to hold. I currently have advans 18x9+63 rear 18x8+54 front so very tucked despite width. Whats the max slip on spacer i can run safely?
So i don’t wanna deal with the tvd bs bc i heard it’s like 30k to fix. What are the signs its getting bad/it’s healthy?
I wanna do a deep clean inside my car. Can i safely remove the seats or are they using one time use bolts with specific torque spec
Somebody posted a clip of “obx single exit” on tiktok and it sounded pretty good but i like duals better. Anybody ever try this?
Car is lowered by like 1in all around and ill need to get an alignment, any specific things i should ask for or just let them do their thing?
Car is for pure street driving and nothing else, i just want the most out my tires, mines my MY02. Running 18x8+54 225/40 front and 18x9+63 255/35 rear
Dropped the car on springs about 1in all around and run 225/40/18x8 front with 255/35/18x9 rears with the same offsets as stock.
When I’m driving at a curve on a highway/doing a pull the steering wheel literally fights me BOTH ways. Sometimes it pulls left or right to the point if i let go of the wheel i will turn probably 20 degrees.
Planning to do an alignment but just wondering if this is the issue or i fked something up.
Thinking about buying a 1985 Chevy S-10 that’s heavily modified. I dont know shit about any of this as I’m more of a “modern car person” only reason i want this is because it looks sick af anf its pretty cheap at 10k canadian.
Seller says it has ~113,000 km on the body and about 5,000 km on a rebuilt “pro-built” powertrain. It’s swapped with a 4.3L V6, has a 471 blower (supercharger), FiTech EFI, built 4-speed auto, 11” lift, and 35s. He claims everything (engine, drivetrain, suspension, brakes) is built.
Does this sound reliable at all, or is it likely a money pit? Could something like this realistically be daily driven or is it strictly a weekend/show truck?
“Exhaust shop” charging me 500 to do the welds and i gotta bring the exhaust to them which is stupid so i found a guy on fb marketplace thatll do it for 100 bucks but i still need to drop exhaust myself.
Is it easy to drop the exhaust myself? I have 4 jack stands i can lift the car up fully.
Anybody rich enough to afford this foam on their shifter rebuild wanna get me the dimensions? I’ll just cut this myself and save 50 bucks🙏🙏🙏
So ive only driven like 4 manual cars and the s2k is the most jumpy/least smooth at low speeds and idk if its just my driving or somethings wrong. Its shifts great at speed but in parking lots/reversing its so jumpy. I do have an ap1/f20 so i know about the low torque but I’ve driven weaker cars First car ive ever driven was a civic, i cant remember then second was a fiat500 with a 3cyl and recently a 90s nissan truck with a v6 and they were ALL smoother in low speeds with a clutch easier to control.
Can anybody show pics of where to jack up so i can preload it to torque? Every thread/forum is is just explaining but i dont really know the terms too well and would be easier if i see
Can i retorque it with the wheels instaled on the ground or is there not enough room
First and second is just engine idling at operating temp, third is revving at around 3k rpm
Just wanna make sure so i dont fuck up. Fronts are up top and rears are bottom right? Also its the right way up with the words?
Do you guys fill it at the final crosshatch or near half like the 3rd X or what.
Just changed the oil last i checked it was 4/5 on the X marks on the dipstick and drove a pretty hard and “fun” 100kms or so and it is now down to 2 X’s. Is this normal? 2002 stock with 10w30
I just changed my fluid and i let it go a steady stream where its almost dripping and trickling, so like almost cutting off. I just copied what if was when i opened the fill hole first.
Is this too much? I read its a trickle and not a zero flow but i could be wrong.
So when i remove these nuts and put my new springs on, how much do i torque these or will they just stop with an impact? I cant find anywhere where they torque these. I found this helpful thread but they aren’t using oem shocks.
Also will i have to re compress the springs im putting in then bolt that top nut?
Last question can anybody confirm these torque specs in the thread are accurate? They talk about preloading suspesion before torquing but movie says how
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/diy-spring-shock-installation-303417/