u/RougeRaxxa

Slowing down the replay to 0.25 speed. The door was opened by the Lmp2 car. The 31 followed through. It appears the Ferrari was turning down to return to the racing line. And didn’t see the 31 there. You could argue the 31 drove into a disappearing gap as the Ferrari had to run its line. Race control made the right call of no further action.

After 8 years of plotting planning, then finally building it this year. My cyberdeck is complete. It’s really more of a desktop writing deck than a portable laptop. I believe it weighs at a hefty 10 lbs. optional work left to do: (that imma doing)

1. stream deck module
2. 8 bit do number pad module
3. add more greeblies
4. make a hinge stop so the top rests at the perfect angle.

As a red seal licensed tool maker the video I attached is what is happening when you try to assemble a GW push fit model. The tolerance on the mating fit is so precise that air gets trapped behind the pin as you try to push the model together. There are 3 things you can do to make push fit models assembled with less frustration.

1. Cut the pins a bit shorter.

The mating pins shouldn’t exceed more than 1.5x the diameter of the pin. Having overly long mating pins means you’re having to push harder to get the model halves to mate.

2. Drill out the holes.

By increasing the tolerance gap, you’re allowing air to escape making it easier to push the parts together. Alternatively you could sand a flat on the pins.

3. Cut unneeded pins off. (Or cut all of them off)

If you’re assembling a model that has a contour and the mating parts have a good alignment, you really shouldn’t need more than 2 mating pins. It is a general rule to have the pins as far apart on the model for accurate alignment.

With Armageddon pick ups happening tomorrow I hope this helps new players have a more enjoyable experience building :)

Anyone who’s built a Tamiya or Bandai push fit model knows how buttery smooth their assembly of their push fit models are. Idk why GW uses such tight tolerances. Both the mating pins and holes are 1.97mm🤦🏻‍♂️ That’s an interference fit. Increasing the hole to 2.5mm will make assembly much easier.

Privately owned apparently

Harting USB couplings are $70 each. $90 for USB A🤑 That’s what I had available to me, left overs from another build. They didn’t use to be that much. Nobody should be paying that. Just wondering what I should put here as I’ve modified the files to delete the holes I made. It’s also extremely tight inside for the wiring. Would you rather a hole be made for diy usb hub, a pass through hole for cables or leave it blank. Of course this is for the files I’ll be releasing. 🤗

Reprinted the bottom half in Asa and finalized the design in cassette futurism. Added some greeblies and magnets for future module attachments. Annoying the usb A coupling moved while the glue was setting. So I’m gonna have to fix that now. Also need to trim the white board so it fits, now that I have proper alignment with x4 M4 screws to screw the two halves together. Still need to finalize the design of the upper Kano laptop that will mount to the base. This is gonna be a thicc Chungus of a cyberdeck. Unfortunately my shorty cables were audio charging cables and not data cables. Fortunately I had some but spent a few hours making sure everything worked before gluing it. Which was dumb. I should have designed a hole in the bottom and used grub screw to secure the usb couplings 🤦🏻‍♂️ . I’ll make mods for the public file release when they’re ready.

I’ve spent nearly the last year since the 2025 show at the Roger’s center doing research into the architecture of Drag. I’ve had 3 main problems.

1. Lack of Information
2. Access to information
3. Learning to Read Cyrillic (Russian/ Ukrainian, ect.)

Starting off with the fact that the Soviet Union dissolved over 40 years ago, and being in Canada it’s an extremely niche topic. Both the Reference Library and Robarts Library (Fort Book) have a limited selection of rare books on Soviet Architecture that saw limited printing/ or are now out of print, or were never translated into English and therefore never left their native country. Some of them are valued at $800 or more so special permissions and “this is how you handle the book” instructions.

The concert cover art building was a Soviet apartment building. I have been unable to figure out who the architect was, or if the building is still standing. It’s definitely unique even among Soviet architecture. The spires we see in the back drop of Drag were easier to identify. Going around Toronto, driving out to Oakville and Mississauga looking at Eastern Orthodox/ Ukraninian churches they all have variations of the Orthodx onion domes, with a bit of Art Deco mixed in for the more octagonal/ less smooth and curvy ones. Which blends in the with skyline of Drag we got in the CD inner sleeve. At first glance I thought it was 1920’s Detroit. Which is appropriate for the 1927 movie Metropolis which is one of the first pieces of dystopian cyberpunk media ever produced. The buildings are dramatically over tall and close together to give the feeling of oppression and supremacy of the states power over its people. Last pics are of the 1920’s Detroit skyline and the gorgeous art deco eagle gargoyles on the Chrysler building. Which was also definitely the inspiration for the Magic the Gathering Set New Kapenna.

I could go on how the Black Parade was a marching band for the Tsar of Russia in 1914, and or how the rock opera we saw was playing out a 1960’s alternative history where a nuclear missile was launched. For me the black parade is a geo-political-historical fiction masterpiece. 🥰 It also helped me get through periods of depressions. I’ve bored you guys enough so I’m gonna stop here. 🥂

Almost done! I just have to reprint it in a galaxy purple pla pro. Painted Asa isn’t quite the professional look I wanted. Pleased with my door hinges and tidy wiring tho :)

I know GM internally will continue to use the Corvette as the bespoke sports car. But the CTS-V was such a cool race car.

Was scrolling and found this :)

Had with these. Do be aware that the plastic Asmode uses is different than GW Styrene and takes longer to melt/fuse with Tamiya plastic cement. I dropped the big Abominant and he popped off the base. Bits used:

Benefictus: Hel-smiths Urak Tar chaos magic swoosh, 4 warrior arms, acolyte head (40mm base)

Icon Bearer: Acolyte hybrid GSC icon top of staff, on
Benefictus double arm. Pistol hand from Acolyte as well.(40mm base)

She Hulk (Aberrant): Space Hulk Purestrain Genestealer hands, extra limb from I think Venomthrope kit. (50mm base)

Sanctus: Ripper Head, Lucius arm and Warrior Talon Arm, as well as Lucius base under models base rock. (50mm base)

Abominant: Hive Tyrant head with Venomthrope side tentacles, Lictor front tentacles, Killteam Barricade on Cadian Hydra (AA tank) Platform where the solider stands. (65mm base)

This happened a number of years ago at CTMP. The guy who crashed into 1st place was given the win, as his truck was ahead. After they got out, hands were thrown. I was reminded of this incident when the corvette didn’t get penalties at Laguna Seca.

Playing Immortal Rise of Fenyx and there’s a court house with a puzzle making the player participate in recreating the scene from Aeschylus’s play The Eumenides. Orestes was accused and punished for killing his mother Clytemnestra. As he wanted revenge for the death of his Father Agamemnon (who his mom had killed for abandoning the Greeks in the Trojan war). Having his mother killed angered the Furies—who demanded blood for spilled family blood. Naturally Athene presided over the court case as head judge and had 12 apostles assist her in a decision. It was tie and Athene had the deciding vote. Highly recommend playing the game. If you know your mythology it’s a treat. Narrated by Zeus and Prometheus. It’s quiet witty banter 😂. Game is assassins creed odyssey but focuses 100% on the mythology.

Aluminum base plates for keyboard housing done. Keyboard housing designed, printed painted in death guard green, installed acrylic window and cable management pass throughs. Left to do: the connecting arm that will open/close the deck. I’m really pleased with how this came out. I’m definitely going to make another one with just the keyboard portion and a smaller screen.

I’m 50% done my Kano Laptop cyberdeck it’s currently the case for the Kano (raspberry pi 3) laptop. Printed a case in Polylite Petg, transparent green. Next step is to make a case for the 8BitDo Xbox colab keyboard.

Current cost to build: Kano Laptop off Marketplace $100 🇨🇦

1Kg of Petg filament $20