u/SolitaryMassacre

I have a spot welder for DIY projects.

Thought I would replace my cells in my eBike/eScooter/eSkate myself to save money. But from what I can find online using this link the cost of batteries are incorrect on that direct link. But when I follow the links to buy them, they are like 6 bucks a piece. Which my pack on my ebike is ~104 cells, making that a 600 dollar project. Where a full replacement is the same cost.

Am I missing something here?

Maybe I am replacing them with better quality batteries? I guess I would have to open up the case to see exactly what batteries were used. But I am surprised to see this costing more than a new complete battery

https://preview.redd.it/4z1ii622v43h1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=acfdd66bf0fe645eb037ed6817fe2e8f93d2ce31

Laptop battery connector. (Maybe used a bit too much solder but was hard to get the iron under there)

Happy to help u/cave_maiden out with their laptop. A successful repair!

This is a part 2 from my first attempt found here

I think I made some decent strides! I added more heat from the bottom using this homemade setup. It works VERY well I quite love it.

https://preview.redd.it/8p82yezx0tyg1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=56b13db7ab55aef71413fae55e057a2e320e2da2

Here are the results:

https://preview.redd.it/yd0euqlz0tyg1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6e17bc2ac583634dcb9ff2688c5cb7eb5863b607

https://preview.redd.it/95couqlz0tyg1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fa6b6bb2fe78cac08161319089763a645202db76

I still had a bit of the PCB come off on near the solder joints. However, it only happened in the lower and left half where I started. I think I was pressing too hard with the desolder wick as it *did not* look like that before using the wick. I then pressed lighter for the top and right sides.

Would love some feedback! Thanks!

EDIT: Removing the PCB from the heatsink is impossible. Else, would have done that

I want to get rid of the noisy old power supply in my guitar amp.

Here is the circuit board that would be accepting the voltages. On the left side, you can see the plug pinouts. -HV(-18V), +HV(+18V), and +8V would be created from the 20V 100W power source (note: this is a PD 100W trigger board). Each input goes to a voltage regulator, for the 8V, I was just going to feed the regulator the +20V as it is still within its max. It is already attached to a heatsink (the entire chassis) so heat shouldn't be a problem.

https://preview.redd.it/ebih1d6q2fyg1.png?width=1456&format=png&auto=webp&s=7f6368821b9d3221fba2b63d58c96e270477c4d8

I found this: Generating Negative Voltages from a Positive Voltage Supply: Market Requirements and Solutions | Analog Devices

And it looks like I want a flyback inverter or power module (however, I think because of the circuitry, it needs to be isolated. So a flyback would be needed). I just am unaware of what flyback I need. A simple plug and play would be amazing. I can build it myself if needed.

The only reason I am wanting to use 1 PD trigger board is so it can function using a battery pack. This isn't a direct requirement and I am seeing what options I have. If this gets too costly/difficult, then I will simply add a second trigger board for the -HV circuit and use 2 battery backs.

The max wattage of the entire guitar amp is 60W with the speaker being 40W (20W overhead is probably the heat and such consumed). So a singular 100W trigger board should be more than enough.

Thanks all for the input!