u/SpineInABaguette

I've got the dreaded SOS error. Potentially caused by the 3.8 software update resetting the values of the SOS battery health - or so I understand.

Dealer has just said I need a new SOS battery which will cost £420 fitted, but I'm not sure I believe it.

I've heard that with the expensive obdeleven devices (https://obdeleven.com) you can read the SOS backup battery SOH and often it reads as fine despite the error saying it needs replacing.

I have a cheap Bluetooth OBD2 device and am using the car scanner app. But I can't seem to fnd the SOS battery SOH, I know I need to be looking in control unit 75 (telematics). All I can find is the error codes.

Do I need to pay £££ for the obdeleven device? I understand I can also use it to reset the learned values of the SOS battery.

But I was hoping to prove to the dealership that my SOS battery was actually OK without having to spend £100 on an obdeleven device.

Many thanks

I stopped paying for Care Connect a while ago as I could still use the app to control the charging of the car and turn on the AC remotely. But I've heard that v8.15 of the Skoda app puts the battery charging behind a pay wall? I presume part of Care Connect.

I've stopped my app upgrading so I'm still on 8.14

Can anyone confirm if this is true?

Many thanks

I've just bought an off brand Orthanc, the code on the instructions is 32020. I'm prepared for a lower level of quality and perhaps some missing parts.

But I'm struggling a little with the naming convention on the bags. There are way more tiny little bags than in a normal Lego set. And they all have numbers like 32020.30 with a larger 8 above. These numbers don't seem to relate to the numbers in the instructions.

Has anyone ever made a list of which bags come in which order? I've looked at 32020.1 and it does seem to have most of the bits for the start of Treebeard, but not all. Is it as simple as roughly going in numerical order?

Many thanks for any advice.

Just coming to the end of my IOG fixed term where I've been paying 3.49p/kwh night rate.

I co only see a new 12M fixed deal, no variable - then I saw the little note at the bottom (click pic to see).

When do you think they might start offering the IOG variable again?

We are redoing our bathroom and I was planning on a nice powerful 4 inch inline fan in the loft. The kids will never remember to turn it on and off so I was planning on linking it to a separate humidistat mounted somewhere on the bathroom wall.

We don't want it to come on with the lights as we will be going into the bathroom regularly without needing the fan.

Our electrician has said he's never seen a humidistat or humidity controlled fan that worked. They always either stay on all the time or never come on and he has strongly advised against it.

He said a PIR sensor would also be no good as they are too sensitive so would just always turn on the fan as soon as you entered the bathroom (it's 2m x2m!).

He just recommends a separate switch on a timer and forcing the kids to learn to use it!

Are there any good humidistats out there? Has anyone ever had any success with them? Or got another bright idea to automate the fan?

Many thanks

I'm looking for a PVC toilet unit to hide the cistern and pipes and and then use a back to wall pan. Like in the picture.

It needs to be PVC as it is right next to the bath, and I don't want to be left with a soggy MDF unit in a couple of years. I believe most these units are made from PVC with a foam core?

The problem is that PVC toilet units are quite rare and not in a very wide range of sizes. For some strange reason they are mostly 300mm deep which is way more than they need to be looking at most concealed cisterns. There are a few which are 200mm deep, but too short as I don't want the toilet lid to go above the unit when the seat is up.

I've found a taller unit that is deeper, but I was wondering if it could be cut down at the back - how does this pvc with a foam core react to being cut? Will it affect the structure? Will the edges need to be sealed somehow?

The unit is going into a nook so any edges cut at the back won't be visible, and would be sealed with silicone. And I would probably make a new wooden lid for the top to reflect the new depth.

Many thanks!

I'm planning a bathroom renovation. I was initially planning on getting a floor mounted back to wall toilet, and found loads of these "back to wall toilet units" for the concealed cistern to live in (see first pic). These really appealed to me as I wanted to be able to access the cistern and pipes for maintenance in the future - without having to tear down a tiled wall. These units seem to be widely used for floor mounted back to wall toilets. 

However then I started to think that maybe I wanted to go all out and get a wall mounted floating toilet, requiring one of those big frames on the wall (see second pic). I assumed I could find a similar kind of furniture unit to conceal the frame, but from most of the evidence I can find on the Internet, the vast vast majority of people who have a wall hung toilet, box and tile them in place - with the only access through the tiny flush panel (which is fine for basic cistern repairs - not so much if you have a leaking soil pipe or flush pipe). 

I've seen a few very rare furniture units that seem to be designed for wall hung frames, but they seem very few and far between. 

Does anyone actually ever do this with wall hung toilets? 

I just can't bring myself to permanently tile in all the pipes so they are totally inaccessible. 

Thanks

EDIT: If you have done this I would love to see some pics of how it turned out!