r/ukplumbing

Hi, i am going into level 2 of a plumbing apprenticeship in Sept and joining a new business - any suggestions, advice or ratings of the bag set up would be much appreciated (Veto Pro Pac OT MC).

I have a separate solder bag and also a bag for drain downs (2x foldy buckets, 1x rad tray and a funnel)

(Level 3 + Gas course)

Hello

I am refurbishing my bathroom and the next step is the plumbing of the sink and shower.

Due to the limited available space, would it be a good idea to install a pair of isolating valves to isolate both the sink and shower lines (Option A in the diagram)?

Or shall I try to go for a more standard layout as shown in Option B of the diagram?

Thanks for your help

Hi,

Looking advice. We recently discovered a leak below the shower tray, downstairs ceiling. I went in this morning via the ceiling as we are short for cash at the moment. The leak was coming from the waste pipe joint. Seals seem fine. Connection was lose.

House is six years old. We are second owners with NBHC, but we understand it only covers structural for second owners after two years?

The shower has a dome-shaped waste with an internal bucket holding a little standing water. There is a straight pipe out with no p-trap. Is this normal or should there also be a p-trap?

You'll also see that the builders have installed the tray on what seems like a piece of random broken MDF with pieces broken off here and there. Seems shoddy. Half a building site of waste, wood cuttings and wire outer also came out.

There is no membrane, not sure if this is now a normal thing?

The plaster board I've broken off and got rid of, as well as the insulation was soaked, there appears to be black mould in the area, a little on the joists but can be rubbed off.

Do I have any leg to stand on with the current development / house builders?

I've gotten rid of the black mould affected plaster. I'm fixing the piping myself then allowing the area to air out for a few weeks before re-plastering / sticking a trap door in. Anything else to be aware of or do?

Thanks for the advice.

Having bathroom renovation. Day 1, the demolition. guy came (no English at all). Accidentally nicked a hot water pipe under the floor. This guy had zero idea about how to turn the water off, how to drain the tank, how to stop the leak.

He ended up not closing the cold water, but draining the system from the magnetic filter. Got him to turn the water off eventually. Was it wrong to use the magnetic filter?

His manager said he would come and fix the pipe tomorrow.

Should we get someone else in or see if these guys follow through?

Ended up paying for a taxi for the guy to get home.

Can anyone help me to understand why my hot bathroom tap is making the awful noise and help me with a solution please? Thank you in advance

Hi Folks,

I have a slight water drip coming from the area underneath the gate valve where the copper pipe joins into the cast iron pipe, it is where the PTFE white tape is visible.

What are your suggestions please on how to fix this?

Thanks in advance

Hello,

It's not the first time I have attached the filling loop to add more pressure to the boiler. But now when I try to add pressure water comes out from the bottom black cap.

I never had this happen before. I have tried to tighten this by hand but it already feels tight and I am not even sure it can be done like this.

What am I doing wrong?

Does anyone know why this sounds would be coming from my neighbours flue/boiler/heating system?? We know this is the source of the sound because the noise only happens when steam starts to come out their flue. Sometimes the noise will only last 2 seconds sometimes 30 and it happens all day and night 🫩

I have a problem with the pneumatic flush mechanism on my c. 25y/o Grohe Adagio cistern. It had started responding unreliably to the push button, needing several tries. We've now replaced the button, hose, nipple, bellows and flush valve (photo here is before) -- changed all flushing parts. It now flushes, but often only on the 2nd press, especially after leaving it for some time. To the naked eye, the unsuccessful first press pushes the flush valve laterally, not down, although I can't rule out that the first press doesn't produce enough air/force. Has anyone seen this kind of problem before?

It was suggested I try posting this here for advice.

I am looking at potentially purchasing a home soon but unsure how worried I should be with the boiler and tank after a viewing. Its a repossession so everything has the 'Do not use' tape on it. The boiler to me initially looked fairly new but the house has been abandoned for over a year and I don't know much about boiler tanks and what to look for unfortunately.

If anyone has any idea, I would be very much appreciated as I would need to factor this into the cost.

Thank you guys

I’m staying at a hotel in Spain and there’s this rack-like thing in the shower. It’s about 5 feet long, made of metal. It’s attached only on the bottom and the middle. My guesses were first a towel rack, but the bars are too close together for fluffy hotel towels. Then maybe a shower seat, but there doesn’t seem to be a way to detach. Could it be a radiator? There’s also a dial on the bottom but the only marking are + and -.

Evening all, got a bit of a query regarding installation of a macerator as I've worked on existing installations but have not yet installed on on a new install.

Customer wants to put a en-suite in the master bedroom as in the picture, there is enough space in the floor void of 150mm for a 40mm pipe to fall correctly over the width of the room to the outside wall then connect into an existing 110mm pipe outside.

The shower and sink aren't an issue easy enough to tee together in the floor void. We have enough space to install a macerator behind the toilet, but what's the best method / location to install the macerator to the pipework?

It hasn't got to pump anything up and out, just need to chop everything up.

Do we need to worry about some sort of backflow prevention

Is it better to run the sink to the macerator first, customer wanted to avoid this and hide as much pipework as possible.

Thanks for any input.

Hi all, Im looking for a 10mm x 3/4 inch TRV Valve for 2 radiators. Radiators are original so 25 years old. I drained the system down last week, took off the current valve to realise the new 10mm valve with 1/2inch connector doesn't fit the existing tail. And the tail doesn't have any internal thread/hex nor any way to get grips or a spanner onto it.

I went into 2 local plumbing shops but neither had any and didn't think they were made anymore. I'm looking to put smart heads on atleast 1.

Don't particularly want to replace the radiator to a newer one just to have a 1/2 tail unless I absolutely have to.