I just bought this VanMoof s3, which has only driven around 500km. It is in really bad shape for that, but I noticed this weird colored front wheel. Can anybody tell me something about it, why is it golden?
Like it's not even the same warmth of the light and the right one is from 2020 and not really readable in the sun.
The left is from 2021 and functions normally
Hey, I'm pretty confident at repairing s3's, and I have my own for almost 4 years now. I would really like to get to know the tech and parts on the S5/S6 but don't want to spend to much money. So I thought maybe it would be a good start if I bought a non running S5 and tried to solve the issue. Are there any faults which I can relatively easily fix with my knowledge of s3's? For what price should I look for and do I have to watch out for a specific type of model or would you just completely abandon the idea? Thx
I was recently brought a broken S3 to diagnose. It showed err17 and 6, typical signs of the SMD fuse, so I tested it and it was indeed broken. So I changed it and wanted to delete the faults on the bms, so plugged it in an USB to UART, ran Knight1 script and couldn't delete the faults ("failed to read modbus registers"), it always tried to restart and then put itself in a mode where it wouldn't deliver power. I thought I couldn't fix it and just changed out the whole BMS for another one. Tested it again, still the same behavior. Every cell was completely fine btw and the voltages were perfect. So I just tested a few things and accidentally shorted VP and DSG while the battery was connected to the cartridge. I was scared it could cause a fire and put back the original BMS, and voila, it just worked normally in the bike. But out of curiosity I plugged it back into my computer and it still showed failed to read modbus registers. But since it was working in the bike I just gave the now fully working bike to the owner and told him to be careful when charging because I'm not sure why it's working again.
I was recently brought a broken S3 to diagnose. It showed err17 and 6, typical signs of the SMD fuse, so I tested it and it was indeed broken. So I changed it and wanted to delete the faults on the bms, so plugged it in an USB to UART, ran Knight1 script and couldn't delete the faults ("failed to read modbus registers"), it always tried to restart and then put itself in a mode where it wouldn't deliver power. I thought I couldn't fix it and just changed out the whole BMS for another one. Tested it again, still the same behavior. Every cell was completely fine btw and the voltages were perfect. So I just tested a few things and accidentally shorted VP and DSG while the battery was connected to the cartridge. I was scared it could cause a fire and put back the original BMS, and voila, it just worked normally in the bike. But out of curiosity I plugged it back into my computer and it still showed failed to read modbus registers. But since it was working in the bike I just gave the now fully working bike to the owner and told him to be careful when charging because I'm not sure why it's working again.
Hey there, I just made a really dumb mistake, I accidentally shorted VP and DSG+ while the battery was connected to my test wiring harness and cartridge. (It showed err17 / err6 and I was just about to fix it) After there was a spark, I immediately turned everything off and changed the whole BMS board just to be sure. The cell pack seems to be fine, every pack is at 4.079v and the battery is giving out the full 40v when shorting TST and GND. But I am just not sure if I can use the battery or not. My test cartridge seems fried and the cartridge does a buzzing sound when I plug in the battery.
I have a s3 battery with err6, 17 and 20. Replaced the fuse, resetted the battery via gnd rst and tried to erase the error memory with putty and uart. But it just shows me this when when shorting gnd and rst:
I am VanMoof BL V007 2022-11-04 09:32:30
PreDischargeLockCounter = 0
VanMoof Mode
PreDischargeLockCounter = 0
Shipping Mode
PreDischargeLockCounter = 0
FEDL5236_PowerDown_Start()
ChargeOn_Off() --> PB9=0
FEDL5236_POWER_DOWN_Set_Command()
FEDL5236_POWER_DOWN_Finish()
I dont really know what to do and would really appreciate any help. thx
I was just wandering what the power savings methods of the s3 are because VanMoof states on their website that, if the bike drops under 10% the support is beeing limited and even further around 2% left. At 0% the bike locks the shifter in gear 2, dims the lights and motor support stops working. But in my experience it was completely different. Os it because of newer updates or am I just hallucinating? In my experience the bike sends me a notification if charge drops under 20% and motor support is beeing limited. Then, at 10%, the motor completely stops working while all the other functions are still working normally with no dimmed lights nor locked e shifter. I also once rode in the dark with the bike powered off completely and it started to flash the front light as it is with a dynamo. Is this also a thing that the bike uses the current coming out of the front wheel as a power source for lighting when battery drops?
hey y'all I had my TV break down on me half a year ago. It didn't show any signs of life. I then brought it to a technician who said it was the mainboard and then showed me video of proof that when he changed it it worked. It was too expensive for me so I bought a whole new used TV with a broken display. I then changed every component like mainboard power supply tcon board and even some cables. It now shows me the logo then shuts down and shows a blinking red led (short long short long etc). I also don't seem to get to the android recovery system which lets me think its not a software issue. I read that it could be a faulty display which the mainboard detects after showing the logo when trying to send higher voltage to it. But I don't know. Is it a total economic loss? Or can I try anything?
so basically I just tried to change out my working, but old ignition lock. I put the key in position 1, put two stiffs in both holes and pulled on the key. The big black thing around the lock popped out and I felt that the lock was moving, but I couldn't fully get it out. After a long time pulling and trying I then turned the key to position 0 again to try again. But now I can't even get it to position 1 again and I think it's in a really weird situation where it's not fully out nor fully in so it's not working at all now but I can't get it out.
I bought my 190e 2.0 automatic a few weeks ago and want to check the oil level of the gearbox and maybe change out the whole filter and everything in the near future. I'm pretty new to cars so my question is, does the motor has to be warm and do I have to switch through every gear? That's what I already heard but I'm not sure. When the motor was cold, this is what the measuring stick said, and I don't even see a min or max? And why is it so bent in some places? Thx a lot
I have a s3, it can still sometimes still drive a few hundred meters, but then a ship symbol appears and then Error 42. Sometimes there isn't any response from the bike at all. So maybe a cartridge defect, broken KickLock or the wiring harness what do y'all think?
I had two broken VanMoof s3 batteries, both with Error 20, 6 and 17. I checked the cells, replaced them on one of the batteries, tested the fuse, which was broken, replaced it but it still showed Error 6. So I bought a USB to UART adapter and ran a GitHub script with putty. In the terminal, I deleted the deleted the error memory of the BMS and shorted TST and GND and voilá, it showed me the full output of 40v on the discharge ports. So now, both batteries are fully working again. If you have any questions or need help, just send me a dm and I will try to help you as best as I can. I am located in Münster, Germany
I repair S3's for friends and sometimes buy used broken ones and fix them up to resell them again, I am pretty good with fixing batteries, but many bikes have shifting issues. So, now I have like 3 broken e shifters, is there any way to diagnose them (heard of a GitHub project via UART) and get the board, if it's the issue, working again? And what do you guys think about revotronics, what is different about their boards, that they can claim its more reliable? thx
I had a deeply discharged battery, changed the whole cellpack, still showed me Err20, 6,17. I resoldered a new fuse, still the same Errors. Any ideas? Should I try to charge it?
I had a S3 battery which was deep discharged. I changed the cells and soldered the new ones to the BMS. Now, the cartridge is giving out Err20, 6 and 17. I already did multiple resets on the BMS via RST and GND and also Cartridge Resets. What could I try next?
I have a VanMoof s3 (Bike) with a dead battery and a lab charger. Before I try to charge it up manually, is there a way to test the individual cells? How would I do that, I am more at the beginning of my "electronic journal" but I want to try and understand it. Thanks
My s3 battery is deep discharged after it being stored for a few months. Now I want to charge it up via the discharge ports with a lab charger device. I would do it outside and watch it the whole time, but I heard some people saying it's really dangerous. I don't really have to lose anything more than a dead battery. But just to be sure, I read about checking the individual cells. How exactly would I do that? Thanks