u/TangibleHarmony

@72Kkg BW (climber mainly)

The squeeze felt so sick!
Already posted here a week ago a 5RM of 130kg, a weight which I only lifted once for 1 rep some 10 months ago, and had to stop dl’s due to MCP (knuckle) sprain some 5 months ago. Somehow came back stronger and today I had to try and see how much haha last 1RM was 140kg.
I actually think I can do more cause 130kg didn’t feel like I could do it for 5 like last time. But, hi, sweet ego boost! Psyched!

Hi folks
I have notice that posts with own set problems don't get much love in the board subreddits, which is understandable. So I am trying to create a sub where that's all we do. Come and post your own and be interested in trying other people's board problems! r/trymyproblem

In the video a problem I set yesterday having my pulley strain in mind, so big holds for right hand!
It’s called “Salmon Square” / 6C+

Both were set in mind as part of a right hand pulley strain, I think they came out really cool.
Fender Tender Strat is especially nice if you do it with a cross over, but it isn’t forced.

Leica M3

Primarily boulderer, but I love these. Haven’t done them for a while because of MCP joint (knuckle) sprain, but now that I’m back I feel stronger than where I left them. Interesting.

It used to be the camera work, but that actually got quite a bit better.
But now whoever is directing these comps is doing such a terrible job. I don’t understand. They have anyways turned into kind of a laughing stock already, can’t they get their act together? It’s not THAT hard. You see an athlete about to commit a move? How bout you just keep the wide angle camera live??
This happens again and again and again. It’s beyond me.

Felt good today 👌

My new program keeps on giving.
I have only sent one 7A+ before and it was a year ago, but super duper soft. Ply Pinches.
This one felt proper.
Next sesh Last Question is also gonna go down. So pyched.
EDIT:
Someone asked what the program is, so I paste this here if anybody’s interested:

I started climbing in October 2023 and moonboarding May 2024 (first 40° send)
Since then I felt progress up until let’s say six months ago. Then I got injured, but also realized my sessions were never predictable.

Meaning, I always showed up wanting to crush, but rarely actually had the juice to give. Then once a month I’d have this amazing session, which I never knew to say why it was THAT specific day, and it would be followed by another 4 weeks of mediocre performance. In the “good sessions” I would end up sending 6C+ benchmarks, and once in a full moon a 7A (just 3 ever sent until I changed my routine).

And then I stumbled across Charlie Schreiber and his guide lines.
I follow two principles:

1. ⁠I always finish session feeling relatively fresh
2. ⁠I stick to the intention
3. ⁠of the session

So my week looks like this:

- Day 1 / Super light kilter session - anything I can flash with ease, working on movement and flow. Effort 3/10

- Day 2 / Rest day

- Day 3 / Submaximal Moonboard sesh - anything I can send up to 2 tries. Maybe 3 if I did a dumb mistake. Effort 5/10

- Day 4 / Rest Day
- Day 5 / Rest Day

- Day 6 / Limit moonboard session

- Day 7 / Rest Day

I’ve been by now through 5 limit session days (so a month and a half or so) and the outcome is undeniable!
Every limit sesh I have showed up to - the juice was there and I climbed harder than I ever could.
I have sent 5x 7A’s since, 3 of them in one session - two of those I flashed and the third one only missed the flash attempt cause went first move with the wrong hand. So technically not a flash, but.. you know

The secret sauce of this whole thing is the management of accumulated fatigue. I used to always go until I can’t grab anything anymore. Some of it came from the frustration of wanting to show up strong, then not, so then just chasing dopamine (climbing as much as I could to compensate the unpredictable poor performance) until I had no skin.

This takes (I’m 38yo) time to recover from, even if my muscles felt good on a given day cause I rested two days in a row, my CNS was constantly fried. I completely didn’t know it.

Now, for example - I take wins and go home. That session I sent 3x 7A’s basically flashed?

Think about it - I barely climbed really.

But after the third send I said to myself you know what? I’m done. This is a huge session, I’m taking it and I’m going to do a work out now. Not chasing another 7A. Next Monday.
I hope that makessense.
It’s just so much easier, for me, to handle myself that way. I don’t feel the pressure to climb hard every session cause I know there is a designated day for it, and I know I WILL CLIMB HARD on that day. So it’s all good.

So then today I have sent a 7A+, and climbed another one two moves shy of flashing it. Worked on the top part a bit, gave it a few goes, and called it.

But this is huge for me. Before this change - 7A+ benchmarks felt IMPOSSIBLE. And now it’s like, yeah. It’s all there. I can project them and I will send them.

So, updated app. Now I can’t get it to work. It’s stuck on this page. Any experience with that?
iOS - 18.4

Tigger’s Bounce 6C+