u/TheGameBurrow

It’s not like the others I’ve seen. It has 10 individual strands of tinned copper wire coming out of it, with sheathing around those. It seems it was twisted and just crimped over those originally, but I’m unsure of how that will work without proper contact on that copper. You guys tell me, ever seen anything like this before? I know it’s an older set, and I’d like to keep it looking original while staying functional.

Edit: I see most are suggesting a new cable as these are someone’s backyard shenanigans. I’ll look into it long term, just wanted an answer to what I was looking at. Thanks.

This post is regarding engine rebuilding. Maybe some of you have worked in a machine shop before, so you can give some insight.

This shop specializes in engine builds, performance and street. The lead guy took some time to talk to me, about my extraordinarily large bearing clearances between my crank and main bearings(checked with plastigauge at home). I’ll include some photos of what those were when I measured with the bearings I had on hand (used but not for long.).

I took my crank to my local machine shop to have them mic it, so I can see the clearance and what bearings I SHOULD buy to fix the large clearances (.001-2 over or something?). He took me to the back and talked to me for about a half hour explaining how from the factory “within tolerance” could be a little tight or lose on the bearing itself, the bore, and the crank, so added up they can all change it, not just the crank. Basically saying micing the crank by itself won’t do it any good.

But he did go on a tangent about a solution I can do at home. To explain it simply, he said I can put the main cap by itself on a flat surface and sand it down very little, to reduce that gap in clearance.

Now, in the moment that sounded all good and dandy, but my buddy reminded me after I left, that doing that will take the bore out of round.

The machinist said they do that there, and even showed me their table and setup. Did he forget that you have to adjust the bore? Or is he correct in thinking this is okay to do at home?

Am I doing something wrong? I feel dumb.

Engine is a 400 big block. I’m literally just trying to get it mounted to the stand, but every video I’ve seen have people using the removable plate versions of engine stands (which I’ve tried and suck; engine is too heavy to turn easily!). Either way, I can only get 3 bolts in at a time. It’s as if the 4th is too far away to get into place.

Not to mention, the legs are in the way when it gets near the cherry picker. Tried to flip them up out of the way, but it just seems to still not wana bolt up.

It is a dual hose 1973 c body mechanical valve. Can’t find them anywhere online for a reasonable price, and when I ask people with parts cars they always don’t have it. Seems like these dual mechanical styles were less common.

When I took this off my car, I guess the heater hose was rusted to it and I wasn’t careful enough. It broke and since then it’s been constant heat or no heat depending on how I route the lines. Anybody know much about brazing or fittings? I don’t have a torch, so I’d have to borrow or buy some basic tools I’m sure. What would you guys recommend? Any place I could take it to to get it fixed?

(Last photo is for reference of what a complete one should look like)

Been wanting one for about 2 years now! Didnt want to pay the absurd prices, but then I found a Theta Data player locally at a McKays! With the rarity and price of it, I had to pick it up. Of course, it didn’t work.

After about a year of putting off fixing it, 3-5 hours of diagnosis, posting on reddit about the issues, waiting 2 weeks for a replacement laser, and 3 hours of installation/ dialing in the adjustment/ figuring out the difference between digital sound and regular sound on these units, I FINALLY got it to work as I had hoped!

The dopamine hit hard tonight. It’s a wonderful feeling, and it looks even better on my PVM-1354Q using S video!

PS- I heard the CDV 400 units this Theta 2 derived from have RGB capabilities. Anybody know if modding one to accept scart would be possible? Would love an RGB output for even better quality if that’s an option.

I noticed in glamor profession, he says “I drove the Chrysler”. I also drive a Chrysler. I’m curious, what Chrysler do we think they drove?

I need a KHS-310A. Not sure if any of you have luck with any aftermarket lasers, but I’d really like to get my player working again. Let me know what you guys recommend. I’ve also seen some on Ali express, but much more expensive.

According to what I know this is a PHILIPS CDV 400 Clone.

I’ve been trying to use my resources to help me diagnose this issue with my player. The player will detect a CD or a laserdisc, attempt to hunt for a position, and it’ll spin a CD, but not a laserdisc. Neither of which actually play. Eventually, after a few seconds, both spit back out.

I’ll post a video of what I’m seeing/ hearing. The player is making this weird tapping noise, and I got a video of it doing so from a side angle while spinning a disc. I’m not sure if it’s physically hitting the disc, or the laser just isn’t reading it because it’s bad, so it pushes up and continues hunting till it limits out and bounces back down.

I am not super familiar with this stuff, and I haven’t taken it apart yet. Right now I’m wondering could this be a bad laser issue, to where it keeps searching and eventually spits the disc back out? Or is it a something is miss aligned issue. The player looks fantastic inside.

Let me know what you guys think. I’ll post in the description more info if I have any. Thank you in advance.

I own a theta data 2 player I purchased used about a year ago. I purchased it locally knowing there was a chance it wouldn’t work, and while I still think I got a decent price on it with the rarity, it in fact did not work.

Now, over the past year I haven’t had time to diagnose it- so I took it to a tv repair place near me saying they’d look at it. They had it for 6 months and said they couldn’t get the part because it wasn’t produced anymore. They also said that if they could buy the part new, unfortunately, it would cost more than what the unit is worth.

Unfortunately, I didn’t get information on the exact issue or part that needed replaced. So now I’m stuck with a decision. Do I sell the player for what it’s worth, and buy a working one from someone else? Or do you guys have recommendations for repair places that specialize in laserdisc players in the USA? I’m not trying to spend a ton of money. Maybe sub whatever a decent other one would cost (~$300 ish maybe).

Definitely not worth the price. Very unfortunate they got rid of the cherry Sakura for this. At least in my opinion, that was better.