
Adding a little weight to my 1/72 armor
I bought these for N scale model railroad cars, but they’re a bit heavy. But perfect for little tanks.

I bought these for N scale model railroad cars, but they’re a bit heavy. But perfect for little tanks.
Looking for a non vinyl set of tracks for KV-1 and -2 models. I have found a couple of leads on eBay, but nothing in the description indicates whether it's just a few links, or whether it's a complete set for one tank.
The seller is unable to understand my question, or answer it clearly.
Here's the product I have found: https://ebay.io/m/c3W2Kq
I have a few old 1/72 kits on hand, and many have dubious decals. They almost look mildewed, although the box was sealed.
Generally do you toss old decals and buy new ones?
These are Hasegawa vintage 1974.
Of course the answer is always get an airbrush, but for those of us who can't do this at the moment, what is a reasonably good rattle can paint for Soviet armor 1941-45 (domestic production, not US or UK lend lease)?
Ideally something that can go on as a first coat w/o primer.
Thinking something like AS-14 (olive green), in Tamiya?
Two 1/76 scale Fujimi Chi-Ha WWII Japanese Army tanks. My first time trying pinwashing, but the bolts, panels, handles, etc. aren't popping out like I had hoped. Using A.MIG enamel wash dark brown for green AFVs.
I'm putting together a modest collection of 1/72 scale Japanese armor, and would like to arrange it for display, out of dust' way. Lots of the cases on the market are far too tall, need something compact.
(Should end up with about 10-12 by the time I'm done. Then back to N scale model railroading.)
Any suggestions would be welcome!
I don't think I'm accident prone, but I am regularly cutting myself on sticks and objects in and around the coop. Generally I can clean and bandage these.
That and the occasional chicken landing on my arm when I am sitting in my camping chair (when I'm in short sleeves esp.)
Has anyone ever had a doozy infection from a stick/poke/cut while working around the coop? (Not talking respiratory, strictly thinking wounds.)
I am finishing up a 1/72 scale Chi Ha 97 Japanese medium tank. It has a 'handrail antenna', which according to the instructions needs to be painted copper. Were these normally bare metal or would they have been painted (or coated in some other way)? I would think bare copper wouldn't last long in a humid environment, such as many Japanese tanks operated in?
I recently picked up a Heller 1/72 scale Sherman for an island hopping diorama.
Unfortunately it's not a very good kit, might be better relegated to function as a wreck.
However, if possible I would like to try to finish it, but the tracks are breaking apart.
Does anyone make aftermarket tracks for the Sherman?
I have bronchitis and am susceptible to respiratory conditions. I find that working with cements/solvents and spray painting with VOCs (including Tamiya and Army Painter) irritate my breathing. I try to paint outside, but it seems like the wind always blows the paint back in my face.
Any suggestions for a respirator that can deal with the solvents and VOCs in modern paints and cements?
TIA
Suddenly I have the bug to build 1/76 scale Japanese WWII armor. I'm going to handbrush the pre-1942 camouflage with IJA Vallejo Air acrylics. Are these okay to use without thinning, or will they need some additional thinning?
On a whim I picked up a 1/76 scale Chi Ha, and am wondering what commercial product best approximates the base coating for Japanese AFVs?
Like the equivalent of German Dunkelgelb (but probably green).
An aerosol product would be great for the base, but I don't do airbrushing...
I have a number of Kato, Tomix and Walther n-scale buildings on my layouts, and the Walthers all look oversized by comparison. Is this just my imagination. One point for instance is that the Walther doors are markedly taller.
I’m adding some open pit track to my engine house on my layout, but the half unijoiners Kato uses don’t want to connect to the regular Kato track. Is this normal? I don’t want to force the connection, but they don’t seem to want to connect.