u/Two_Typhons

This was left on company property, and they would like to get rid of it. But to sell it, I need to know what I'm looking at. Any details would help.

It says Jayco Cove, but when I look that up the only results I get say Jayco Eagle.

Questions:

Model name? Approximate year? Google Lens has nothing.

Length?

Approximate selling value, once cleaned up?

Any other info? Tia.

This Typhon is lowered to F15mm/R17mm and the front skidplate is getting annihilated.

If I add a Bash Armor plate or metal plate, it'll be even closer to the asphalt, and scrape even more.

There's a lot of rocks and cracks in & on the asphalt where I live. What are you guys doing about wear and tear on the bottoms of your rigs?

Got these off Ali Express and am pretty sure they're Hoons without the branding. I'm wondering if there's a way to tell which hardness they are.

They're solid. Good grip that holds speed perfectly but also lifts nicely for drifts. Does anyone know how to tell which hardness they are? Thanks.

I installed a Max10 140A ESC & 2400kv motor into a Typhon 223. It's stock pinion is 16T, spur/center diff gear is 57T.

I noticed on my Kraton 4s the pinion is 13T, spur is 57T. Motor is also 2400kv.

Should I take the Typhon pinion down to 13T?

He sniffs and rubs on the RC stuff a lot. Think he'd drive them if he could.

It'll either wheelie or flip over, it's so strong. How do I discipline the power?

Goal: high speed drifting on Hoons mixed with high speed passes and turns. 3s lipos exclusively.

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58T spur, 18T pinion. 3100kv motor. 80A ESC.

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Idk how hard the tires are.

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I'm thinking of 15k/200k/8k in the diffs.

12mm ground clearance front, 14mm rear.

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Shocks are lowered with internal spacers with stock springs set for a little more stiffness up front.

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Keep in mind this is 1/8 scale and I'm not looking for slow plastic wheel drifting. Going for high speed drifting.

How do these specs look to you? Thanks.

You may have to pull them towards the left of the model a bit until the brackets line up right on top of the battery.

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This took me months to figure out, because I didn't think they would squeeze through because they're doubled up near the bracket. So hopefully this helps save someone else the time and frustration.

They may seem resistant to go through, but keep pulling on the outside end and pushing the bracket end. They'll go.

I just run surface RCs, bashing but considering racing at some point.

Essentially I'm wondering if there's a tx that pros actually use that's under $350? I have a hard time believing there's any real use in anything over that, but am willing to learn more. Honestly I wonder if something like a Flysky GT3C wouldn't be just fine.

Radiolink is an obvious choice, but online sources say they're not recommended at the racetrack.

Mainly I'm looking at Sanwa, Futaba and Flysky. Something I could eventually use for racing at the track. Preferably something that provides big value for a smaller price, but could be my main tx for years. Thanks.