u/Willing_Wishbone_265

Hello, everyone,

I’m writing this quick post because I’m having trouble finding reliable information about the movement in this watch, which needs to be replaced!

It’s an ETA 955.124 (as marked on the movement), and I’m wondering about the interchangeability between ETA movements. I’ve found quite a bit of conflicting information, particularly regarding the interchangeability between the 955.124 and the 955.122. Do you know if these two movements are indeed interchangeable?

The movement has a coil problem (broken wire) on the electronic circuit, and I'm also wondering if I should just replace the electrical circuit—what do you think?

Just to clarify, I'm a beginner, and this is my first "big" repair!

Dans les vieux tiroirs poussièreux de la maison des grands parents de ma compagne trainait cette Revue Thommen à quartz. Decidemment, ma collection de montre d'agrandit au fur et à mesure que la maison se vide, entre celle-ci et la Zenith Sporto trouvée il y a quelques jours. A votre avis combien vaut cette montre ? (je vais la restaurer et la conserver pour la porter, mais je suis curieux !). La montre est un peu couverte de rouille, mais je vais essayer de rattraper ça !

Hello everyone,

I recently bought a Funker E480. I wanted to use it as a sidephone with just essential apps (WhatsApp, mail, signal, messenger) and the Hotspot function for my smartphone if needed.

It's a shame, because it fulfills its role very well, but its battery doesn't last the day! So I'm going to send it back today. I'm trying to find a similar alternative with a decent battery life for the French grid, any ideas for interest models? There is the Cat S22 flip of course but it's very expensive, or the Qin F22, but he had the same battery issues.

Bonjour à toutes et tous,

J'ai récupéré récemment des deux montres: une Omega très probablement datant des années 1930, et une Hebdomas 8 jour qui date manifestement de 1910 (l'hebdomas est en argent massif, l'oméga à mon avis non !).

L'oméga est hs, l'hebdomas elle se relance périodiquement mais s'arrete si on la bouge trop. A votre avis cela vaut il le coup de les faire réparer ?

Bonjour à toutes et tous, je viens de récupéré ces deux montres manifestement très anciennes. Je ne m'y connait pas trop mais ce sont manifestement des montres automatiques (elles se lancent quand on les remues un peu) et elles semblent marcher. Savez vous de quelles montres il s'agit et si ces sont des montres d'intérêt ?

Hi guys, some images of my last creation: a switch cover for AM2R

Hi guys, I have made this ShadowBox yesterday. First time that I made one, but I think it look cool for a first try! I'm probably going to do one for Fusion soon.

Hi guys, this is a personal creation for a friend anniversary. Quite easy to do and looking quite good for a first try I guess!

Bonjour à toutes et tous,

Après avoir fonctionné pendant quelques temps (1 mois), ma switchlite modée me donne un code erreur à l'allumage.

A votre avis quels sont les points de soudure devraient être revus? (notamment, je crois que le code erreur concerne le RST, mais pour le coup cela me semble bien...)

Merci d'avance!

Hello everyone,

I’m taking this post to share the odyssey that kept me busy last month. After buying a broken Switch Lite for 40 bucks (the USB-C port wasn’t working all the time and the fan was broken) and reading quite a few posts on the subject, I decided to try installing a modchip on this Switch Lite.

I have no experience with micro-soldering (I suppose I know a little more now—I had to learn), but this Switch was meant to be my “test” unit before trying it on my own.

In the end, I was lucky enough to successfully install the modchip on the first try (the joy of seeing “no SD card” appear on the screen).

But now I had a new problem: even though I’d successfully installed the chip, the Switch was still broken. So I set out to replace the USB-C port (which involved buying a heat gun and the near certainty of breaking everything while trying to replace the port). It seems beginner’s luck struck again, and I managed to install the USB-C port as well—though it took me several tries to get solid solder joints (I don’t know if it’s “that” important, but my first solder joints were really ugly, I had to use desoldering braid and redo it several times to be satisfied).

Since that old Switch couldn't stay that way, its shell, boutons and screen were also replaced. Now, let's get gaming.

A few tips for those who, like me, want to give this a try with little or no experience: don’t skimp on the flux, and don’t hesitate to use a magnifying glass or a digital microscope (the microscope helped me avoid a major short on the USB-C port, which I wouldn’t have seen otherwise). Be patient, and don’t hesitate to redo it if it doesn’t look right!

I hope this post has inspired some of you to give it a try!

Have a great day, everyone!

Hi everyone,

After seeing so many posts about Switch modding, I decided to give it a try on a Switch Lite that I bought for parts for a few dozen euros (the screen and charging port are damaged).

I have no experience with soldering (even though I’ve done a few tests on an old motherboard and am used to precision work with my Warhammer miniatures), but here’s the result. Well, I had to do it several times (especially for SP1 and SP2). I didn’t use a microscope, but I sometimes used a 10x magnifying glass to check my solder joints. That said, with all the flux, it’s not always easy to tell if it’s good!

Do the solder joints look okay to you, or should I redo some of them? I can now boot into Hekate. I’ve noticed that after booting into OFW and then turning off the console, I have to wait a few seconds before I can reboot into Hekate (otherwise, if I’m too quick, I boot into OFW, sometimes with the Nintendo logo appearing multiple times before booting, but I guess that’s because I’m reactivating the mod chip too soon after shutting down OFW).

See you soon!

Solost

P.S.: Sorry for my English, I’m French!