Ran a quick test across some custom-made static encounter maps I created to check scaling, color balance, and miniature footprints on my homemade digital table build.

The main takeaway right now is the glare. I’m currently using a standard sheet of plexiglass to protect the display, but the overhead reflection is pretty obvious at certain angles.

I'm thinking about upgrading to real glass next. For those who built their own TV table enclosures, did you go with tempered glass or stick with acrylic? Any specific anti-glare options you'd recommend?

Hey everyone!

We just put together a brand-new bakery map set centered around an elderly halfling couple whose magical baked goods grant amazing party buffs... with hilarious minor side effects!

We are sharing the complete map pack completely FREE with the community.

The Free Map Package Includes:

• 🗺️ Optimized VTT Files (.webp / image formats ready for Foundry, Roll20, etc.)
• 🖨️ 300 DPI Print-Ready Files for physical tabletop sessions
• 🎬 4K Animated & .webm Maps featuring cozy hearth smoke, glowing ovens, and floating magical whisks!

You can grab the complete free map archive directly from our Patreon post (no subscription required for the map tier):

👉 Free Download:Patreon.com/TableTopTeleMinis

Enjoy running your next session in the bakery, and let me know what kind of magical pastries your players order! ⚔️🔥

Demon Lord – Full Army Painter Recipe, Staining & Drybrush Process (Start to Finish)

Just wrapped up the final touches on this massive Demon Lord! Built this up using a heavy combination of Speedpaint staining, progressive drybrushing, and wash weathering to get a hyper-saturated, fleshy look with plenty of contrast. (Still waiting on his custom base to arrive in the mail, but couldn't wait to share the finished paint job!)

• Model: Amaros – Chaos Incarnate by Archvillain Games
• Print: 3D Printed Resin

Entirely painted using The Army Painter range (Warpaints Fanatic, Speedpaint 2.0, and Washes). Here is the complete breakdown of the recipe and process if you want to try a similar workflow:

Paint Recipe & Process

• Preparation & Base Stain:
  • Zenithal prime base.
  • Heavily stained the entire flesh and wing membrane area using Speedpaint 2.0: Murder Scene to create deep purple/magenta shadows in all the recesses.
• Flesh & Muscle Tones (Progressive Drybrushing):
  1. Fanatic: Terrestrial Titan (Deep shadow transition)
  2. Fanatic: Doomfire Drab (Mid-shadow warm-up)
  3. Fanatic: Moonstone Skin (Primary flesh volume highlights)
  4. Fanatic: Ruby Skin (Targeted drybrush on muscle crests for skin flush)
  5. Desert Yellow (Light top-down drybrush to catch zenithal light and add realistic skin warmth)
• Horns, Spikes & Bone Accents:
  • Base/Drybrush with Fanatic: Skeleton Bone.
  • Glazed/washed in targeted areas with Speedpaint 2.0: Bony Matter to add organic grime and shading to the bone root joints and ridges.
• Armor, Sword & Chain-Whip Metallics:
  • Base layer of Fanatic: Bright Gold.
  • Weathered and darkened down with Fanatic Wash: Warm Skin Shade to give it a worn, antiqued brass/gold finish.
• Final Details:
  • Eyes picked out in bright yellow with dark pupils for a sharp, sinister focal point.
  • Gloss varnish applied to the inside of the mouth and eyes for wet organic depth.

Curious what you guys think of using warm yellow glazes/drybrushing over cool skin tones to build contrast. Feedback and CC are always welcome!

Part II - Demon Lord – Full Army Painter Recipe, Staining & Drybrush Process (Start to Finish)

Just wrapped up the final touches on this massive Demon Lord! Built this up using a heavy combination of Speedpaint staining, progressive drybrushing, and wash weathering to get a hyper-saturated, fleshy look with plenty of contrast. (Still waiting on his custom base to arrive in the mail, but couldn't wait to share the finished paint job!)

• Model: Amaros – Chaos Incarnate by Archvillain Games
• Print: 3D Printed Resin

Entirely painted using The Army Painter range (Warpaints Fanatic, Speedpaint 2.0, and Washes). Here is the complete breakdown of the recipe and process if you want to try a similar workflow:

Paint Recipe & Process

• Preparation & Base Stain:
  • Zenithal prime base.
  • Heavily stained the entire flesh and wing membrane area using Speedpaint 2.0: Murder Scene to create deep purple/magenta shadows in all the recesses.
• Flesh & Muscle Tones (Progressive Drybrushing):
  1. Fanatic: Terrestrial Titan (Deep shadow transition)
  2. Fanatic: Doomfire Drab (Mid-shadow warm-up)
  3. Fanatic: Moonstone Skin (Primary flesh volume highlights)
  4. Fanatic: Ruby Skin (Targeted drybrush on muscle crests for skin flush)
  5. Desert Yellow (Light top-down drybrush to catch zenithal light and add realistic skin warmth)
• Horns, Spikes & Bone Accents:
  • Base/Drybrush with Fanatic: Skeleton Bone.
  • Glazed/washed in targeted areas with Speedpaint 2.0: Bony Matter to add organic grime and shading to the bone root joints and ridges.
• Armor, Sword & Chain-Whip Metallics:
  • Base layer of Fanatic: Bright Gold.
  • Weathered and darkened down with Fanatic Wash: Warm Skin Shade to give it a worn, antiqued brass/gold finish.
• Final Details:
  • Eyes picked out in bright yellow with dark pupils for a sharp, sinister focal point.
  • Gloss varnish applied to the inside of the mouth and eyes for wet organic depth.

Curious what you guys think of using warm yellow glazes/drybrushing over cool skin tones to build contrast. Feedback and CC are always welcome!

Demon Lord – Full Army Painter Recipe, Staining & Drybrush Process (Start to Finish)

Just wrapped up the final touches on this massive Demon Lord! Built this up using a heavy combination of Speedpaint staining, progressive drybrushing, and wash weathering to get a hyper-saturated, fleshy look with plenty of contrast. (Still waiting on his custom base to arrive in the mail, but couldn't wait to share the finished paint job!)

• Model: Amaros – Chaos Incarnate by Archvillain Games
• Print: 3D Printed Resin

Entirely painted using The Army Painter range (Warpaints Fanatic, Speedpaint 2.0, and Washes). Here is the complete breakdown of the recipe and process if you want to try a similar workflow:

Paint Recipe & Process

• Preparation & Base Stain:
  • Zenithal prime base.
  • Heavily stained the entire flesh and wing membrane area using Speedpaint 2.0: Murder Scene to create deep purple/magenta shadows in all the recesses.
• Flesh & Muscle Tones (Progressive Drybrushing):
  1. Fanatic: Terrestrial Titan (Deep shadow transition)
  2. Fanatic: Doomfire Drab (Mid-shadow warm-up)
  3. Fanatic: Moonstone Skin (Primary flesh volume highlights)
  4. Fanatic: Ruby Skin (Targeted drybrush on muscle crests for skin flush)
  5. Desert Yellow (Light top-down drybrush to catch zenithal light and add realistic skin warmth)
• Horns, Spikes & Bone Accents:
  • Base/Drybrush with Fanatic: Skeleton Bone.
  • Glazed/washed in targeted areas with Speedpaint 2.0: Bony Matter to add organic grime and shading to the bone root joints and ridges.
• Armor, Sword & Chain-Whip Metallics:
  • Base layer of Fanatic: Bright Gold.
  • Weathered and darkened down with Fanatic Wash: Warm Skin Shade to give it a worn, antiqued brass/gold finish.
• Final Details:
  • Eyes picked out in bright yellow with dark pupils for a sharp, sinister focal point.
  • Gloss varnish applied to the inside of the mouth and eyes for wet organic depth.

Curious what you guys think of using warm yellow glazes/drybrushing over cool skin tones to build contrast. Feedback and CC are always welcome!

Demon Lord – Full Army Painter Recipe, Staining & Drybrush Process (Start to Finish)

Just wrapped up the final touches on this massive Demon Lord! Built this up using a heavy combination of Speedpaint staining, progressive drybrushing, and wash weathering to get a hyper-saturated, fleshy look with plenty of contrast. (Still waiting on his custom base to arrive in the mail, but couldn't wait to share the finished paint job!)

• Model: Amaros – Chaos Incarnate by Archvillain Games
• Print: 3D Printed Resin

Entirely painted using The Army Painter range (Warpaints Fanatic, Speedpaint 2.0, and Washes). Here is the complete breakdown of the recipe and process if you want to try a similar workflow:

Paint Recipe & Process

• Preparation & Base Stain:
  • Zenithal prime base.
  • Heavily stained the entire flesh and wing membrane area using Speedpaint 2.0: Murder Scene to create deep purple/magenta shadows in all the recesses.
• Flesh & Muscle Tones (Progressive Drybrushing):
  1. Fanatic: Terrestrial Titan (Deep shadow transition)
  2. Fanatic: Doomfire Drab (Mid-shadow warm-up)
  3. Fanatic: Moonstone Skin (Primary flesh volume highlights)
  4. Fanatic: Ruby Skin (Targeted drybrush on muscle crests for skin flush)
  5. Desert Yellow (Light top-down drybrush to catch zenithal light and add realistic skin warmth)
• Horns, Spikes & Bone Accents:
  • Base/Drybrush with Fanatic: Skeleton Bone.
  • Glazed/washed in targeted areas with Speedpaint 2.0: Bony Matter to add organic grime and shading to the bone root joints and ridges.
• Armor, Sword & Chain-Whip Metallics:
  • Base layer of Fanatic: Bright Gold.
  • Weathered and darkened down with Fanatic Wash: Warm Skin Shade to give it a worn, antiqued brass/gold finish.
• Final Details:
  • Eyes picked out in bright yellow with dark pupils for a sharp, sinister focal point.
  • Gloss varnish applied to the inside of the mouth and eyes for wet organic depth.

Curious what you guys think of using warm yellow glazes/drybrushing over cool skin tones to build contrast. Feedback and CC are always welcome!

Demon Lord – Full Army Painter Recipe, Staining & Drybrush Process (Start to Finish)

Just wrapped up the final touches on this massive Demon Lord! Built this up using a heavy combination of Speedpaint staining, progressive drybrushing, and wash weathering to get a hyper-saturated, fleshy look with plenty of contrast. (Still waiting on his custom base to arrive in the mail, but couldn't wait to share the finished paint job!)

• Model: Amaros – Chaos Incarnate by Archvillain Games
• Print: 3D Printed Resin

Entirely painted using The Army Painter range (Warpaints Fanatic, Speedpaint 2.0, and Washes). Here is the complete breakdown of the recipe and process if you want to try a similar workflow:

Paint Recipe & Process

• Preparation & Base Stain:
  • Zenithal prime base.
  • Heavily stained the entire flesh and wing membrane area using Speedpaint 2.0: Murder Scene to create deep purple/magenta shadows in all the recesses.
• Flesh & Muscle Tones (Progressive Drybrushing):
  1. Fanatic: Terrestrial Titan (Deep shadow transition)
  2. Fanatic: Doomfire Drab (Mid-shadow warm-up)
  3. Fanatic: Moonstone Skin (Primary flesh volume highlights)
  4. Fanatic: Ruby Skin (Targeted drybrush on muscle crests for skin flush)
  5. Desert Yellow (Light top-down drybrush to catch zenithal light and add realistic skin warmth)
• Horns, Spikes & Bone Accents:
  • Base/Drybrush with Fanatic: Skeleton Bone.
  • Glazed/washed in targeted areas with Speedpaint 2.0: Bony Matter to add organic grime and shading to the bone root joints and ridges.
• Armor, Sword & Chain-Whip Metallics:
  • Base layer of Fanatic: Bright Gold.
  • Weathered and darkened down with Fanatic Wash: Warm Skin Shade to give it a worn, antiqued brass/gold finish.
• Final Details:
  • Eyes picked out in bright yellow with dark pupils for a sharp, sinister focal point.
  • Gloss varnish applied to the inside of the mouth and eyes for wet organic depth.

Curious what you guys think of using warm yellow glazes/drybrushing over cool skin tones to build contrast. Feedback and CC are always welcome!

Does anyone recall this guy?

Here is the final look at my custom-painted Ice Dragon miniature, complete with a frozen battlefield diorama base littered with fallen weapons and a trapped skeleton.

For this model, I used rock salt embedded in the base and texturing to achieve that heavy, glittering snowy ice effect. On the wings, I went with a smooth blend working from the outer edges inward to the high points to give it a deep, chilling gradient.

Army Painter Paint Recipe:

• Prime: Matt Black / Ash Grey highlights
• Body & Scales Base: Wolf Grey (Warpaints Fanatic) / Spaceship Hull
• Deep Shading: Dark Sky / Blue tones
• Wing Blend: Deep Blue transitioning up to Elemental Bolt / White highlights
• Details & Highlights: Matt White drybrush

Finally finished up this batch using purely Army Painter stuff (big fan of their Speedpaints and effect paints).

The biggest experiment on these chitin plates was trying to get a subtle shimmer without losing the rich base tones:

1. Drybrushing: Did multiple passes of Army Painter Fairy Dust over the base layer.
2. Glazing Back: Thinned down the base colors using a heavy mix of Water + Speedpaint Medium to glaze right over the Fairy Dust. It let that metallic shimmer bleed through without looking like flat glitter.
3. Details: Finished the eyes with a heavy gloss coat and threw together some toxic sewer bases.
4. The Rescue: I stupidly got paint all over the original clear flight mounts halfway through 😅 so I had to improvise and craft custom ones from scratch to save the minis.

I uploaded the full short video showing how the layers look in motion here on the post.

Would love to get some feedback on the glaze layers or the basing—good or bad! If anyone has questions about the glaze ratios, Speedpaint Medium behavior, or how I did the bases, ask away.

(I keep more of my mini builds and session prep stuff over on my YouTube channel if anyone ever wants to check out more work or reach out, link is in my bio!)

Just finished up my Dragonborn paladin, some work in progress pics, tell me what you think.

My Dragonborn Paladin, a few pics work in progress and final pics. What do you think?

I was thinking of making a tribe of all female Insect riders. Individually they have their own stats but when combined they get a combined stat as seen in this image. This one is riding a hornet. I have some others that ride a Mantis, Bee, Wasp and Fly. Can you think of any other flying insects I might be able to use? Do you think this is a dumb idea?

This mini came in two pieces. Both his hands were attached to the spoon and stew pot and separate. I painted it separate at the same time, but when I finally glued his hands to the body and put him on the base, i must have messed up because the stew pot was slightly hovering over the base. So I decided to fill up around the bottom of the stew pot with some tiny skulls I had extra of. Not sure if it hides the mistake well enough or just looks like I was trying to cover something up??

I ordered a bunch of minis to paint because I don't yet own a 3D printer and I mixed up the bases and put the Otyugh's base on something else, and it looked great. But when I went to put the Otyugh on her base, realized my mistake. So I used this really awesome base I had and i think it worked out. Tell me what you think.

I'm working on a Ratkin Tavern and I think it's pretty cool idea but thought I'd get some feedback? Go ahead be honest, I can take it...

Checkout the Coming Soon Video Here; https://www.instagram.com/reel/DaLYlP1OFe7/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==