u/_derpiii_

I've been shopping around for a 1x14500 EDC light, and it's come down to Noctigon KR1AA vs Skilhunt EC150.

However, I haven't been able to find a side-by-side size comparison between those two. And strangely enough, I don't really see the KR1AA mentioned much in EDC recommendations (why is that?).

If one of ya'll has both lights, could you please upload a side-by-side size comparison? 🙏🏻

And in case you're interested, these are the lights I have considered, as well as my notes (I appreciate any corrections :) )

• Convoy T3: 21x97mm. Beam: reflector 10° hotspot. Driver: 1.5A
• Convoy T5: 21x88mm Beam: TIR smooth 30°. Driver: 1.5A
• Wurkkos HD10 24(28)x83mm 4000K: USB-C charging. Right angle. Beam: TIR smooth 29°
• Lumintop Tool 2.0: 19x90mm
• Emisar D2: 18x93mm
• Emisar D3AA 24x79mm: the customizable hotrod king (have already ordered a SST-20-DR)
• Noctigon KR1AA 22x80mm: Beam: 20° (reflector?). Bonus: Tritium cap 🧪!
• Skilhunt EC150: 23(27)x80mm. Beam: 35° TIR. USB-C charging

Are there any other lights I may be overlooking?

My ideal requirements:

• Smaller than 24x85mm
• Rear clicky
• Emitter: highCRI, warmer than 5000K (3500-4000, negative DUV)
• Bonus: Andruil 2.0
• Big bonus: Onboard USB-C charging.

I'm basically looking for something that is light enough for pocket and doubles as urban slingbag travel light.

FWIW, I already own:

• Convoy T3: quality host, but longer and thicker than I would prefer
• Wurkkos HD10 4000K: This is my favorite chuck it in pocket size. Love the output, but very green tint.
• Lumintop Tool 2.0 UV: Wonderful size - need to revisit.

I'm looking into configuring a 'spot' therapy flashlight, and I was wondering what is the optimal mix of 3-4 emitters?

From my understanding, only 660nm and 850nm is effective.

Is there an optimal ratio to mix them in?

Maybe it's because I'm extra slow or uncoordinated, but I just can't think of any scenario where I would prefer a side switch over a rear clicky.

So it surprises me when I come across comments where people are genuinely asking for a side switch. I'm just puzzled.

Maybe I'm not using sideswitches correctly, which would be awesome cause, hey, I can learn some new technique!

While you're at it, what are some of your favorite side switch lights?

What are your top 3 must-have firefly lights?

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Context: I see so much potential with this brand, but so far, it's been a miss (L60-Mu Aura 2026 and E12 Eclipse). Trying to see what else to try.

I'm a fan of their FFL351A emitter, but that's about it. The hosts look great in pictures, but lack the refinement and any signs of thoughtful testing. Just smh, like the designers never actually tested the light for cohesive fit and polrish (like comparing Huawei/Xiaomi to Apple).

Zebralight and Hank/Emisar/Noctigon has all those refinements, every detail meticulously thought out (even their Gen1 didn't have issues). They look boring and fragile, but actually use it and you understand good handling, design, etc.

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So with that said, what are your top must have Firefly lights?

I'm seeing hype around the Z1 Artemis TIR, but it's from positive influencer sell-out types that lack any discernment. The old guards are silent - which says a lot.

Let's say you want to set a piece of paper on fire 🔥

What's the most powerful single cell (up to 1x18650) build for it, while still remaining a useful flashlight.

So choose your configuration of: LED, optics/reflectors, driver, host, etc.

I still remember my first Emisar D4 just smoking things, and wonder how much things have improved.

It seems like 99% of B35AM threads choose the 4500K.

Besides tint preferences, is there a technical reason why?

e.g. Does the 4500K have better Ra and R9?

Context: I've been going a wee bit insane trying to choose which tint for the Convoy H4 😂.

My preferences:

• Extremely sensitive to green tint. Would err towards negative DUV
• 4000K seems 'cool white' to me
• Been liking the FFL351A 3700K NW - Glad I did not get the Rosy version - holy smokes this emitter is Rosy magenta to my eyes.
• Use case: indoor close-up work. Cozy skin tone rendering.

On a whim, I checked the voltage of a cell (Sony VTC4) and measured 4.32V!! 😱

Used 2 different methods to check the voltage (cheap battery checker and Fluke 87V multimeter).

I don't know if I'm going to be able to repro this, but is this a known issue with Xtar chargers?

Just thought I'll start a thread on shipping times.

Suggesting this format:

Light:
Location:
Shipping:
Order Date:
Shipped:
Delivered:

Optional: Light model and configuration

What's the best 18650/21700+ charger in 2026?

Feature list I would prefer:

• USB-C power input
• 3.6V storage mode
• 0V activation (I occasionally have odd rapid parasitic discharge from my zebralights)
• cell capacity + DC-IR measurement

I'm impartial to 1-4 slots (already own the XTAR VP4 Dragon, so don't mind picking up a smaller companion)

From my own analysis (charger spreadsheet), it seems to be:

• XTAR VX2 Pro
• SkyRC MC5000
• Vapcell SU2: not USB-C, no storage, 5A charging

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SkyRC MC5000: looks incredible, but doing a search here, there seems to be a lot of complaints around noise, lack of temperature monitoring 🔥, and lack of memory presets.

I'm not sure why memory preset even matters there. Does the charger not detect the cell chemistry automatically?

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XTAR VX2 Pro: This seems to be the reliable favorite here.

Limited to 20W and 3A though, vs 100W of the SkyRC. Not that I fast charge my cells now - it's just nice having that option for future lower impedance cells (imagine a sub-miliohm 21700 100A CDR cell 🚀)

I'm also a bit hesitant because in IME, I've owned the XTAR VP1, and the backlight died with no warranty. So I don't have the best impression of them 😅

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Any thoughts and finer points of ownership (or pain points) That's not so obvious from reviews and technical data sheets?

Mulling over E12 configuration, and deciding between FFL351A-3700K NW vs Rosy. And I'm having a hard time finding side-by-side beam shots of them.

Any thoughts on NW vs Rosy 3700K?

I like vibrant skin rendering and nature (separation of greens from browns).

FWIW, I have the L60 in 3700K NW. To me it feels more like 4000k, and neutral-ish.

It makes my Eagletac D25A Nichia219b look so green and low CRI 🤯 - really amazing how far LEDs have come.

About to checkout on the E12 Eclipse, and I'm torn between which finish: Astral Aluminum or MAO Fossil Grey.

I know a lot of ya'll favor the Astral Aluminum for the polished stainless steel look + durability.

I'm leaning towards the MAO because I love the matte handfeel of my Acebeam E75 (and yes, the finish is chipping all over).

I've never had a shiny finish light, and if this was a smaller light (like the L50 Sol), I would 100% go Astral for that light saber look. But on a light as big as the E12 - in my head, I'm imagining it to look like a saucepan🧑🏻‍🍳 😂

As for Emitter: FFL351A-3700K Rosy CRI95.

Looking for a pocket-clippable thrower:

• TIR preferred, 3700-5000k HighCRI
• USB-Charging on the body
• 1x2700 (or smaller), <40mm head (Acebeam E75 35mm is perfect)
• Output: 1000+ lumen sustained (leaves out old X1S Pharos at 300 lumens)
• Beam: mid throw, 2-5m diameter at 50m. So 5-10° TIR.

On paper (from fireflies Product descriptions), this is what I expected:

• Mule: NOV-Mu V2 / V2S
• Flooder: E07X Canon, E12 Eclipse
• Balanced: X4 Stellar
• Mid thrower: E04 Surge
• Thrower: X1S Pharos**,** E90 Blaze, X1L

I’ve gone back-and-forth so many times (30+ hours into this), about to check out with what I thought was their optimal thrower. And now I find a beam shot comparison that clearly shows the E04 Surge >> X1S

I’m confused and exhausted. Could someone please rank/categorize their throwers accordingly?

And better yet which Firefly lights do we clearly avoid due to not so obvious disappointing gotchas?

You know buy once, cry once?

I did my research, and specifically went with the Aqara FP1E because with all their marketing and being 10x the price of a PIR, I thought they would be the highest quality motion device.

NOPE. OH GOD NOPE.

I have 3 of these sensors, and it has been the most flakiest, most frustrating part of my home assistant setup. It's so bad I kept on adding on more of them, then added dirt cheap, battery powered dumb PIR (Tapo's) to the mix.

And slowly over time, it's gotten to the point where only the dumb PIR's are the reliable part, and just outright removing the Aqara's has been the move.

So what's the issue? It's not the technology (mmWave is magic).

It's AQARA's BLACK BOX AI.

The sensor has an AI model that 'learns' what's motion or not. Well, problem is, It always converges on the wrong answer over time. It drifts to become nonresponsive.

And NO it is NOT a tuning (yes I've adjusted every parameter you can think of) or positioning issue - dear lord, the hundreds of hours I've spent on this.

No matter how you tune it, and how many times you reset it, it just goes wonky with ZERO insight into why. And this is something there's 0 diagnostics and you have no say into.

So if you want mmWave magic, just DIY so you:

1. have full diagnostics into how and why things fail - it's just the nature of this hobby.
2. Once you have a working setup, you can just lock that in instead of randomly being reset by firmware or some edge AI.

You know buy once, cry once?

I did my research, and specifically went with the Aqara FP1E because with all their marketing and being 10x the price of a PIR, I thought they would be the highest quality motion device.

NOPE. OH GOD NOPE.

I have 3 of these sensors, and it has been the most flakiest, most frustrating part of my home assistant setup. It's so bad I kept on adding on more of them, then added dirt cheap, battery powered dumb PIR (Tapo's) to the mix.

And slowly over time, it's gotten to the point where only the dumb PIR's are the reliable part, and just outright removing the Aqara's has been the move.

So what's the issue? It's not the technology (mmWave is magic).

It's AQARA's BLACK BOX AI.

The sensor has an AI model that 'learns' what's motion or not. Well, problem is, It always converges on the wrong answer over time. It drifts to become nonresponsive.

And NO it is NOT a tuning (yes I've adjusted every parameter you can think of) or positioning issue - dear lord, the hundreds of hours I've spent on this.

No matter how you tune it, and how many times you reset it, it just goes wonky with ZERO insight into why. And this is something there's 0 diagnostics and you have no say into.

So if you want mmWave magic, just DIY so you:

1. have full diagnostics into how and why things fail - it's just the nature of this hobby.
2. Once you have a working setup, you can just lock that in instead of randomly being reset by firmware or some edge AI.

Does anyone have side-by-side beam shots comparing those 2?

Hank mentions "NTG35 LEDs are recommended for better beam pattern, high CRI and good tint".

I haven't heard of the NTG35, and from my initial research, the 519A still wins for skin tones.

I'll contact them of course and keep this post updated.

This is one of those lights that's being hyped up, and I just wanted to give a brutally honest reality check review. In less than 10 minutes, I just know this is just going straight to the trash.

Things I like: The 4000k tint is ok, and the smooth on/off is nice. That's where it ends.

The horrible questionable design choices, that I have not really seen anyone else mention:

• Button feels very rickety. It doesn't have an even actuation, and it feels like it's made out of plastic. It just feels very cheap. It's the cheapest button I've ever experienced on a flashlight.
• Their Andruil implementation is just ratched. When you turn off the light, the AUX light goes to MAX TEAL despite whatever you configured it to. And the timing is just odd - I have other Andruil lights and this one is by far the most finicky in the timing of the clicks.
• Magnet is incredibly weak. Could they not use a proper magnet?? What's funny is the product box has 4 magnets - why not divert the cost of those throwaway box magnets into upgrading the tail magnet???

Things that's on me and I should have checked before buying but we're only human:

• The beam angle of 29 degrees is silly narrow. For a headlamp, this is comically useless.
• The head is so wide at this point it should just be an 18350/18650 light. It is utterly useless having this be a 14500 light.

Every couple of years I decide to give Wurkkos a chance, and each time I am just an inevitably disappointed. On paper, they seem nice and they do an excellent job managing their influencer connections, but god, they just cannot make a cohesively polished decent light.