
Advertised for uromastyx - is it safe?
I was told this wasnt actually good for uros because of bell peppers, papaya and mango (trace amounts though). Do yall use this?

I was told this wasnt actually good for uros because of bell peppers, papaya and mango (trace amounts though). Do yall use this?
Id taken every precaution against snake mites in my bioactive tank but after 11 months im suddenly seeing this. What type of bug is this? I was hoping it was six legs and antennae but the snout looks like the one on snout mites… the antennae move like antennae though, doesnt look like leg movement to me🙈theres no blood when i squish it, but it could be an unfed protonymph… nothing latched onto my snake so far🤞
I got my BP last september. He was in quarantine on papertowels until the end of january. While he was in quaranzine, i deep froze every bag of substrate for at least 7 days and i baked every piece of wood. I cleaned non-natural material hides with hot water and vinegar.
How likely is it, that yesterday, i saw a mite on my snake? It was not full of blood yet so i have no idea what it was and my camera didnt focus on it. I killed it and lost it🙃
My tank has springtails and rollypolies. Some tiny spiders camp out there too feeding on the occasional fungus gnat…
Everyone said 2 arcadia 100w halogens were enough to heat the enclosure. I set it up as pic above but the 100w are huge bulbs and according to the iso maps, if i put my domes on top of my mesh, the mesh is a 45% block, so i need a density of 725 at 50cm from the bulb . This does noot heat up my enclosureee but i cant put the halogens inside because then id need to have only a 400ish density and 100w needs to be 70-75cm away with no mesh block.
With the 2 100w halogens as per picture, i only get 25C inside the enclosure and 40C spot temp on the basking rock.
I will have to put a small bulb inside the enclosure but it needs to be at a safe distance from the basking platfom for the correct density and has to give me 120-130F… any ideas what could fix this? Maybe an incandescent flood instead of a halogen?
There is an old post on this subreddit where the admin’s comment says a halogen must be on a dimming thermostat and is incompatible with an on/off thermostat. We have a lighting expert in a frog group who has just explained that we might be ridding our animals of any IRA by using a dimmer…
“Dimming thermostats: a halogen should not be placed on a dimming thermostat. A halogen capsule has a tungsten filament inside which reaches temps of 2000 degree F, this extreme temp is necessary to emit IRA. If the lamp is not allowed to receive full power meaning it is reduced by a dimming thermostat. Then ira is not emitting, defeating its purpose. And you will not receive the perceived power density goal. Again important to remember our animals don’t care what the temp of the air surrounding them is, they are concerned with the intensity of infrared radiation coming from the lamp/sun. This is how they thermoregulate”
This is what they said…
They also said “We don’t use thermostats in any of our enclosures (that’s 15 at the moment many different species 4 different biomes) and that bc we base our basking spots on intensity vs ambient air temp. Controlling basking zone based on air temp is a thing of the past.”
I want to prevent house fires and overheating of ghe enclosure but I want my snake to get IRA🙈
Anyone who has this terrarium or a similar PVC 4x2x2 please comment and lets discuss setting up our lightttssss🙈 my UV index from uvb mounted inside is too high and outside too low. I also need to keep the right distance from my halogens. Thank youuu
Hi everyone, ive been setting up my quarantine enclosure and ive noticed that when i put my 14% arcadia uvb on top pf the toxirium mesh, the basking spot has a UV index of 4-4.6. But i see many people mounting UVB on the inside. I tried it and it gave me at index of 23😂 what types of UVB bulbs do yall mount inside?? The 12% maybe?
Also, is the 4 ish index enough? I want the bulb 25cm above the basking spot but i was hoping for about a 6 UV index on basking. Then again i cant mount it inside and its the strongest UVB %🙈
I know thermometres are to be taken with a grain of salt, i also ise an infrared gun that gives me spot temps of the actual items. My logic tells me that because the substrate on the cool side is cold, the thermometre on the ground measures a temp cooled down by the substrate and the one on top of the hide measures air temp. Then again, when my snake is inside the hide, he also is being cooles down by the substrate. Which temp is more relevant to him? I also sometimes use the gun to measure the spot temp of his scales which im hoping reflects the temp most accurately?🙈
Jungledawn keeps overheating my cold side so i unscrewed it today and put it wayyy more onto the hot side. The cold side is now pretty dark, is that ok? The cold side does have some pothos but it is still getting just enough light to keep growing. I thought having the proper cooling gradient was more important than light on both sides🙈the plants are also shading the cold side so it’s in shade. (It’s a 4ft length terrarium btw). I took a partial pic of the tank cropping the working mess around. Left side hot, right side cold. His cold hide has always been in the shade but the jungledawn light was above his waterbowl whereas now its above the left log :)
I thought a uromastyx diet can follow the tortoise table, but tortoise table has Mint as “safe to feed”, meanwhile it contains camphor which is supposed to negatively affect liver. So it would be safer to avoid it. 🧐
Hi everyone, im deciding on a background color for my future uromastyx ornata. I know they fire up really nicely with their colours under the correct high heat. That is the most important thing. But some of my reptiles also have brighter colors on, lets say an example, a dark background and light colours on a light background. Is this a thing with uros?
Have you noticed that ornatas are more colorful on a yellow background vs. a red background, for example? Do we think this can contribute to their colors? If so, which color fires their colors up the best?
Should i add one big lava rock for my uro’s nails to be trimmed on it? It’s not too rough?
Hello :) it’s pretty tough to find a uromastyx breeder in your very own country unless youre in germany or the netherlands but my tiny country has one this year! He said that after hatching, the babies will stay with him for a month. I would really like a locally sources CB uro but 1 month seems so little… what do yall think?
Hello! We have reached over 500g so now we are moving to the 7% every 14-20 days mark in feeding schedule. If he is 511g rn, i will do a 36g rat? Thats what’s yall would do? Just checking :)
Ive only ever seen one video of breaking the pattern where instead of breaking it with chaotic sound, the pattern would just stop and there was a moment of silence. Do yall have more? :)
Where do yall place them? I dont wanna place them on the basking spot because my uro will lie on top of it and then it won’t work🙃
For my other animals ive got them on the walls….
My reptile room offers good temps for most of the year and its great to have all my animals in 1 room. During the heatwaves though, i have to move my crested gecko, gargoyle gecko and some of my frogs into my bedroom for a few days and I use quarantine tanks.
Most of my gecko’s favourite hides are built into their tanks and the tanks are heavy so I have to take the geckos out and put them into the quarantine tanks with spare plants and hides. It stresses them out.
Im thinking of moving them to my bedroom permanently… but the reptile room is better for them and i’d have to do a lot of changes. Plus my bedroom is a quarantine room, i would lose a quarantine room.
How bad would it be if I just kept spare tanks in my bedroom and only moved my geckos in for the hotter days and then put them back in the reptile room? Are they gonna care? They do seem to get super stressed out but chill out after a few minutes…
My snake has just crossed over 500g in under a year so i no longer feed every 7 days and i feed smaller feeders now. But he has JUST shed today and he is sooo hungry, im thinking of feeding him tomorrow. Maybe a smaller prey but i know shedding takes a lot of energy from him and he doesnt shed often so can i treat him tmw since he must be tired and hungry? Hes been begging for food since the late afternoon🙈we last fed previous wednesday
When id been preparing for my BP, there was a video (which i cant find now) that talked about Exo Terra Reptile Caves (PT2853). It was a specific type of them that seemed to be discontinued (pictured), but the video said that because the hide was wide but not very tall, it provided a really snug environment. It was also big enough for an adult but because of it’s creases, even babies felt safe in it. And any ball python who had issues eating started eating once given these hides. So i bought 2 and used them as my main hot and cold hides. Symmetrical.
According to exo terra they are made of a durable, non-toxic resin. My snake LOVES them. The one on the hot side works well in the 60-69% ish humidity. But because my cold side stays consistently in the 70s and sometimes 80s, the inner ceiling caught black mold. So atm he has his old plastic one on the cold side (he also has an identical on the warm side next to the exo terra).
Im looking for a similarly wide and snug hide that will nooot mold in high humidity😩 would glazed ceramics do that? Is it too cold and smooth? Do yall have specific recommendations👁️