Azure Artifact Signing wants more documents, but there's nowhere to upload them. How are you signing Windows plugins, and do you need to?

I'm a solo developer with a registered company in Sweden, getting ready to release my first commercial plugin, a CS-80 emulation for VST3/AU/standalone on macOS, Windows and Linux.

The DSP was the fun part. Windows code signing has been considerably less fun.

My unsigned Inno Setup installer gets the SmartScreen "Windows protected your PC" warning, and Edge also warns about the download. I decided to try Azure Artifact Signing (formerly Trusted Signing) because it's about $10/month and available to EU companies.

Organization validation fails after the biometric verification with a message asking me to provide additional documents from the past 12 months, such as registration certificates or tax records.

I have the documents but I just can't upload them!

According to Microsoft's docs, the upload option is supposed to appear when validation reaches Action Required. Mine never reaches that state. It goes straight to Failed, and there is no upload button anywhere. I tried creating a second validation request and got the same result: it fails immediately after the biometric verification.

The support route hasn't helped either. I keep getting sent through an AI troubleshooter, and with the free support plan I can't find a way to open an actual ticket.

It is so frustrating because I have a current company registration certificate and the latest annual financial statement ready to send. There just doesn't seem to be any way to send them. And no way to open a support ticket, even though the microsoft community posts saying they should provide free support for artefact signing issues.

For anyone who's released Windows plugins recently:

  1. Has anyone hit "Failed, documents required" without getting an upload option? How did you get past it? Paid Azure support, Microsoft Q&A, something else?
  2. If you use a traditional certificate instead, which CA do you use? Certum's OV cloud signing with SimplySign looks like one of the cheaper options. I'd be particularly interested in something that doesn't cost an arm and a leg, I just want to ship this now but I don't have the hundreds of eurodollars to spend for code signing (Apple is an additional $100 on top of the ~$200 for Certum).
  3. Does anyone just distribute unsigned VST3s as a ZIP? As I understand it, hosts can load unsigned plugin DLLs and SmartScreen mainly matters for executables. Has Smart App Control on Windows 11 caused actual support problems for anyone doing this? This is a viable option in case it works, but it means windows users won't get the standalone version of the synth.

I also have no money to pay for expensive certificates due to not being able to find actual software engineering contracts during this economic downturn and AI slop takeover, so I've pretty much been working full time on this project the past year without any income at all.

Is there a solution for this that doesn't require me to a) pay a lot of money, and b) not have to spend several working days skirmishing with Microsoft?

If some microsoft person happens to see this, can you please PLEASE send me a DM?

reddit.com
u/diemenschmachine — 13 days ago

Where or how do you market and sell digital audio tools

I am a software contractor but haven’t had a contract since October due to the economy and I guess AI takeover, and now money is starting to run out completely.

I decided to finish a soft synth I’ve been working on a few years back and it’s starting to be ready for release.

This is not my first audio DsP project but it is the first one to try and sell.

I’ve found some places where you can sell online and get an API for licensing, like Gum Road. But I am sure there must be thousands of options to go about this where one or two are the ones that will actually make money.

I don’t have the time, money, or motivation to self publish and market this myself.

So what are the best options?

Thank you

reddit.com
u/diemenschmachine — 2 months ago
▲ 0 r/DSP

Where or how do you market and sell digital audio tools

I guess this is only tangential to DSP, it’s more on the business side of things anyway.

I am a software contractor but haven’t had a contract since October due to the economy and I guess AI takeover, and now money is starting to run out completely.

I decided to finish a soft synth I’ve been working on a few years back and it’s starting to be ready for release.

This is not my first audio DsP project but it is the first one to try and sell.

I’ve found some places where you can sell online and get an API for licensing, like Gum Road. But I am sure there must be thousands of options to go about this where one or two are the ones that will actually make money.

I don’t have the time, money, or motivation to self publish and market this myself.

So what are the best options?

A completely different thing I want to check with people who do this for a living. I’ve measured aliasing by generating different frequencies with my(polybleped) oscillators, then cut out the fundamental frequencies and measured the dBRMS at different oversampling ratios. But I’m not sure what’s an acceptable level for the higher keys to be considered pro level aliasing. So if someone has some insight here I would be happy to receive some advice too. At note C8 I’m only reaching about -30dB using 2x oversampling, at 4x -50dB and 8x -70dB, so I have to make a judgement call here. But it’s 16 voices and analog modelled oscillators so it’s quite expensive to run even with SIMD and -ffast-math.

Thank you

reddit.com
u/diemenschmachine — 2 months ago

Thoughts after finally finishing Space Age

So I finally finished, after 207 (!!) hours.

While I really like Factorio, the 207 hours of grinding at Space Age was a bit too much. I found it too time consuming to keep shipments going between planets and I often was out of resources to send rockets. Maybe second playthrough I will build a better base and do a better job at keeping nauvis properly supplied with ores, but I really think I will be going back to vanilla after this effort.

At least I finished it, but I can't say I would rate it as high as the vanilla game.

u/diemenschmachine — 2 months ago

Where to go after Nauvis

I've just bought space age after a couple of playthrough and I'm currently researching the spaceport. What should be the modus operandi expanding into space?

reddit.com
u/diemenschmachine — 3 months ago
▲ 0 r/Lumix

Why does the S5iix kit lens reset it's focus to 10m when turning on the camera? Can I change it?

This is incredibly frustrating and expensive for me. I have my camera mounted in the same spot with manual focus when I'm working. I turn it off constantly and pull the USB disk during longer sessions where I don't expect to record anything, because otherwise it for some reason drains the battery if I simply turn it off.

Every time I do this I need to refocus. Sometimes I forget and the footage is ruined with no way to reshoot. This is becoming the bane of my existence.

Is there some way to fix this?

reddit.com
u/diemenschmachine — 4 months ago
▲ 4 r/CNC

Multiple setup sanity check

Hey!

I'm doing a bit more advanced stuff now on my 3-axis mill, but I've been having problem turning the piece over and milling both sides. So I am looking for some PROFESSIONAL advice, to aid my self learning process.

The material is a 200x60x20 AW6061, the vise is a small 50mmx25mm, and I'm using parallels that go up from 14mm in 4mm increments. The raw stock cannot be milled on its side as the vise builds too much height for it to be practical.

- First setup I carve out a reference edges to get it at a predictable position in the vise.
- Second setup I turn the whole thing around and mill the backside, leaving another handle and two small dimples to use as reference for setup 3.
- Setup 3 I turn again and mill away the rest of the material, leaving 0.5mm for the two pieces to stay attached to the "handle".

So what mistakes or extra work am I doing here?

u/diemenschmachine — 5 months ago

Burning out on this design, looking for great ideas

I have been designing a trackball in my head for a while. I ordered the billiard ball and the bearings, and made this CAD design as soon as they arrived. I took apart the optical mouse I planned to use for the project and discovered:

- it doesn't track on the shiny surface of the billiard ball
- the PCB of a mouse is too large to fit in the bottom part of the design.
- the sensor has a LOT of pins, so desoldering and moving it to a breakout board seems like a big project

I have a few options I've been thinking about

- buying a used Logitech mouse with the "darkfield" technology, which supposedly is good at tracking shiny surfaces (unsure if it will work). For example Logitech MX Master 2S
- using old-school mouse rollers (complex mechanical design)
- buying a commercial trackball to reuse the sensor (unsure if it will work, and expensive)

I'm sure there are a ton of solutions I haven't thought of. So to the clever people of Reddit, please help!

u/diemenschmachine — 5 months ago
▲ 0 r/MacOS

Hey!

I've been trying to upgrade from Sonoma for a while now. No luck, I'm getting "failed to personalise" errors. I've downloaded the installer and ran it manually, no luck.

I've booted into rescue mode and tried reinstalling Sonoma and I'm getting the exact same problem there.

The logs are extremely spammy, but complain about some missing /var/mobile directory (from the top of my head).

Is there some repair procedure? Some way to get more information of what is wrong?

God I miss Linux.

reddit.com
u/diemenschmachine — 5 months ago
▲ 332 r/keyboards+3 crossposts

This is a Teleguide, or rather it was a Teleguide; a complete flop of a project from the Swedish state telecom operator, released in 1991. They pushed around 10,000 units and a lot of them still sit in storage in unopened boxes around the country, so I got this one for myself, new in unbroken packaging with styrofoam and spiders and everything.

Inside it sits a couple of Intel P8031AH microcontrollers, one for the card reader and one for the main program which allowed you to bet on horses, order pizza, keep a phone book, and call your enemies. Those are now depowered and replaced with a Raspberry Pi 5. The godawful keyboard was replaced with a really nice [EV63 Hall Effect keyboard](https://iqunix.com/products/iqunix-ev63-hall-effect-keyboard), sponsored by IQUNIX after seeing my [previous article](https://www.reddit.com/r/retrocomputing/comments/1rrpyiw/how\_do\_i\_turn\_this\_thing\_brown/).

The goal of this project was to turn this machine from an interior decorative detail into a gaming machine, and to do that I needed to somehow get the monochrome 10" CRT working with the Raspberry Pi. The monitor does not follow any standard composite or VGA mode; instead it runs at roughly 18.75 kHz horizontal and ~57 Hz vertical sync, which is just far enough from standard timings to be annoying.

After a lot (and I truly mean a lot) of trial and error I managed to get a prototype working with a Raspberry Pi 3. That prototype used the Broadcom VC4 GPU’s DPI (parallel RGB) output. To reduce the number of GPIO pins I implemented a software LUT in the driver that mixed RGB into grayscale, and then output that grayscale value on all three channels, and then only muxing a single channel to GPIO pins using a device tree overlay; so 8 bits in total.

That approach worked, but it relied on behavior in the VC4 pipeline that doesn’t carry over to the Raspberry Pi 5.

The next step of the project was to move to a Raspberry Pi 5, mainly for performance. The problem is that the VC6 pipeline doesn’t expose the same LUT mechanism in a usable way, so the grayscale conversion had to move out of the driver and into hardware.

The new PCB uses a 16 bit dac; 5 bits red, 6 bits green, and 5 bits blue. This mode leaves the PCM pins available for use with an audio DAC, and a few pins for an input or output device, such as a joystick.

You can find the [Kicad schematics here](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1b4ZBXvEhbKEOGUg36lYMHon5TDy6n9KJ/view?usp=sharing).

The solution I ended up with was to treat the Pi as a proper RGB source and build an external analog front-end:

  • Each color channel is converted to an analog voltage using a resistor DAC

  • The three channels are resistively summed into a luma (Y) signal

  • The result is AC-coupled and buffered using an NPN emitter follower before being injected into the CRT circuitry

This turned out to be much more stable than the original prototype. The key issue is that the resistor DAC has a relatively high output impedance, and the CRT input is not an ideal high-impedance load. Without buffering, the voltage level shifts depending on what the CRT circuitry is doing. The emitter follower isolates the DAC from that load and stabilizes the signal.

The injection points are:

  • Luma (intensity) is injected at the wiper of the brightness control potentiometer

  • Sync is injected directly into the sync input node after disconnecting the original video source

For sync I used a simple diode combiner:

  • HSYNC and VSYNC from the Pi are OR’d together using two diodes

  • The resulting composite sync is fed into the CRT sync input

This works because the monitor expects a negative-going composite sync signal rather than full composite video.

At this point I ran into a new problem. I designed the board around RGB565 (5/6/5 bits) to reduce GPIO usage and leave pins free for things like audio and input devices. However, there was no straightforward way (that I could find) to get the Raspberry Pi 5 to actually output RGB565 over DPI.

The workaround was to patch the kernel driver to add support for this mode, and then provide a matching device tree overlay to configure the GPIO interface. Slightly painful, but it works.

You can access the [kernel driver patch here](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HCAgP8rILkHzMR\_37rmhemRFdOMo2rYg/view?usp=sharing).

And now I can finally play games on this thing.

u/diemenschmachine — 5 months ago