Stumbled into my second Boogie

Stumbled into my second Boogie

Years ago I had a DC-3 combo that I always regretted selling, but I couldn’t really justify keeping. I’m strictly a hobbyist at this point and honestly a solid state amp that made decent noises at reasonable volumes made more sense for me.

But this Mark III combo popped up on FB marketplace this afternoon for $250 and I couldn’t let it go by for that price. It’s dirty but in decent shape, and it powers on, but beyond that, I have yet to find out.

Suggestions? Clean and refurb? Keep it? Flip it?

EDIT: For those who were asking, looks like it’s a Blue Stripe model. Apparently that had the most bright/aggressive lead channel of all? Pretty curious to hear what this thing sounds like.

https://imgur.com/a/Zpc9HJ0

u/doctor_klopek — 5 days ago

Suddenly my Flashforge ADM5 Pro won’t print cleanly

I’ve been using Tinmorry PETG-CF with great success until just a couple days ago when it started blobbing and dragging the first layer.

So far I’ve run it through the calibration/leveling and vibration routines, swapped the nozzle to a new/clean one, and dried the filament for 10+ hours. Same result using Orca Slicer and FlashPrint.

What a bummer. Nothing has changed with the slicer settings I’ve been using.

EDIT: Dirty plate seems to be the culprit, don’t know how that happened. A thorough wipe down with a fresh shop towel and IPA seems to have fixed it: https://www.reddit.com/r/FlashForge/s/vhq72Jekio

u/doctor_klopek — 24 days ago

Normal for seller's settlement statement not to show buyer's loan origination fees?

We are closing on the sale of our previous home tomorrow, and just received our copy of the settlement statement last night. There's one aspect that I'm finding confusing.

As context, our contract includes a provision that we (the seller) pay up to $4800 toward closing costs for the buyer. I considered the "up to" part of this to be largely theoretical, as I assumed based on both prior experience as well as online closing cost calculator that the buyer's closing costs would be well north of that, so we'd be rightly paying the full $4800 to them.

However, in the settlement statement, all of the items in the "Debit" column for the buyer (excluding the sale price of the home itself) only total around $3000, but the line item for our seller credit still shows us paying out the full $4800 to them.

I was starting to question this (and wondering how their closing costs could be so low) when I realized that the settlement statement (or at least, our copy of it) does not include their loan origination fees at all. It has sections for property tax adjustments, HOA fees, recording fees, and title/escrow charges, but nothing for the origination fees.

Is it normal that I don't have visibility on the buyer's loan origination fees (that seems reasonable), and that as a consequence, I am essentially blind to the full total of their closing costs (that seems less reasonable, when I'm committed to pay up to a certain portion of those closing costs)?

EDIT: Appreciate all the informative replies! Totally understand that in practice, the buyer is never going to leave that money on the table; we were fully expecting to pay the full $4800 amount when we agreed to it. As stated in some of my replies, I was mostly just curious at the contract structure that suggests our credit amount is contingent on the buyer's closing costs being above a certain amount, and then our documentation failing to show the buyer's closing costs. But I get that it's typical practice and completely understand that it doesn't impact anything in reality.

Also, I love reddit, never change - gotta appreciate the drive-by downvotes for asking a question about a topic I was curious about and that wasn't easily answered by googling.

reddit.com
u/doctor_klopek — 1 month ago
▲ 2 r/DMV

Buying a car with a Louisiana title...in Mississippi. Does it require notarization?

Hope this isn't too convoluted, I'll try to break it into simple bullet points. Any help is appreciated.

* I am located in Mississippi
* I am looking at purchasing a used car that is also currently in Mississippi
* When I looked at the car, I noticed it had a Louisiana plate, and the seller confirmed it's currently titled in Louisiana, in his name
* I commented that I was under the impression that Louisiana required notarization of title transfers, based on a used car purchase I made in Louisiana 10 or 15 years ago
* The seller wasn't sure about the requirement but didn't *think* a notary would be required to complete the title transfer

Now, as best I can figure, I don't think my MS DMV/tax assessor's office will care -- I've never needed anything other than a signed title and bill of sale to register a used car. I'm going to call Monday to verify this.

I mentioned I previously bought a used car in Louisiana and we had to meet with a notary to have the title transfer signatures notarized. Is this only because the sale occurred in the state of Louisiana? Does it matter that this current transaction will take place in Mississippi?

And lastly, if the seller doesn't care, and my DMV/Tax office doesn't care, should I care about notarization? I don't want it to turn into a mess for the seller even if he doesn't *believe* he needs to have the title transfer notarized. On the other hand, I'm not sure why Louisiana would require it if he's selling the car out of state and it's going to be registered in MS.

Any advice?

reddit.com
u/doctor_klopek — 1 month ago

Buying a car with a Louisiana title...in Mississippi. Does it require notarization?

Hope this isn't too convoluted, I'll try to break it into simple bullet points. Any help is appreciated.

  • I am located in Mississippi
  • I am looking at purchasing a used car that is also currently in Mississippi
  • When I looked at the car, I noticed it had a Louisiana plate, and the seller confirmed it's currently titled in Louisiana, in his name
  • I commented that I was under the impression that Louisiana required notarization of title transfers, based on a used car purchase I made in Louisiana 10 or 15 years ago
  • The seller wasn't sure about the requirement but didn't think a notary would be required to complete the title transfer

Now, as best I can figure, I don't think my MS DMV/tax assessor's office will care -- I've never needed anything other than a signed title and bill of sale to register a used car. I'm going to call Monday to verify this.

I mentioned I previously bought a used car in Louisiana and we had to meet with a notary to have the title transfer signatures notarized. Is this only because the sale occurred in the state of Louisiana? Does it matter that this current transaction will take place in Mississippi?

And lastly, if the seller doesn't care, and my DMV/Tax office doesn't care, should I care about notarization? I don't want it to turn into a mess for the seller even if he doesn't believe he needs to have the title transfer notarized. On the other hand, I'm not sure why Louisiana would require it if he's selling the car out of state and it's going to be registered in MS.

Any advice?

reddit.com
u/doctor_klopek — 1 month ago
▲ 26 r/ManyBaggers+1 crossposts

Next bag after Mystery Ranch Urban Assault 21?

tldr; I really like certain things about my Mystery Ranch UA 21 but there are many things I don't; looking for suggestions for my next bag.

Background: I have gone through, in some order, an Osprey Comet, a Thule Enroute Triumph 2, a GoRuck GR1 21l, and most recently a Mystery Ranch Urban Assault 21. Things I like about it:

  • Slim/sleek exterior design with unfussy appearance and tall/narrow dimensions
  • Y-zip is great for quick access via the top or full access layed open
  • Size is pretty good, 20-25l seems to be about the right range for my daily bag
  • Construction is solid but not so heavy/rough like the GoRuck
  • Comfy to carry when not overloaded too much

Now, what I am looking for improvement on and the reason for this post:

  • Almost no internal organization; just the top flap pocket and two internal mesh zip pockets, so there's nothing to keep larger items in place.
  • I use Maxpedition and Spec-Ops organizer pouches to help keep smaller stuff together, but since there are no cinch straps, molle webbing, or anything, it all just sinks down and bunches up at the bottom of the bag.
  • Not much structure, either; the bag won't stand up at all and just wants to slump over. This is apparent as well when it's packed with a heavier load and the comfort really starts to suffer.
  • The combination of large items moving around and all bunching up at the bottom and the lack of structure in the bag makes removing or reinserting a laptop unnecessarily difficult; I often end up fully opening the Y-zip and removing a few bulky items just so I can slip the laptop back into its sleeve.

I still like the bag a lot overall, but with all the combined knowledge here I figured it was worth soliciting suggestions for a bag that might retain the things I like most about the MR UA 21 but address some or all of its weaknesses.

Open to all thoughts, comments, and feedback! Thanks.

u/doctor_klopek — 2 months ago
▲ 43 r/MrRogersNeighborhood+1 crossposts

Full episodes removed from misterrogers.org?

We have been watching full episodes from misterrogers.org using the xml sitemap so kindly provided by commenters in this subreddit.

However, sometime within the last few days the sitemap of episodes is now blank: https://www.misterrogers.org/video-episodes-sitemap.xml

And sure enough, if I go back to reload any episodes we've previously watched, the misterrogers.org website returns a 404. The links to episode playlists forward to their Youtube channel, which only has a handful of full episodes available.

What a bummer - this was a fantastic resource and it was so great to have such a treasure trove of content. I suppose I should have downloaded them all before it went away, but such is hindsight.

reddit.com
u/doctor_klopek — 2 months ago
▲ 2 r/arrma

2 extra small pins in Grom metal axle kit?

EDIT: After many replies here and elsewhere, the consensus is that these are spare pins for front CVD rebuilds. In my case, not needed, but nice to include (just wish they'd include them on the parts list).

**********

New owner of a couple Typhon Groms. My son busted a CVD joint on the first drive so I ordered the ARRMA metal axle kit (ARA311198).

I had no issues installing it but I found it came with 2 small pins that had no obvious use. They are a bit smaller than the 4 drive pins for the hexes/wheels.

ARRMA's site does not list them in the included parts nor does it show them in the photo for ARA311198: https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/metal-axle-and-hex-set-grom/ARA311198.html

However, while Amain Hobbies' page for ARA311198 also doesn't list them in the included parts, the photo does show the 2 extra small pins: https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-metal-axle-hex-set-grom-ara311198/p1533817

Does anyone know what these 2 small pins are for?

u/doctor_klopek — 3 months ago

2 extra small pins in Grom metal axle kit?

EDIT: After many replies here and elsewhere, the consensus is that these are spare pins for front CVD rebuilds. In my case, not needed, but nice to include (just wish they'd include them on the parts list).

**********

New owner of a couple Typhon Groms. My son busted a CVD joint on the first drive so I ordered the ARRMA metal axle kit (ARA311198).

I had no issues installing it but I found it came with 2 small pins that had no obvious use. They are a bit smaller than the 4 drive pins for the hexes/wheels.

ARRMA's site does not list them in the included parts nor does it show them in the photo for ARA311198: https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/metal-axle-and-hex-set-grom/ARA311198.html

However, while Amain Hobbies' page for ARA311198 also doesn't list them in the included parts, the photo does show the 2 extra small pins: https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-metal-axle-hex-set-grom-ara311198/p1533817

Does anyone know what these 2 small pins are for?

u/doctor_klopek — 3 months ago

Hi, I recently got an Apple Ultra 2 Watch and am trying to add it to my Verizon Prepaid account. From what I can see, this should be a $10/month plan.

When I attempt to add it online, I can select the "Bring my own device" option and it tells me the IMEI is good. Then after I select the "Share a number" plan, it tells me I have to select the phone/line I intend to add it to. Again I select "Bring my own device" since I already have a phone and don't intend to purchase a new one.

However, after I enter the IMEI of the phone, it asks for the ICCID of the SIM card, which I enter - and then it tells me the SIM card is already in use.

Well, yes, of course it's in use. It's in my phone right now, and I'm an active subscriber of Verizon Prepaid.

Am I doing something wrong with the online signup for a prepaid smartwatch plan, or is something screwed up with the workflow of the signup process?

reddit.com
u/doctor_klopek — 4 months ago