u/garylv426

Hi, 60M here, usually running 10-20k per week when fully fit.

I had a bad fall over a raised mainhole cover at the start of May, one of those where you spend 4 or 5 big steps trying to get your balance back before hitting the ground HARD. Multiple grazes, bruised ribs or torn intercostal not sure which, and a groin strain; left side Pectineus or Adductor. Props to the guy who came out of his house to offer me water and towels to mop the blood, there are still good people in the world; but I digress.

Having not had blunt trauma injuries for years (desk job haha) I am shocked how long the grazes and bumps have taken to start healing properly, truly the body's healing capacity goes off a cliff in later years. Six weeks later I'm still sore under my ribs on one side and the graze on my knee just wont grow anything other than scab. When I was a kid, I'm sure I remember clearing up scabby knees in a week or less....

Anyway, I've tried to restart some gentle 5k's three times now and the groin problem keeps coming back a day or two after the run. I get to the point where I can walk, even hike 5-10k without noticing any tightness or pain, so I think it's time for a trial run and then bang, I'm set back weeks. This is running at a gentle 7 min/k.

What are proven ways to get out of this situation? How can I know when it's safe to start running again if I feel no pain (other than perhaps a little 'tightness') when running but i'm then sore again within 24 hours.

It's so frustrating; I really need my running as it's the only thing that has helped my mental state these last few years.

As per the title? They dont seem to store any settings such as regen and I pedal, the seats are manual, so what is the point of using them on the Air trim?

New EV3, collected from dealer on Thursday. Worked fine 100% first two days of ownership and 100 odd miles.

Today, around 75% of the time you get in and it wont engage forward or reverse, just drops into neutral after a few attempts. Sometimes the red battery symbol stays lit, other times the orange key symbol stays on for a long period, other times both are shown.

Foot on brake, selecting drive and nothing at all happens.

Switch off, shut down and walk away for a minute or two sometimes fixes the issue. Sometimes it's enough to switch off, get out and immediately get back in and it works. Happens with either key.

I just cannot find a common factor; as a programmer this vexes me as I am used to using logic to figure out bugs but this seems random.

Wondered if anybody here has experienced this sort of thing before I contact the dealer on Monday.

I've had this kicking around in my head for a while now and it feels as though it makes sense but I'd like a second opinion as it just sounds a bit too easy?

Looking to finish work next March at 61.5. Full SP due at 67 and wife's full SP due at 68. Currently holding £375k in DC pensions and £80k in ISAs. Estimated required outgoings roughly £25-30k pa (we arent big spenders and have no debt).

Assumption: Once I reach 67, my personal allowance will be used up entirely by the state pension. If my allowance is zero then every penny of drawdown will be taxable. The need is to bridge 5.5 years to my pension and then 1 year to my wife's by which time both our pensions should makeup at least 80% of our outgoings.

Proposal: Draw £18k in tax free lump sum each year, crystalizing the other £54k into drawdown account. Drop the cash into easy access ISA and live off that plus £12k drawdown from existing ISAs for the year. Rinse and repeat 5 times.

At state pension age when the tax free slice of the pie has largely been eroded, live off state pensions and take monthly from the drawdown account paying tax on the (smaller) drawdown sums.

This would mean 5-6 years paying zero tax and then only paying tax on the drawdowns; so ultimately only paying tax on £4-6k per year assuming a £24k state pension income. Ignoring inflation and other possible allowance and tax changes for the sake of keeping the numbers simple.

What am I missing here; there must be something as it feels too clean? Can I actually take multiple tax free lump sums in this fashion without drawing down the crystalized remainder?

Can somebody with a UK Air tell me what can be controlled from the app please? I'm coming from a Tesla background so I'm used to full live control over charging and scheduling plus pre heating in winter.

I'm also wondering if the driving mode (evo, normal, sport etc) is remembered between drives or is it like the ADAS crap and has to be set every time you power up the car?

Also, are the door handles prone to freezing shut in winter, like my Tesla ones did several times this year? Also the Tesla windows would freeze in place meaning you couldnt open the door anyway because they are rimless.

Not dissing the Tesla as I do like it a lot, but we need to move from 2 cars to 1 soon and the EV3 looks like a good compromise for two soon-to-be retirees!