I'm having an engine swap done on a 2012 Acura TSX (swapping in a JDM K24A for my stock K24Z3 because I lost all compression in 1 cylinder). Assuming the head is OK, do they have much value? From a quick search on EBay, looks like they can go for around $200-300 or so. Wondering if it's worthwhile to save the old head and sell it, and if so, where are good forums or places to advertise.
I'm helping my bro and sis-in-law find a new car. They're an active family (skiing, mountain biking, team sports) with 1 kid in college and 2 in middle school in the SF Bay Area. They already have an AWD Sienna. They don't have a dog, but plan to get one (up to 50 lbs.) Bro works remote, sis commutes to work 32 mi. (roundtrip). Their budget is $40K or so. They tend to keep vehicles long-term, so resale value is not a top priority.
Really the best type of vehicle for them would be a station wagon, because it has the room they need with better mileage than a crossover or SUV, but there's really none on the market, so crossover it is. I think they should get a smaller vehicle, because they already have a van when they need to haul lots of people and stuff.
I'm trying to encourage them to get an EV, I think a Chevy Equinox EV ($30-35K, 285 range AWD, 319 mi FWD) or Subaru Trailseeker / Toyota BZ Woodland ($40/45K, 281 mi. range) would fit their needs. (Any other EV's worth considering?)
However, they're more inclined to get a hybrid. Here's ones I would put on the short list:
The CX-50 has worse MPG, but $10K less (no "Toyota Tax"). All of these vehicles have CVT's which are an abomination in my opinion, but Toyota's eCVT on their hybrids is the least-worst CVT.
The CRV is a bit cheaper than the RAV4, but MPG is worse and Honda's quality has gone downhill lately.
The RAV4 is not as roomy as the Crown or CX-50, but has the best gas mileage. The plug-in hybrid has all-electric range of up to 54 miles, so sis could commute on all-electric, so that seems like the best choice.
I still think an EV is the best thing for them, since they already have the ICE minivan.
I'm planning an install with two 48V Emporia Pros running off one 60A breaker (using the load balancing feature of course). These will be installed on either side of a 18' garage door. The cable run to the charger closest to the panel is about 6', and the run to the farther charger is about 25-30'.
According to this chart, #6 on 48A is good for a run up to 150'. The largest wire an Emporia Pro can accept is #6.
In this situation, would it be better to run #4 to a junction box and then two #6's to each charger, or just run two #6's from the panel to each charger?
I'm planning an install with two 48V Emporia Pros running off one 60A breaker (using the load balancing feature of course). These will be installed on either side of a 18' garage door. The cable run to the charger closest to the panel is about 6', and the run to the farther charger is about 25-30'.
According to this chart, #6 on 48A is good for a run up to 150'. The largest wire an Emporia Pro can accept is #6.
In this situation, would it be better to run #4 to a junction box and then two #6's to each charger, or just run two #6's from the panel to each charger?
Is $260/day a normal rate to store a vehicle at a body shop? It was there for 8 days and the total billed to the insurance company is $2,080, or $260/day. This is in the San Francisco Bay Area, which is a VHCOL area, but it still seems high.
Do insurance companies typically pay these charges in full, or is it like hospitals where they charge $100 for a band-aid but expect to ultimately get paid $0.25 for it by insurance?
I want to install an EV charger about 45" above grade on the front side of my garage. However, the gas service line comes up from the ground and makes a jog around the corner to the gas meter in the side yard. I assume the code restricts how close you can put an EV charger to a gas line. Does anyone know what the distance is?
I am looking at installing a setup with two load balancing 48v chargers on one 60A breaker. The Emporia Pro fits the bill, but I'm not enthused about the fact that the load management is over wifi.
I vastly prefer the design of the Wallbox Pulsar Plus because it uses a hardwired ethernet cable between the chargers for load balancing rather than a wireless connection. However the NEMA version of the charger appears to be vaporware, and from what I've read so far, Wallbox's customer support is lacking to nonexistent, and company is circling the drain, so even if the NEMA versions materialize, I'm reluctant to go with that brand.
Are there any other alternatives?
I need to get a car soonish to replace a car that was totaled. I'm looking at the Equinox EV FWD LT with the comfort package (heated seats are a mandatory feature for me). I've been getting quotes from dealers, and so far they're in the range of $30-31K before taxes/fees (including the $1,250 lease conquest offer and $500 employer discount).
In my area, used, low mileage (8,000-20,000 mi.) and comparably equipped '24 and '25 models go for around $25K - 26K (before taxes and fees), so about a $5,000 difference. Not as much depreciation as I was hoping for, but current gas prices have a lot to do with that.
There's no "right" answer, ultimately it's a personal financial decision as to whether paying $5,000 more for a new one is worth it, but I was wondering if others have made this choice, what you ended up doing, and what your rationale was.
Interestingly, I checked with my insurance company, and they said my insurance premium will increase $276/yr to add a '25 onto my policy, and a '26 would cost $204/yr to add. I thought it would be the other way around, but they explained that new models can be cheaper to insure sometimes because spare parts availability is better.
Are there any significant changes between '24, '25, and '26 models to be aware of? Was there any change in the charging port type?
I know that '26 models don't have Android Auto, and you are forced to pay a subscription fee if you want to continue using Google Maps in the built-in Android OS after the free trial ends. Is that the case for '24 and '25 models as well?
I want to get an EV, and decided that the Bolt will fit my needs, but the market is nuts! I've been looking for about a month, and I first saw used 2017-2021 Bolt EV's with decently low mileage (10-60K) going for about $10-13K, or more like $15-18K for newer ones (2021-2023).
Now, it's just nuts - all of the early 2017-2020 Bolt EV's are more like $15-17K, even with high mileage (100K or more), and people asking $15K+ for ones with lemon law branded titles. Sellers are asking as much as the low to mid 20's for 2022-2023 EV's and EUV's, which is crazy, because you might as well spend a few thousand more and get a new 2027 EUV and get a full warranty, faster charging, etc.
(These are SF Bay Area, prices, a very high cost of living area, higher real estate costs for the dealers, and one of the strongest EV markets in the country, so those are obvious factors at play.)
GM has a few small incentives on the 2027 Bolt (Costco member discount, military appreciation, etc.) but nothing like the cash on the hood they're putting on Equinox EV's, which can start in the high 20's for the stripped-down models. Different class of vehicle of course, but it kind of pushes the scales toward the Equinox since GM isn't going to abandon its production after 18 months, unlike the Bolt.
My 2012 wagon suffered a catastrophic engine failure, so I'm going to have an engine swap done. A few local suppliers have JDM K24A's in stock. I've asked about K24Z3's, but they're telling me that there's no such thing as a JDM K24Z3 because that's a US designation, and all the JDM motors are K24A.First of all, is that true? Will there be any compatibility issues with the ECU, wiring harness, external engine accessories (alternator, A/C compressor, etc.)?
I'm hoping to find some reliable information from someone who's done one of these swaps, or from a reliable source. I've googled around for information but haven't found anything comprehensive or trustworthy. I've read that there's some casting numbers on the head of the engine that can shed some light on it, such as the compression ratio, what kind of VTEC it has (2 lobe cams vs. 3 lobe cams, whether it has VTEC on the intake and/or exhaust, etc.), but I haven't found a source of comprehensive information.
From what I gather so far, when you do one of these swaps, basically the JDM engine needs to be taken down to the long block, and all of the external parts including the water jacket, intake manifold, fuel rail, wiring harness, etc. need to be transferred from the original engine onto the new one. I gather some gaskets and miscellaneous parts will be needed - has anyone done one of these swaps and have a parts list?
Secondly, while the engine is out, what parts should be replaced as a precautionary/prophylactic measure? For example should any sensors be replaced that are very difficult to reach with the engine installed, because now would be the time to do it? Should a new starter be installed? An OEM starter runs $400 (remanufactured) to $550 (new). Seems prudent to install one, but do starters go out a lot on these cars? I have two, and have never had a starter issue (knock on wood).
Does the K24A run on regular octane (versus the 91 octane required by the K24Z3?) I saw this on an Accord forum. That makes me wonder if my TSX ECU is going to be compatible with the K24A engine, because according to this, the K24A has 9.7:1 compression, 160 hp, and 161 ft-lb torque whereas the K24Z3 has 10.5:1 compression, 190hp and 162 ft-lb torque.
Will my ECU be running in a quasi-limp mode because it detects lower octane gas and compression? But if my ECU can deal with it, I'm fine with not having to pay for premium fuel any more given today's gas prices!
I was having misfire problems with my '12 wagon as detailed in this thread. I then did a compression test with a simple compression gauge, and it turns out I have 0 psi compression in my #1cylinder, but the others all have between 180-185 psi so they are within spec.
I'd like to try a leak-down compression test to see if the problem lies in my cylinder head or piston/rings. However, all the tutorials I've been able to find involve taking the valve cover off. Is there a way to do this with the valve cover on?
However, given that I have 0 compression in cylinder 1, will a leak-down test even be able to pinpoint (or at least get a good estimation) if the leak is happening in the cylinder head versus the piston rings?
My '12 wagon suddenly started misfiring ,throwing codes for random misfire, cylinder 1 misfire, and cylinder 2 misfire, and developed a horrible clacking sound (as detailed in this thread). I would like to do a compression test, but the service manual calls for getting the engine up to operating temperature first. The engine is running really bad, so I'm afraid I'll damage it worse by running it for 5 minutes to get it warmed up. Is there any alternate way to check the compression?
I want to check the compression to see if there is a variance between cylinders - if there is, that would maybe suggest the problem is in the head (burnt valve, worn-out cam, VTC problem, timing chain problem) in which case I could have that repaired or install a remanufactured head. But if all of the cylinders have roughly equal compression, then most likely the problem is rod knock...
I have a used 2012 wagon that I bought two years ago with 119K miles on it. I bought it from an Acura dealer that provided a limited 3 month powertrain warranty. The first week I owned it, I noticed the rattle on cold start problem, and the dealer replaced the VTC actuator under warranty. The engine air filter had been previously replaced at 117K miles, I changed the coolant and spark plugs at 120K miles, and have done oil changes with Mobil1 0w20 every 3,000 miles (overkill, I know), and it's been running great - never had any engine issues. The car has 132K miles on it now. (When I changed the spark plugs at 120K miles, I noticed that cylinders 1, 2, and 4 had the original TEK coil packs, and cylinder #3 had a Delphi coil pack, so some previous owner must have replaced that one.)
One day during normal around town-driving, without any warning, the engine suddenly started shaking and running rough, it lost power, and the CEL light came on. I could smell unburnt fuel in the exhaust. I hooked up an OBD reader, and it threw the P300 (random misfire), P301 (Cyl #1 misfire), and P302 (Cyl #2 misfire) codes. I had it towed home, and replaced all four spark plugs (NGK ILZKR7B-11S) and coil packs (Denso 6732319). The old spark plugs all looked fine (as they should, since they only had 12K miles on them)
Fired it back up, and the same problem, the car didn't want to start, runs very rough, unburnt fuel smell, same codes. The air filter looks fine, I could not see any loose/cracked vacuum hoses, nothing looks wrong under the hood. Engine oil level is fine.
Any idea of other possible causes of this problem? From Googling, it looks like vacuum leaks, EGR valves, MAF sensors, and 02 sensors can be culprits for misfires. But based on the horrible clacking sound, has something is going haywire in the valve train?
Here's some videos of the engine starting up and running (after replacing the coil packs and spark plugs)
