u/lemlurker

Subreddit open for takeover by the moderators and I am both experienced and happy to help- I own a prusa XL myself!

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Im working on a conversion of an MGB GT and want to experiment with packing the battery- the dimentions available online are very limited and unclear what they do or do not contain.

as such I have 3d scanned (and then modelled) a battery module- both to use as a 3d reference but also to enable printing of a reference battery that will way much less whilst having the rtight mounting points and stuff.

Im printing more PLA than usual and running in to issues with heatcreep induced jamming on my XL- the issue is my old way of solving these from my MK3 was: Fire.

heat the tube up to red hot and char out the blockage from the heatbreak. this worked due to the solid brass nozzles and the split design. now it doesnt. for starters the nozzle pops off the hetbreak as its heat pressed in and second the nozzle is so deep its near impossible to remove the char- and finally- and possibly worse- the OrbX nozzles (and the other CHT style) use a heat pressed nozzle forward closure to compolete the split design and that also pops out- basically disassembling the very expensive nozzle when yyou try and blast it out.

so then what is everyones solution to clearing blockages in these new nozzle designs?

By a series if events I've ended up with two motors, both suboptimum but capable.

The first is the rear drive motor from a baojun E300 Plus.

It's 40kw peak, 20kw sustained, encoded via a resolver.

I've finally removed it from the gearbox and I'll need to machine a new top cover as the forwards closure formed part of the gearbox.

Second is the motor from a smiths Edison, 90kw peak induction, 25kw sustained, water cooled.

It's replacing a 1.8L B series engine producing 96hp.

I'm fine with a power drop but am worried the 56hp will be very underwhelming.

I've found two controllers from Kelly that can run both these motors, either KHS or BLDC or KHA for the induction-with a slight power drop.

I'll need to split the pack up to get the 209v max for the Edison motor but I'm struggling (a bit) to pack the full Zoe pack in one place anyways so fitting half fore and aft at a 180v would actually be preferable.

What are people's thoughts? Both involve a £800 odd investment to get it running and I'd rather not do it twice if I decide I made the wrong choice!

Let me know if there's any more involved I can provide!

I have a 40kw pmsm in need of an inverter, I have come across someone selling SEMIKRON GD06-W12CI inverters for a pretty great price. There's the barest bones of documentation available but I want to know if anyone else has used a semikron controller and what it entailed

I'm working on an EV conversion but I'm pretty sure I can't use it's original driver due to the control plug being entirely undocumented. As a result I am looking for different driver options.

I've found a Kelly controller 40kw unit which looks compatible on the basis of being the right motor type however it only provides 3 options for encoding.

- hall sensors

-sin/cosin sensors

-ABZ encoders

Model varent example: KHS36020I

Is there one of these sensing standards that matches the rotary transformer encoding my motor claims to have: tz154x140

Or am I SOL and need to install my own hall sensors!

I have a motor from an Smiths Edison ford transit conversion, before I write it off entirely what options exist to drive it? It's 90kw peak,25 sustained. Plug (yes sungular- it uses a plugged setup) consists of 3 large pins and 3 small ones. Is there a viable (sub £1000) option to drive it? Can you drive it with a weaker (say 40kw) driver? I'm pretty sure you can't source original inverters these days since it's from 2010

Does anyone know if there is a GCODE for adjusting the tool offset on the XL? Since my nozzles are fairly worn out and gunky the pin offset calibration isnt very good resulting in colour casts around my part. ive been printing little single tower parts to dial in the offset tool by tool but it would be so much easier if i could adjust the tool offset on the fly during the print with a custom GCODE. as it stands I cant even adjust it during a print so i need to let the single test piece print first then adjust.