Would two bolts in slotted steel profiles be enough for a sim rig wheelbase/pedal mount?

I’m designing a steel profile sim rig for myself, and I’m trying to figure out if my adjustable mounting idea is structurally sound.

image: https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fi.redd.it%2F9rdzk1lntpah1.png

I am thinking to make it with square/rectangular steel profiles with 4mm or 5mm wall thickness. For adjustability, I’m planning to laser-cut long slots in the places where the reference image shows rectangular profiles with long slots/grooves/rails running along the length of each profile where i need height and angle adjustability. These grooves are visible on the side faces of the profiles and are used as adjustment channels for bolts running through them. This design would allow me to rotate the profiles and fasten the bolts (it would be like, one bolt is bit higher and the other bolt a bit lower when angle adjusted than what is currently shown in the image) - that way i would also gain angle adjustability. The red arrows point to the bolt locations where the adjustable parts are fastened through these slot/groove channels.

The main idea is:

  1. The wheelbase plate would be height and angle adjustable using slotted steel profiles.
  2. The pedal plate would also be height and angle adjustable.

My concern is whether two bolts are actually enough for the wheelbase and pedals, especially with the forces from a stronger wheelbase and heavy braking.

I’m not too worried about the bolts snapping. I’m more worried about things like:

  • The joint slipping in the slots over time.
  • The profile rotating around the bolts.
  • The steel wall deforming or crushing when tightened.
  • The slots elongating.
  • The wheelbase flexing under force feedback.
  • The pedal plate moving under braking force.

Would two M8/M10 bolts in slotted steel profiles be enough for this kind of adjustable joint?

I’m trying to keep the rig adjustable, but I don’t want the wheelbase or pedals to flex/slip once everything is tightened down.

I don't want to use pre-drilled holes for this, as I would like to keep the finer angle/height adjustment.

If you have better (and not too expensive) alternative ideas how to have both fine height and angle adjustability, please let me know.

Thank you in advance, much appreciated!

edit: i am in Europe (I am adding this as per this sub rules)

reddit.com
u/masky0077 — 5 days ago
▲ 4 r/SimRacingHardware+2 crossposts

Would two bolts in slotted steel profiles be enough for a sim rig wheelbase/pedal mount?

I’m designing a steel profile sim rig for myself, and I’m trying to figure out if my adjustable mounting idea is structurally sound.

I am thinking to make it with square/rectangular steel profiles with 4mm or 5mm wall thickness. For adjustability, I’m planning to laser-cut long slots in the places where the reference image shows rectangular profiles with long slots/grooves/rails running along the length of each profile where i need height and angle adjustability. These grooves are visible on the side faces of the profiles and are used as adjustment channels for bolts running through them. This design would allow me to rotate the profiles and fasten the bolts (it would be like, one bolt is bit higher and the other bolt a bit lower when angle adjusted than what is currently shown in the image) - that way i would also gain angle adjustability. The red arrows point to the bolt locations where the adjustable parts are fastened through these slot/groove channels.

The main idea is:

  1. The wheelbase plate would be height and angle adjustable using slotted steel profiles.
  2. The pedal plate would also be height and angle adjustable.

My concern is whether two bolts are actually enough for the wheelbase and pedals, especially with the forces from a stronger wheelbase and heavy braking.

I’m not too worried about the bolts snapping. I’m more worried about things like:

  • The joint slipping in the slots over time.
  • The profile rotating around the bolts.
  • The steel wall deforming or crushing when tightened.
  • The slots elongating.
  • The wheelbase flexing under force feedback.
  • The pedal plate moving under braking force.

Would two M8/M10 bolts in slotted steel profiles be enough for this kind of adjustable joint?

I’m trying to keep the rig adjustable, but I don’t want the wheelbase or pedals to flex/slip once everything is tightened down.

I don't want to use pre-drilled holes for this, as I would like to keep the finer angle/height adjustment.

If you have better (and not too expensive) alternative ideas how to have both fine height and angle adjustability, please let me know.

Thank you in advance, much appreciated!

u/masky0077 — 5 days ago

Simagic Availability in Europe sucks! And delivery price is crazy if you offer directly from Simagic.

I searched multiple retail stores in countries across Europe, such as UK, Germany, Switzerland, Bulgaria, Greece... Most countries don't even offer the Simagic 9NM Entry Bundle, UK did, but no stock (only one shop in UK has it and it's more expensive than it goes for).

And the delivery price for shipping directly from Simagic is criminally high (~$300).

Simply because of this i will have go with a different brand like Fanatec or Moza

reddit.com
u/masky0077 — 19 days ago
▲ 5 r/SimRacingHardware+1 crossposts

(Used) Fanatec CSL DD + CSL Elite Steering Wheel McLaren GT3 V2 + Elite Pedals V2 + Custom Rig with Seat - 800 EUR (is this a good deal?)

I am considering buying a used Fanatec sim racing setup for 800 EUR and would like a sanity check (this would be my first simracing gear btw).

The set contains of these items:

  • Fanatec CSL DD QR2 5 Nm - Price (New) 325 EUR
  • Fanatec CSL Elite Steering Wheel McLaren GT3 V2 - I couldn't find this exact wheel new but i think the equivalent today is the CSL GT3 Wheel - price (New) 200 EUR
  • Fanatec CSL Elite Pedals V2 - Price (New) - 315 EUR
  • QR2 Pro Adapter (AliExpress purchase) - Price (New) ~50 EUR
  • QR1 Lite Adapter (this probably came together with the wheel)
  • Custom cockpit/rig with seat

Total (New) price would be - 890 EUR (excluding the cockpit)
The seller is asking 800 EUR for the full setup, including the custom rig and seat.

Additional details from the listing/seller:
The setup has around 50 to 60 hours of use (according to the seller).
The seller says it was assembled a little over a year ago.
The listing date is 24.04.2026.
Warranty is listed as valid until 14.08.2026.

The rig is a custom full cockpit with a seat. The listing says that it has adjustable wheel height and angle, adjustable pedal angle (i assume length as well), the seat can also be moved forwards/backwards. The cockpit sits on wheels/casters (the owner said they should be replaced because they no longer lock). Everything is in fully working condition (base, wheel, pedals) and few minor scratches on the base during assembly (according to the seller).

Honestly, looks like a good deal at first, but then again, is the custom rig/cockpit really worth that much? For 90 EUR more i'd get everything new (minus the cockpit) - which i admit, i don't own neither a cockpit nor a wheel stand.

I need a sanity check before i decide if it's worth it, because i'd have to drive about 160km (one way) just to go check/try the setup.

Thanks!

u/masky0077 — 19 days ago
▲ 1 r/iRacing+1 crossposts

How do you deal with pedal setup/configuration between modern GT cars and manual/heel-toe cars?

For people who drive both modern cars like GT3/GT4 and older manual/rally cars, how do you deal with pedal spacing?

Modern cars make me want the brake positioned mainly for left-foot braking, with the clutch out of the way. But older manual cars make me want the brake and throttle close enough for heel-toe.

Do you use one compromise pedal layout for everything? If yes, how do you space the clutch, brake, and throttle? Or do you physically move the pedals around on the pedal baseplate depending on what car you are driving?

I know that most sim racing games can auto blip even with the older manual cars, but for me that's part of the fun to master the heel-toe technique whilst trail breaking - though, i am torn because I also want to drive modern cars as much as I want to drive the older ones competitively.

If i keep the classical heel-toe position of the pedals, driving a modern car would be such an uncomfortable thing to drive with left (break) and right (gas) foot for an entire race. Or i would have to compromise speed if i have to drive with the right leg only...

reddit.com
u/masky0077 — 24 days ago
▲ 1 r/moza

Is there Moza R5 V3?

Hi,

I found a good deal for a used Moza R5 but it says V2 (is the latest moza V3?) i have seen multiple revisions mentioned when i was researching so i just want to make sure at least what I am getting.

Thanks in advance!

reddit.com
u/masky0077 — 1 month ago

GPT 5.4 feels lobotomized the past couple days or so (even on xHigh)

As the title states i am struggling so much to make simple tasks with it even on xHigh .. feels like it's down on low or medium at best.. it's so WEAK and 5.4 was a freaking work horse!

reddit.com
u/masky0077 — 1 month ago