I think it can group a little tiny bit better, I was shooting unsupported in the rear . I found this rifle has preferred the federal, but it would occasionally get hung up on the flat tip of their center strike round.
Spent the last week getting some new seals for the transmission and not doing anything because it’s been too hot. But back on it again.
Instead of disassembling the entire front suspension, just unbolt the crossmember and grind 4 rivets (2 on each side) Way easier. Then bolt it back together with half inch bolts.
Traded an axle for a 4x4 NP435, guy showed up in another 1st gen
We’ve got full bed sides to replace both sides, but that will happen down the road. Same with putting a larger capacity fuel tank in.
The bed will come off again later to do the sides and deal with the paint on the cab.
Almost done with rust repair. 2 little things left after this.
Just need to finish wire wheeling and painting what’s left, then make all the fuel and brake lines + mount the gas tank before dropping the body back on.
The parts truck gave up the crossmember that goes between the front spring mounts, it was in much better shape, that needs to get cleaned up, drilled out and bolted on.
Also need to replace a rear shackle and all the bushings in the front and rear suspension.
Cab was super smashed and the roof line was rusted through on the driver side, the frame is messed up from the wreck and the rear suspension and axle are all twisted. But we will get more than what we needed from it. The donor cab has a small bit of rust on one side floor pan that the brown cab will be used to repair.
Otherwise the frame and what’s left of the cab will be cut up for scrap.
The brown truck was a nice truck until it got wrecked. Been parked 7 years, it’s giving its 400ci motor, glass and nice complete interior. And some frame cross members. The cab will get removed and scrapped. Minus the good door.
The yellow bed is actually really solid everywhere but above the wheel arches, no big deal. He’s got complete bed sides, so that will be addressed later.
Plus a cool random Dent side we saw at the gas station dropping off the frame. Owner was cool.
He’s got a nice rust free green cab to drop on the frame, and the brown truck has a brand new fuel system, nice inner fender and driver fender, plus a perfect grill. Lots of good parts to reuse or pick from later.
Quick frame refresh before slamming the body back on. ~38 hours into cleaning it up, probably about 10-15 more before the frame is finished.
Rear crossmembers still need ground out and cleaned up.
Gotta clean up the frame, do some rust repair, and a little mechanical work, Then slam the body back on it + shove an engine and transmission in. Not my truck, helping a friend get his going again.
The double Cardan joint in my rear is a little worn out, I believe it’s causing an occasional vibration around 55mph.
I found a whole rear shaft for around 250$. I could repair my old drive shaft for about 65$ to replace the ball socket and all 3 u-joints, but the slip yoke splines would still be worn with 168k miles on them. $250 seems very low for an entire driveline in my experience. And there are even options cheaper than that.